Gentlemen,
I've got a 72' convertible with a badly rusted out frame; the rest of the car is in really good shape (even had it in the Woodward Dream Cruise last year). I have an 850+ HP twin turbo motor scheduled to go in by mid-summer.

My understanding is that the only difference between the convertible frame and the hardtop is that the convertible is boxed in the center section. Both have the 112 in. wheelbase.

Since it has been somewhat difficult finding a convertible frame, I'm thinking of getting a hardtop and boxing the center myself (along with some more reinforcement for the motor).

Does anyone know of any problems or drawbacks with what I'm trying to do?

Thanks,

Crankshaft

Hard top frames are no where near as strong as convert. frames. PERIOD. Find a boxed frame, as they are the back bone of the verts.

i dont mean to disagree but, first you are correct. the only difference is the added box sections in the middle. if you box it well you should be fine, personally i would not do that unless you plan on having a 6 or 8 point roll cage welded to the frame. if you do that you will be fine.

As stated. .the ONLY difference between the two frames are the V shaped reinforcement,thats welded into the reg-frame open cneter C channel.. I see no problem if you can fabracate the proper meterial to duplicate the BOXED frame.
MAtrer of fact. .you may be able to salvage the
originla box meterial out of you old frame ...
I have seen that done....on a 67 frame..

You might try Sundell Auto Specialties for a convertible frame and perhaps some good soul will post the ph#, I can't find it my mess on the desk here at home.

Sundell Auto

NC 704 434 6759 ask for Eric

PA 724 794 6827 ask for Norm

Thanks to everyone who responded! I really appreciate the input. I have located both types (convertible and hardtop) at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Arizona; all are rust free (whoohoo!).

They want $1200 for the convertible and $450 for the hardtop. This makes my decision a whole lot easier, wouldn't you say? :D

I WILL call Sundell Auto Specialties to price shop, obviously, but I kind of expect the convertible frame to be higher there, too.

Thanks again, everyone!

Crankshaft

I would buy the convert frame or have a hardtop frame BOXED. GM boxed the frames on verts for a reason, the reason being that with the roof cut off they needed a more rigid frame to prevent flexing.

What is so wrong with boxing a frame? Very common practice in sreet rods. My boss is big into rods and his current project is a 46 ford roadster pickup. It has a car front end and doors but a back of a 53 ford pu grafted in at the door jams, with a regular pu box out back. We boxed the frame cause we were concerned that the car frame wouldnt provide the needed rigidness to keep the "cab" from flexing

Convertible frames are boxed, like the El Caminos.

If your convert frame is rusted or damaged, it's much easier to find a good El Camino frame and make the rear section shorter.

Nates tip o' the day ! smile.gif

Ok, here's another question that I REALLY need clarification with....

I'm going to pick up a hardtop frame next Saturday (found one locally) and box it.

My question concerns the body mounts. Year One, OPG, NPD, etc., all offer body bushing kits; the convertible kits are called out differently (in part number and price). This is concerning me; does anyone know what the difference is here? Is there an extra mount, or are they different heights, or whatever? I'd like to know before I go buy a frame that I can't use :rolleyes:

SS3964N8,
The wheelbase of the El Camino measures at 116 in; the coupe and convertible are 112 in. This is given in the "Chevelle SS Restoration Guide" written by Paul A. Herd.

I'm inclined to say the shortening the rear of an El Camino frame wouldn't work based on the wheelbase difference. :(

Crankshaft

A Chevelle has some blocks that just plug into the frame and are spacers more than mounts. They're just rubber and they have no metal sleeve, bolt or bottom half. Maybe the kit changes some of the blocks for actual mounts. Otherwise, the mount boss will be on the frame and you'd have to drill the holes. Either way, I'm sure you'd be OK.

Even if you have to take a 4" section out of the middle of the frame, and shorten the rear, that's a lot less work than what your talking about doing.
You'll see !!! ;)


Nate

Buy the hardtop frame box it and be done with it period. The only difference on the hardtop and convert mounts is that the body mount around the front seat on the hardtop has no bolt going through it, but on the convert it has bolt going through it and bolting to the body. The frames are the same except one is boxed one is not

Even if you have to take a 4" section out of the middle of the frame, and shorten the rear, that's a lot less work than what your talking about doing. How you figure that? Trying to make sure that the frame sections would be square, true and level...and after you get it to fit making the frame as strong as it once was. Buy some 10 gauge metal, should be roughly the thickness of that frame and weld it in

Food for thought: My GM shop manual shows 2 extra body mounts for the convertibles up front under the cowl area. I believe they're coreless/boltless "biscuits" similar to the ones near the rear spring perches, they're just there for support and don't have a bolt through them. Hopefully someone can confirm this.

$1200 for a convertible frame?!?!? Yikes!

Definately buy the HT frame and box it yourself. That's a lot of bucks for the convertible frame!

I've always heard that El Camino frames and convertible frames were the same but I don't know for sure, maybe someone else does

I've also always heard that the book "Chevelle SS Restoration Guide" written by Paul A. Herd is full of mistakes

Cool, Gokou, that's what I thought too.

If you haven't figured it out yet, the tranny crossmember bolts into the U of the frame on a hardtop and the convert frame has indents in the boxing to allow that. So, cut the inside boxes off the old convert frame and weld them to the new one. They seem to be much heavier metal that should still be OK even though you have other rust damage. If you box the frame flat you will have to make a new crossmember or modify the one you have.

Peter

My ragtop has the two extra mounts up front under the cowl area. I do not believe they are held by bolts though. Hope this helps.

Originally posted by Dean:
I've always heard that El Camino frames and convertible frames were the same but I don't know for sure, maybe someone else does

I've also always heard that the book "Chevelle SS Restoration Guide" written by Paul A. Herd is full of mistakes Wagons and Elkys are the same only Elkys are boxed. Converts and hardtops the same only converts are boxed.

sevt_chevelle
Your obviously just spoutin' off and don't know what you are talking about.
Poke your head under a 68-72 Convert sometime and take a look. Convert frames are not just easily made by buying some metal and welding it onto a hdtp frame graemlins/clonk.gif
The boxed area has contours that I'll bet even the best expert fabricator would have trouble duplicating.
The crossmember has to bolt up to it too !
Then there's the fuel line/s and the brake line.

$1200 for a rust free convert frame is fair. Albeit, probably about the max.

Cutting 4" out of an El Camino frame is a piece of cake. getting it straight after that is also easy. It just takes some time and patience. No big deal.
Yes, converts have another 2 body bushings under the front cowl area and they are needed for added support (rigidity) of the body.

Also, if welded properly, the weld is stronger than the metal. If you're worried about it, then reinforce the metal around the welds.

To each his own I guess ;)


Nate

Buy the hardtop frame.When you remove the vert frame from your car,just duplicate the differances onto the ht frame.

The convertible frame isn't just "boxed" it is wider. The channel is not simply "closed in" like boxing a Model A Furd. It has another "channel" that is welded to the rail making the rail about twice as wide as the regular frame. It CAN NOT be done in the average home garage. That is not to say that it can't be done at all, but it is highly unlikely. We have been talking about it over on the "Brakes and suspension" forum.
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=005746

Originally posted by Crankshaft:


The wheelbase of the El Camino measures at 116 in; the coupe and convertible are 112 in. This is given in the "Chevelle SS Restoration Guide" written by Paul A. Herd.

Use that Chevelle SS Resto guide to level out a table.

Get this one, it's a factory manual, and will tell you anything that you'd ever want to know. I have 2 of the 3 made for my 69 and they can't be beat!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408354931&category=6760

Hey guys....
First for PeterF. EVERY bushing on a Chevelle between the body and frame has a bolt going through it and a metal sleeve in the upper section for support....

and Second for Gokou..

Those front mounts are under the cowl are exactly like the rest of the "biscuits". There is a bolt through each, I know, I busted off all four of them up fronm on my '66 SS. Had to drill through and retap each of the cage nuts...worked out pretty good though.

And for general information, I paid $1100.00 for my replacement frame from AZ through a guy here in Detroit. His brother lives in AZ and hunts down parts to sell by special order. I have his number somewhere.....if I could only find it. :confused:

I would personally go with the original frame, unless you are going to put in a cage. I know from past experience that if you put a 'vette convertible on a spread arm floor hoist...DO NOT OPEN THE DOORS...it sags terribly and the owner gets really miffed when he sees his car bending down on either end. And, I figure the General had a pretty good idea on what he was doing when he engineered that frame. As far as boxing older street rods...the body strength is already there...its the engine power that you are stiffening the chassis for....

Good luck

Mike

Originally posted by Chief:
Hey guys....
First for PeterF. EVERY bushing on a Chevelle between the body and frame has a bolt going through it and a metal sleeve in the upper section for support....Mike,

My '72 Hardtop has 4 cushions with no bolts through them. The mount that is in the center of the doors (front to rear) has no bolt through it. And the mount just above the rear axle kickup has no bolt in it. I agree that most Chevelles have bolts at every mount point, but not all of them.

just checking this post out...first off as for the mounts, it is different between the 66 and 68-72 cars. My 66 convertible had bolted in mounts at every location, including at the crossmember behind the rear seat area. I have had a few and they were all like that. I have had MANY 68-72 A body convertibles, and none had all bolted in mounts. None of the 69-72 verts had bolted in mounts behind the seat like the 66, just dummy blocks. (still havent checked my 68) Also some had dummy blocks at the mount under the door, others had bolts. Some also had two mounts up front at the cowl on each side instead of one like the hardtop. It may have depended on division, because I have had chevelles/cutlasses/ and lemans verts and I cant remember which had which. If you want to use a hardtop frame and box it you can, it has all the holes already there for all mounting points. The inner boxing sections are not just plates as mentioned, but I believe the reason for the wierd shape is to clear the floor, since the boxing sections are wider and stick out some into the middle of the floor. As mentioned frame work is business as usual when doing street rod work, if you have the ability I see no reason why you couldnt just plate the inner rails with steel similar to the factory setup. Just boxing it square may not be stiff enough. As for the crossmember, its easy enough to weld up an "L" on each inner rail and shorten/modify a crossmember to work with it. It is work but if you have the ability and tools its not a big deal. I have some inner rails I saved from a wasted vert frame in case I needed them, I will head out and get a pic so you have an idea of what they look like. Anything can be done, just takes the right tools and some time...OK here is a pic, upper shows the convertible boxing sections, factory weld is "dotted"..below it is a hardtop frame. The factory just welded the boxing sections to the hardtop to make the vert. The boxed sections angle down, and have a flat spot for the crossmember to mount..so the crossmember is shorter than a hardtop. Crossmember shown is a BOP, the chevy uses a tube style. <a href="http://members.aol.com/drptop70ss/frames.jpg" target="_blank">
frames</a>

Gokou is absolutely correct - there's an extra set of mounts inside the coupe ones at the cowl. Personnally I would spend the extra money and get the convertible frame, the $800 difference is nothing compared to all the work necessary to swap the frames and end up with a "correct" fix. Five years from now you'll be wishing you did it the right way - especially if you want to sell it.

SS39664N8, am fully aware of the difference in a convert frame and hardtop frame. I know the frame is "boxed" using two separate channels and the inside channel has contours and bends. It appears that the guy doesnt care about factory looks when he is dropping a twin turbo motor, so making those bends and contours is not much of a factor. Am also fully aware that not everyone one this site has YOUR knowledge of frame modification. There's alot more to it then just whacking out 4 inches and welding it back together. What do you say to the guy that has no idea on how to measure a frame, make sure its straight and level? Preventative measures to make sure the frame dont "POP" out when you cut it apart, seen it happen.

I know just slapping some plate steel up there and welding it up wont look factory, but a hell of lot easier then cutting a frame in three pieces. Plus it harder to screw up boxing then cutting one apart. What do you do when you mismeasured, fully welded, and now the frame dog tracks?

What about the guy who has never welded before and is now cutting a frame apart and splicing it back together? Who doesnt know how to reinforce the welds or get proper weld peneration, most guys have a 110 welder, would you weld up a frame with 110? I know i sure wouldnt!! When I did my 49 I used my 110 to tack everything together then used the shop's welder which I knew would handle frame work. I weld almost everyday and even was a certified welder for collision repair so am no friggin idiot when it comes to welding.

Not everyone can weld up frames or splice them back together. Simply stating that its much easier to box a frame using plate steel then cut up an elky frame and piece it back. Ive done both methods, not to a chevelle, I know what it takes to box a frame and how cut one up in pieces and splice it into one. In my experiences its much easier to box then whacking something apart

I have the answer......lets all just chip in $50.00 a piece and send it to Crankshaft and he will have enough to pay the difference on the 'vert frame... graemlins/thumbsup.gif smile.gif and then we can close this thread....

Just a thought

I will second (or third) that ALL the bushings/buscuits have bolts thru them (at least on mine they did).

Also, I would doubt if you could box the frame yourself and do a good job of it. As mentioned, the boxed section is pretty elaborate and could not be easily fabricated.

Thats not to say that you couldn't remove the old "box" and weld it in.

If someone were REALLY good, they might be able to reproduce the box, but after you factored in all the time/money, it might be cheaper to just get the correct frame.

I know some have "boxed" their frames by welding flat plate to close in the open part of the frame, but I doubt that it is as effective as the factory box (or else I am sure that GM would have done it that way and saved some money). This would probably be fine for a hardtop to stiffen things up, but I wouldn't try it for a convertible. I can tell you that my frame flexes A LOT. I would hate to drive a convertible with a frame with a less effective box.

Charles, your car had the bolts and my 66 cars did, so most likely the 64-67 cars had all bolts. Like I said I havent checked my 68 but the 69-72 definately did not have all bolts. I actually bought one 66 that was bent because the guy jacked up the body without pulling the bolts behind the rear seat!

Probably doesn't help much, but my 65 vert had bolts in every bushing. I know this because every damn one of the bolts broke or stripped, heh.

Wow, you guys are really something here! I never imagined all this repsonse! COOL!!!

Anyhow,
Here's a few updates:

As stated ealier, I'm going this Saturday to pick up a good hardtop frame that cost $300. I have two pairs of rubber bushings in my convertible frame without bolts; one pair up front at the cowl (along with a bolted pair, and one pair behind the back seat). They are definitely "dummies" because I drilled throught them to make sure there wasn't a bolt hiding in there. Also have had 2 cage nuts come loose before I could get the bolts out (now I'm having fun!)

I went to Soutern Motors (car lot) and got underneath a couple of hardtops just to see for myself, and the hardtop will do me just fine!

As sevt_chevelle stated, I'm not looking for a resto deal. While they are nice, I'm a drag racing hot rodder (redundant?). I will NEVER sell this Chevelle; I've loved them since I was 9 years old when my next-door neighbor had a mid 10-second one while he was still in his late teens (this was 24 years ago, and my love for them has only grown!)The factory look stays, just not underneath, where no one sees it anyway.

I've got a 220V Tig welder, a profesional tubing bender, plasma cutter, mill, you name it. I've already got plenty of experience building a full tube chassis car, so fabricating is not an issue.
I had stated I was going to do other things to the frame to handle the motor (some X-bracing, modifed engine cradle, etc.), so I'm not totally relying on the boxing of the frame for the sole means of strength.

What I am looking for is to bring it back to where it is supposed to be, then make it better!

I really appreciate all the reponses on this subject! This is how learning gets done! :D

Thank you everyone, and I'll keep you all updated as this project rolls along!

Crankshaft

crankshaft.
Can I ask you to do one thing while doing this hdtp "frame reinforcing".

Keep track of the hours spent.

Let's see........at $50 hr, that gives you 24 hrs to get to $1200.00. You said $1200.00 would buy you a good rust free convert frame right ?

Just keep track of everything you do to bring this hdtp frame up to conv frame specs. I don't think you are going to be able to do all this inside of 48 hours !

I'd listen to MARTINSR, as he does this type of work every day.

sevt_chevelle,
I was assuming that Crankshaft wanted his car to appear original as far as the frame. I see now that he does not care. I still think that fabricating all the pcs and boxing a hdtp frame will not be cost effective. And you have to consider the end results appearance.
To each their own.


Nate

Hi there Crankshaft I have a hard top and was considering doing some of the same stuff that you are talking about I too was considering buying a convert frame and then reinforcing that or keeping the hard top frame and boxing and reinforcing it. I would like to hear some of the ideas that you have for reinforcing the frame I have some ideas for reinforcing the rear section short of a full back half job and a roll cage and would like to hear what you think about them

SS396, thanks for the support but I really didn't say much. smile.gif I don't do stuff like this everyday, but had done my fair share.
What I do know is this, shorting an Elky frame could be the easiest way or hardest, it depends on how the frame was made. I really havn't a clue how the General made the Elky frame longer. Was it in the center rails that are longer and rear kickups and rails are the same as H/T's or are the rear kickups longer in the front? Are the rear rails longer, I remember the rear of the quarter on the wagon as well as the Elky being longer than a H/T, could that area be different as well as the center rails?

I would assume that the General made these frames like every other part of the "A" bodies, sharing as many parts as possible among the different models. The frame is made from many parts just like the motor. They simply grabed the ones needed and welded them together to make the four different frames, Conv., H/T sedan/ Elky, wagon (the wagon was not boxed right?) . So, how many parts are different between the frames I really do not know. If the side center rails are all that is different this could be pretty easy. Just remove the rear section at the factory weld and then cut off the required amount and re-weld it together. If the rear of the side rail has some complex shapes to meet up with the rear section, this could become MUCH more difficult. You would then have to cut it right in half and then make your own weld point to re-attach the rear portion. If the rear frame section is longer at the front or rear rails, I would say forget the whole thing. Not that you couldn't just shorten them, but my experiace tells me that when there is changes like this, BE READY FOR MORE. Like the shape of the kick up over the rear axle is different and stupid things like that. That has been my experiance, if the manufacture changes something that much it is likely they were not thinking about some guy in thirty years using the frame to make another and really didn't care if you could.
Of course if any shortening was done MANY, MANY measurements would have to be done to see exactly where you would do this. HOURS of measuring between body mounts and things like ON TOP of measuring for reference to keep the darn thing straight would be needed.

On boxing the frame. Keeping it stock appearing or not, STRANGE things can happen when welding down the side of the frame rail. I found that at while boxing the frame on my brothers roadster. I took it slow, knowing what heat can do, it still knocked the thing out of square. I had to go back and repair it. On a frame such as the GM "A" body I would not be suprised to get some twist or diamond conditions from welding the sides in. Care MUST be taken and measuring THROUGHOUT the process is needed.

Your skills are your ruler to what you should or could do. If you are the least bit uneasy about shorting a frame and "if" your welding is good enough, DON'T DO IT. Please, my family and I are on the road with you. Boxing, not that critical, safety wise, but it can give you just as much trouble.

Taking the "boxing" sections out of the Elky frame and putting them (some modifying would be needed) in the H/T frame makes the most sense to me sitting hear at the computer. Once you have them laying on the ground in the back yard, that may not be the case. graemlins/waving.gif

I've been following this thread for a while, and hesitated saying anything because I don't actually have the technical wherewithall to contribute anything constructive. I did want to say, though, that I bought one of Sundell's $1,200 frames for my 66 convertible, and am very happy with it. It was straight and rust free and I just got it back from the blaster/powdercoater. I forget the guy's name at Sundell's (in PA) but he was really great to work with. I know it's expensive, but I figured I was paying for peace of mind, and so far it's been worth it. But of course, I would be unable to do any of the options described here that would require a shop and welding know-how.
Ed.

Nate,
no way will something like this take more than 6-8 hours depending on how close to factory you want, probably much less. Most of the time is spent making templates of the pieces needed, then its just plasma cut the pieces, clean up the edges, and weld. Not a big deal at all. The tools make all the difference when it comes to doing stuff like this. Also, back in 1990 before I had any real tools I got a frame from sundells to replace the frame on my 66 vert..I cut up the old frame for scrap, and when I made the first cut the frame ends sprung away from each other like they were under a lot of tension when together. If I had tried to section that frame, with the few tools and modest knowledge I had, I would of been totally screwed with a twisted ruined frame. I wouldnt suggest anyone section a frame unless they have the tools and backround to give it a go.

SS3964N8,
I will keep track of the time spent for you, no problem; but remember that $1200 was for the frame (shipping was another $450, total $1650). Also, to just box it in wouldn't take 24 hours of welding (if it does, I REALLY SUCK as a welder! :D ).

The other modifications will of course take longer, but I would have to do those to a perfectly good convertible frame anyway, so you really can't count that time.

If I can save $1350 dollars by going to get the $300 hardtop frame, that's $1350 more that can go into the motor/trans (or whatever). I don't view my time spent on my hobby in dollars per hour; I'm doing it because I truly enjoy it!

MARTINSR,
No need to worry (roadwise) because I would never try to cut and re-section a frame. I know it is possible, but from a structural integrity point of view, it's not worth the worry for me to cut and paste someone else's design (and keep it all square). Plus, there's the residual stress factor that drptop70ss mentions. You can add to it (which is what I'm going to do), but dont' change it unless you know EXACTLY how to, and WHY. GM did their design for a reason, which I am not privy to without a time machine, so why ask for the headache?

To keep everything square while welding, I will be "jigging" it in (kind of like how you weld in a series of well-placed tubes in a car body before pulling it off the frame) to prevent the twisting and diamond conditions you spoke of. I'm not in a rush here, because I want this to come out excellent!

Umass,
I'll draw up what I have in mind and mail them to you, if you'd like. It's probably a lot easier than trying to descibe it using just words. ;)

Thanks again everyone! I'm loving this forum!

Gearhead

Thanks crankshaft that would be great if you mailed me that stuff maybe you might want to check out some of my ideas thanks

When I boxed the frame on the 49 chevy truck it took me a good saturday and sunday, which included installing an IFS. The most time consuming part, which I think was mentioned beofre by someone else was the making of templates. I got a big bundle of cardboard, and just held the cardboard agaist the frame and traced its outline. Then traced that onto some metal and proceeded to trim the metal to fit the frame rails.

I do believe the best route to go is with the OEM covert frame, but not everyone has the money to drop 1700 for a frame. But to alot of people who have the tools and knowledge, and not the cash-ME, boxing a hardtop frame is an effective method.

As Martin mentioned take your time welding, frame damage can occur. I had a slight diamond when i was done with my 49, which I easily corrected at the shop. A few months ago I bought another chevy pu-a 50, want to turn it into a 50's style hot rod. I boxed the frame on that to, but this time I weld metal across the rails in a few spots, basically a backyard jig. I was told by a guy that builds street rods for living, that doing this will stop frame damage(diamond, twist). When I did get done with the boxing i didnt get the diamond like I got before.
So crankshaft if you do put it in a jig I dont see that you will have any type of problems as long as you take your time, dont apply to much heat in one area and have great fitting sections...Eric

Gokou and Peter F. are both right, I just put the body back on my 69 convertible. The bushings under the seat have mounting bolts (where the hardtop doesn't) and there is an additional bushing that doesn't have the mounting bolts under the cowl. That totals 2 bushing (1 with and 1 w/o) on each side of the cowl. My frame required some welding to repair the bushing mount locations and I used purchased washers: McMaster-carr p/n:97063A520, (1-1/2" ID, 3" OD).

Gokou and Peter F. are both right, I just put the body back on my 69 convertible. The bushings under the seat have mounting bolts (where the hardtop doesn't) and there is an additional bushing that doesn't have the mounting bolts under the cowl. That totals 2 bushing (1 with and 1 w/o) on each side of the cowl. My frame required some welding to repair the bushing mount locations and I used purchased washers: McMaster-carr p/n:97063A520, (1-1/2" ID, 3" OD).

Gokou and Peter F. are both right, I just put the body back on my 69 convertible. The bushings under the seat have mounting bolts (where the hardtop doesn't) and there is an additional bushing that doesn't have the mounting bolts under the cowl. That totals 2 bushing (1 with and 1 w/o) on each side of the cowl. My frame required some welding to repair the bushing mount locations and I used purchased washers: McMaster-carr p/n:97063A520, (1-1/2" ID, 3" OD).

Crankshaft, I cannot find where I ever said "24 hours of welding" ?????

What I was talking about, was to keep track of all of the time spent making the modifications. If you have to fab special bracketry or drill holes for the crossmember, then that's included. Stuff like that. So it's not all welding. Everything that you have to do to come up with the finished product.
I used to do a fair amount of research and development in manufacturing. I know how much time is involved when you have to custom fabricate everything.
It tends to take a lot longer than you had ever expected.
If you're Superman and can do this job in 6-8 hours, then more power to ya. I hope you do. But experience tells me that it will take more time than this to do a nice job.
Cutting and bending the pieces, fitting them in, grinding them to make them fit right, and welding them, then grinding the bad welds and weld spatter., etc, etc, etc.
Nobody is perfect and nobody just whips stuff like this together.

I should also make another point.
Just because you got a quote for $1200 doesn't mean that that's the only frame around.
By the way, I send perfectly good hdtp frames to the wrecking yard. If I thought I could sell one, it would be $100. Maybe......and it's a stretch, $200. Over the last 15 years, I've probably sold 2-3 hdtp frames or gave them away just to take the remainder of the car after I was done parting it out. I know I've hauled at least 10 more to the wrecking yard and I'm sure most of them got crushed. Now don't get me wrong, things have changed over the last few years and this stuff is beginning to become more sought after, so the wrecking yards are trying to hang onto it to sell.

I just picked up a 65 Chevelle convert for $100. The frame is perfect. (That's what I bought it for).
I bought a 1969 GTO convert on eBay 2 summers ago for $50. I should explain that the car was stripped and the body was rusted like Swiss cheese, but the frame was solid and I sold it to a friend for his 71 Chevelle convert for $250. (ok, he's a good friend, besides, he knew what I had invested in the car after towing, gas, etc.).

In my honest opinion, solid 68-72 convert frames are worth from $500-800, depending on condition. These guys that sell them for $1200 probably only sell to 5-10% of the people that inquire about them. If that many. I'm sure they are trying to get top dollar for them, and I seriously doubt they could get any more than that, OR THEY WOULD ! But on any given day, I'm sure you could find a 68-72 A-body convert in a wrecking yard and haul the whole car or what's left of it away for $500. Or less ! Maybe only in some parts of the country, and maybe you'd have to hunt a little, but it's very plausible.

I wish you the best of luck with your frame project. I hope it works out well for you.
I just thought it would be good to know how much time was necessary to do this.
If you think you can keep track of the time, honestly, then I'd be curious to know how long it took.
Maybe you can take pictures and post them for others who are considering doing the same thing.


Nate

SS3964N8,
I think my statement about 24 hours of welding may have been misleading; for myself, when I say 'welding', to me that does include the prep work and fitting; sorry about that. :D

I don't really have problems with weld spatter, because I use a tig (which may not be the fastest for this job, but it will definitely give me the results I'm after; an added bonus is you usually don't have to grind good tig welds.

I realize if I did the long and hard search, I could probably find a good convert frame for less thatn $1200, but $300 for a solid hardtop is a pretty good deal here. Where I live around Detroit, Michigan, we just don't have the good junkyard resources for the old stuff anymore (This IS the car capital of the world; we have more gearheads per square foot than some states have per square mile smile.gif ); the stuff that IS available is either really rough and rusty, or really expensive.

I'll bring home a digital camera from work and document all this I as do it.

And yes, I am taking what you are saying to heart, so please don't think I'm downplaying what you are saying at all; I'm listening to everyone giving their opinions, so I can take the information and form the best plan that works for me. I truly appreciate your input. Thank you!

Crankshaft

check this out. A FREE frame.
I rest my case.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408557339&category=6783


graemlins/thumbsup.gif

You California guys have all the luck. :D

Tell you what. How 'bout you go pick it up and swing by my house later with it. I'll throw in a six pack and a pizza for your trouble!

By the way, I just got the hardtop today; it is 28° and snowing. Gotta love Michigan!

Crankshaft

ok
no problem
I I I'll b b b b be right right right ov ov over

brrrrr :eek: that's cold

I think it's going to get all the way down to 50 tonight :D