We're about to shoot the whole car with acrylic urethane primer. (Transtar ez sand)
The final paint is going to be a bc/cc but we want to jamb it out and do the inside of the trunk etc. with enamel at the shop and then take it to a booth for paint. I bought a cheapo siphon gun (Home depot Campbell Housfield)to do the primer and jambs with. Does this sound like a plan? I've never used a spray gun in my life. ANY advice would be most welcome.

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The ongoing saga of the MALIBRUISER 70 SS fake
MALIBRUISER (http://www.motorhead.iwarp.com)

hoffman,

i don't know how youre planning on painting your car, but I usually paint the car in pieces. I paint the body and the jambs all at one time then paint the doors, hood and fenders off the car, then reassemble after painting. This is the only way to get the jambs and the rest of the body to match really good in my opinion.

While you can paint the jambs with a single stage paint, and get a pretty good match, they only way to get it really perfect is to use the same paint on the jambs that you do on the exterior of the car. This is the way most restoration shops do their paint work. Make sure you have everything fitted first, then disassemble the car for painting, noting where all shims are on each door and fender (put in plastic bags and mark where they were), makes reassembly much easier.

Hope this helps.

MIKE

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My 68 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68racer1.jpg)
My Engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68racer2.jpg)

We have the fenders, hood and trunk lid off. The doors work too well to fool with. We debated pulling them off but decided against it. It's going to be a driver so we're not that worried about it being show perfect. Thanks for the advice.

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The ongoing saga of the MALIBRUISER 70 SS fake
MALIBRUISER (http://www.motorhead.iwarp.com)

If it is "just a driver" I wouldn't even think of painting it apart. I would jamb everything and assemble. Then let the shop tape off the jambs when they paint. 3M ,makes a foam rope that is used for this and it really leaves a nice soft edge.

This is NOT for show cars, but for even those super nice drivers it is fine. To assemble painted panels and align them (even if you have pre-aligned) is asking a lot without some chips.

If you do it together, you get the car back from the shop and then install the chrome and do-dads and you are on the road. It is FUN instead of frustrating. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Foam rope huh? I'll have to look for it. We know a guy who is going to let us use his booth for a weekend so we're shooting it ourselves with bc/cc. First time ever http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif
How hard can it be?
We're going to use Centurion enamel for the jambs and DuPont's mid grade stuff for the exterior.
Thanks for the help.

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The ongoing saga of the MALIBRUISER 70 SS fake
MALIBRUISER (http://www.motorhead.iwarp.com)

[This message has been edited by hoffman7476 (edited 02-11-2002).]

i agree for a daily driver painting it apart may be overkill. but it sure looks nice when everything matches perfect. i have done several cars this way and knock on wood not a chip yet! but i have probably used about 2 rolls of tape on each one putting it back together. you really have to tape the edges good.

it makes wet sanding and buffing a lot easier when everything is apart. you can get all the little places where compound likes to hide nice and clean before reassembly. thats mostly the main reason i like it apart.

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My 68 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68racer1.jpg)
My Engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68racer2.jpg)