: DPLF Epoxy Primer, is it any good?
ccarney69 Nov 16th, 04, 8:55 PM I did some research and decided to use DPLF Epoxy primer then K38 surfacer. I have primed my doors, fenders, hood, trunk and all removeable paintable parts. I am now ready to spray the K38 (sprayed dplf 48 hours ago). I Did a search to find out if I needed to scuff the dplf after just 48 hours before appling the K38 (tech sheet says I can recoat anytime up to one week with no sanding). While searching found some old posts that say dplf sucks and is a sub standard product. Now I'm concerned that I'm using some bad stuff. I did not use DX1791 under the dplf.
Will I have any problems with the DPLF on bare metal, I have maintained the 1.2 to 1.5 mills as directed. I have some DX1791 and will use it before the DPLF when I shoot the body this weekend.
ccarney69 Nov 16th, 04, 9:28 PM Also when I spray my K38, what is the maximum time that I can wait between coats? The tech sheet says 2 to 4 coats, minumum 10 to 15 minutes between coats. If I were to give it two coats today could I give it two more coats tomorrow night with out any sanding?
Thanks
a68SS396dood Nov 17th, 04, 3:53 AM You probably would be ok but, to be safe apply it all @ one time. Some materials have strict windows of time / others are more forgiving. JOHN
todd j Nov 17th, 04, 7:23 AM I have used DPLF primer many times and have been very well pleased with the results. I am currently using it on a 1930 Model A that I am restoring. Great product as far as I am concerned. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
baddbob71 Nov 17th, 04, 7:29 AM You can trust the tech sheets on recoat window time. I scuff anything I feel uncomfortable about recoating, a red scotchbrite and a few minutes is no big deal. Although etch primers offer slightly better adhesion, you won't have any problems using the epoxy over sanded bare metal. The only adhesion problems I've seen with epoxy is when the metal is smooth- almost polished. Epoxy needs a slight texture for it's mechanical grip when cured. Also, don't expect that epoxy to be fully cured for at least a couple of weeks, you will notice a difference in hardness after that period of time supporting how long it actually takes for full cure. The epoxy primers are an excellent product offering good adhesion, tough coating, excellent moisture and solvent barriers after full cure, but usually not desired for production woork due to the slow dry time. I like epoxy for restoration type work where speed is not a concern. Bob
ccarney69 Nov 17th, 04, 10:12 AM Thanks,
I sanded all of the bare metal with 80 grit so it should have a good bite. I assume it would not hurt to use the DX1791 under the epoxy that will be sprayed on the body which I will shoot next even though I did not use it under the doors, fenders etc. If I decide to shoot K38 today and want to scuff the epoxy after just 72 hours of being sprayed is that ok? Will there be any disadvantage to just shoot K38 over 72 hour old epoxy without scuffing it? Just want to be sure.
Thanks
sevt_chevelle Nov 17th, 04, 10:34 PM Originally posted by ccarney69:
Also when I spray my K38, what is the maximum time that I can wait between coats? The tech sheet says 2 to 4 coats, minumum 10 to 15 minutes between coats. If I were to give it two coats today could I give it two more coats tomorrow night with out any sanding?
Thanks Well that depends on your gun, your gun setup and spray tech, but should wait til the primer has flashed off. Nomrally 15 mins.
No you can NOT reapply more k38 tomorrow night without sanding. I believe you have up to 1 hr to recoat k36/k38, after that you need to wait atleast 2 hrs and sand.
zachscc Nov 19th, 04, 3:21 AM Try EPX 900 by PPG in the industrail line! Much better and half the price!
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