I've have searched the archived and found some really good advice, but still have a question.

I am replacing the whole floor pan on my 65 chevelle hard top. The center floor brace is completely shot. I have found some nice Goodmark 4 piece floor pans with tranny hump and braces included which is exactly what I need.

Removing the floor pan is no problem, hell it's mostly rusted off already. My questions is though do I have to raise the body from the frame in order to replace the brace? I would rather not to since the body bushing bolts are rusted solid, but if I have to I have to.

So what is the best way to replace the center floor pan brace?

http://www.ourphotos.org/floor.jpg

To replace the braces, you will need to raise the body at least 6-10 inches. IN addition to being welded to the floor pan they are also are also welded to the back side of the rocker panel on the sides. They rust out in this spot out as well, usually before you see what you have on the floor.

You'll have to fab a new section of steel if the inside of the rocker is rusted out.

You will have to remove the body bushing bolts. If you break them, it's not unusual. You will have to cut the floor above them (not a big deal since you are cutting the floor out) and put a vise grip on them.

I have helped a friend with his 69, that was not as bad as yours, but not much. Start soaking the body bolts with a good penetrating oil (not WD 40). I use PB Blaster.


Do you have a garage to work in? Do you have a welder ? Are you gonna do the welding?

Thanks for the advice. I have a nice garage, and a new Hobart 135 which I am teaching myself how to weld. I figure now is a good time to learn.

I really should change the body bushings as well so I figure now would be a good time to do it. To raise the body, what does that involve? I assume remove all the body bushing bolts, but anything else have to be removed to do this?

Cool,
I have a Hobart 135 myself. I have the gas to start welding sheetmetal, but I'm still working on getting better. So I'm holding off solid wire.

I have built a Gokart from scrap tubing that isn't too bad.

The only one I have seen was stripped of glass, & front end. He built an elaborate wooden frame to lift the body. But I think if I was gonna do it I would go a simplier route.

You do need to maintain the location of the body mounts. I have seen a couple setups that look like they are feasible.

One used steel tube spacers (approx 6"). I think he closed off the ends with plate and tapped them for the bolt. One end had a bolt coming out and the other end had a nut welded on the backside of the closed end for a bolt.

This was basically and extension of the body bolt.

You still have to evenly lift the body up enough to put the "extension" bolts in.

Or, raise the body using jacks/blocks evenly and run 4x4's across where the front of the body and behind the door are. Make sure you block up the body and not crush the rockers.

Like I said earlier, you may end up needing access to the backside of the Rocker like my friend did. He cut till he got good metal, and then pieced steel of the same thickness. No one will see this area where the cross brace welds to.

Good luck and keep the board posted.

I'm replacing the floor pan braces on my 65' Chevelle. I did not want to raise the body either, but there is no other way to properly do this job. After thinking about it. I decided that some year when I'm done with the car. I want to step into it having confidence the floors are solid. So, I removed the body bushing bolts. Broke a few. So what, just another item on the list to Fix. I used 4 jacks under the car and a hoist at the front of the car. Raised the body slowly each jack at a time. Raise the body high enough to place 4 X 4's across and between the body and the frame. Lowered the body onto the 4x4's. Drill out the spot welds and remove the brace. I had holes in the inner rockers where the supports were. Fabricated a piece and welded it in. Once the braces are in. I'll lower the body onto the frame and replace the floor pans. I found a place that sells full length pans including the toeboard and tranny hump for both the driver and pass. side. I haven't ordered them yet so I'm not sure of the quality. I just bought a Lincoln Pro100 welder from Menards for $320.00. It works good for a flux core welder. When I plan on replacing any body panel I'll convert it to a mig welder so the welds are better.

For the floor pans I was going to use ER70S-6 .024" mig wire and C25 gas.

Any recommendations for what type of wire to weld the braces with? Can I use the same or would I have to go thicker like .030" because the metal is thicker?

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/66n67/hoistFr.jpg http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/66n67/hoistSide.jpg