I was wondering what other people are running for ets with oval port heads. My 72 chevelle ran a best of 11.34 @ 119mph with 781s. I know there alot of variables (pump gas,solid cam,4800 stall,th-400,3.73 gears and 3900 lbs with me) so I hope have listed all of mine. Oh yea a 1.66 60 foot time. I would like to change the gears but I have not decided what gears to try yet. The ETs I have run were on 275/60 R 15 M/T drag radials. I would like to be at 6000-6200 rpm at the lights with the 30" tall slicks I now have. Please let me know what ETs are possible with oval-port heads.

Thanks
Pete

my old 461 bbc had bowl blended 781 heads and a mild solid roller cam (13.1 to 1 compression).

Car weighed 3515 lbs w/driver and ran 9.99 @ 132.87 mph on M/T Et Radial tires, 275/60-16 size (4.10 gear). launched at 2500 rpm off the footbrake, shifts made at 6500-6800 rpm, finish line rpm was 6900-7200 rpm.

Those same heads on a pump gas 414 bbc (destroked 427) ran a best of 10.47 @ 127 mph at 3580 lbs on 325/50 BFG D/R street tires.

Check Out My Siganture Pete. Edelbrock Performer Rpm Heads. Oval Ports. There Is More Left In This Set Up Also. Also Run A 3:73 Gear In A 12 Bolt Rear End.

there's more than just one or two guys in the mid to low 10's with those heads, even a couple in the high 9's, but their combinations and chassis are pretty well scienced out. Also, the heads are prepped by professionals, not home ported in most cases. There can be a big difference between hw much various 781s will flow depending on who ported them.

I will say this. My 781's were not ported other than a simple bowl blend. They had 2.25/1.88 valves, bowl blended, 3 angle valve job, and the opening of the intake runner was gasket matched to the intake. The intake & exhaust runners as well as the chambers, even the guide bosses in the bowls were completely untouched.

My results are a little scewed because the motor is in such a light weight well prepped drag car, but it is an oval port motor. The motor is only 10.7 to 1 compression and has over 6000 street miles on it in my 69. I am currently running it with a 300 shot, even more scewed, but all that nitrous is going through oval port heads.

The heads are Edelbrock oval ports ported by a local pro (Bob McKray in Mission Veijo)

I put this motor in the 63 so I could learn how to drive a fast race car, I had no idea it would eventually go low 5's in the 1/8.....equals low 8.2xx's in the 1/4

Ray. I guess the responses to your question will be pretty broad because the question is fairly broad. Most of the people responding would blow my doors off, but I don't think that makes my car a dog. Some of these setups are purely drag form, others are streetable drag cars and a few are very nice dependable cars. Like I said, most of them, including yours are quicker than mine. My car is an original LS5, still complete w/ P/S, P/B, heater, P/door locks,front & rear bumper guards and cowl hood. Front and rear sway bar. It's an A/C car but I removed it for conveniance. It's a shade over 4000 lbs with me in it. I think I can get this combo to run 11.50s on the right day, but that would be all without changing something. My heads are RPM oval out of the box. Airgap intake with HP950 carb. Compression is 10.4 and cam is flat tappet Crane. Transmission is 400 turbo with 2800 stall. 4.10 gears and basically stock suspension (air bags). Not much to brag about and I'm sure there are cars here with less that are faster, but I'm running a little quicker than I expected to when my son and I put it together.

Ray. I guess the responses to your question will be pretty broad because the question is fairly broad. Most of the people responding would blow my doors off, but I don't think that makes my car a dog. Some of these setups are purely drag form, others are streetable drag cars and a few are very nice dependable cars. Like I said, most of them, including yours are quicker than mine. My car is an original LS5, still complete w/ P/S, P/B, heater, P/door locks,front & rear bumper guards and cowl hood. Front and rear sway bar. It's an A/C car but I removed it for conveniance. It's a shade over 4000 lbs with me in it. I think I can get this combo to run 11.50s on the right day, but that would be all without changing something. My heads are RPM oval out of the box. Airgap intake with HP950 carb. Compression is 10.4 and cam is flat tappet Crane. Transmission is 400 turbo with 2800 stall. 4.10 gears and basically stock suspension (air bags). Not much to brag about and I'm sure there are cars here with less that are faster, but I'm running a little quicker than I expected to when my son and I put it together.

The only reason Im asking is to see how far off my car is. I think my car should be a little faster than it is. My car is also all stock (all metal,power steering), the only thing missing are the heater hoses for a cleaner look. Your car might be slightly slower than mine but you have quicker 60' times. This tells me I should work on my 60' times (gears,suspension). My intension was not to upset anyone but to look for ways to make my car faster. What size tires are you running and what rpm do you cross the finish line at.

Thanks Pete

502 pump gas with oval ports.10.99 MOTOR-9.99 WITH A 175 HIT OF NITROUS.

The only reason Im asking is to see how far off my car is. I think my car should be a little faster than it is. My car is also all stock (all metal,power steering), the only thing missing are the heater hoses for a cleaner look. Your car might be slightly slower than mine but you have quicker 60' times. This tells me I should work on my 60' times (gears,suspension). My intension was not to upset anyone but to look for ways to make my car faster. What size tires are you running and what rpm do you cross the finish line at.

Thanks PeteYea, with a 496 I'd be expecting more myself. My times below are with very mildly ported 063 heads on my 408 BBC with 2.19/1.88 valves, pump gas and a pretty stock rear suspension (other than no-hop bars and an airbag) This with no tuning....

Pete, I didn't mean to sound upset. I'm not. At 3900lbs, 11.30s are not easy. I'm impressed. I'm running 28X10.5 M/T ET slicks at the track. That's probably why my 60' is a little better. It may be the gear, but at almost 120MPH, your motor is working better than mine.(115MPH) I'm crossing at around 6100 RPM I think. I hate to admit it, but I'm not really sure about that. I just changed my street tires M/T Sportsman Pros (28X12.50) to 275/60/15 M/T street radials. Can't wait to see how they hook. Those Sportsmans wouldn't try to hook. 2.06 60' and 12.31.

Pete, your answer requires a to more data, including the incrementals off your time slip. The heads might have more in them, even in a stroker. They certainly wont make more HP than a good set of 300 cc rects ( AFR), but thats not exactly the issue here. Post it all! And the car is fast "out-of-the-box". :thumbsup:

Pete, your answer requires a to more data, including the incrementals off your time slip. The heads might have more in them, even in a stroker. They certainly wont make more HP than a good set of 300 cc rects ( AFR), but thats not exactly the issue here. Post it all! And the car is fast "out-of-the-box". :thumbsup:


60' 1.664
330' 4.686
1/8 7.238 @ 96.35
1000' 9.455
1/4 11.342 @ 119.60




Head flow I E

.100 78 54
.200 138 105
.300 207 139
.400 260 158
.500 297 187
.600 318 203
.700 311 220


781s With 2.300 intake 1.880 exhaust



Pete

I was wondering what other people are running for ets with oval port heads. My 72 chevelle ran a best of 11.34 @ 119mph with 781s. I know there alot of variables (pump gas,solid cam,4800 stall,th-400,3.73 gears and 3900 lbs with me) so I hope have listed all of mine. Oh yea a 1.66 60 foot time. I would like to change the gears but I have not decided what gears to try yet. The ETs I have run were on 275/60 R 15 M/T drag radials. I would like to be at 6000-6200 rpm at the lights with the 30" tall slicks I now have. Please let me know what ETs are possible with oval-port heads.

Thanks
Pete Your car isn't that far off of what a normal car will do with an oval port Chevy head. I'd expect a 496 should be capable of running about 11.0s in a 3900 lb. car like yours. Where do you run and what are the normal weather conditions there? Real slicks will probably cut your E.T.s by a tenth or two. Who's torque converter do you have? The converter can cut E.T., gain MPH and cut the finish line RPM thereby allowing you to gear down a little. What RPM are you going across at now? I definately wouldn't consider going below 4.10 gears with a 496" motor. The 3.73 gears might be just right when you find some more power. The more power you have the less gear you need. Some small 305 AFRs with the CNC chamber option would pick the motor up considerably. Check with "Mike Lewis Racing" (aka. "Wolfplace") on these if you decide to go that route. Most of the really fast guys here have way lighter cars than yours and that makes tons of difference. Some like Todd, Rafel, Ed Bigley, John Wilson, etc. are very good at finding all there is in a combination so their results can't be called average by any means. I'm sure really good traction would get yours into the 11.0 range with better tires. Most really fast cars didn't start that way, someone just keep working on the combination 'till they came around. Bob West has a '71 or '72 Chevelle that started off like yours in the mid 11's and now runs 10.40s - 10.30s. There is lots of expense between what you have now and one running mid tens.

It's a shade over 4000 lbs with me in it. I think I can get this combo to run 11.50s on the right day, but that would be all without changing something. My heads are RPM oval out of the box. Airgap intake with HP950 carb. Compression is 10.4 and cam is flat tappet Crane. Transmission is 400 turbo with 2800 stall. 4.10 gears and basically stock suspension (air bags). Not much to brag about and I'm sure there are cars here with less that are faster, but I'm running a little quicker than I expected to when my son and I put it together.

Not to hijack Ray's thread, but do you mind sharing cam specs? I'm planning a BB build similar to yours, and I'd be thrilled to go 11.69. I hate high-stall converters for street use, which is why your combo interests me, with your 2800 stall. I also have a 2800 stall converter, a Coan, and that's what I would like to use with my BB. I'm still undecided between building a 496 or a 468.

Pete, I didn't mean to sound upset. I'm not. At 3900lbs, 11.30s are not easy. I'm impressed. I'm running 28X10.5 M/T ET slicks at the track. That's probably why my 60' is a little better. It may be the gear, but at almost 120MPH, your motor is working better than mine.(115MPH) I'm crossing at around 6100 RPM I think. I hate to admit it, but I'm not really sure about that. I just changed my street tires M/T Sportsman Pros (28X12.50) to 275/60/15 M/T street radials. Can't wait to see how they hook. Those Sportsmans wouldn't try to hook. 2.06 60' and 12.31. The fact that this car ran 11 anything on Sportsman Pros impressive. The E.T. Street Radials are much better tires and should surprise you at the improvement. Tire pressures have to kept up around 18-20 Lbs. to make these work from what i hear, if the air gets low they spin badly.

My 049 heads have the 2.19 intake valves, stock exhaust valve size. 4.10 gear, 30" tall slick. Roller cam / 10.5 compression. 8" convertor. Suspension that works. Your heads are not holding you back.

i run a bone stock 454 with a solid roller and so far has ran a 11.51 @117

78 malibu full cage mild steel all interior,(no back seat) 4.11 turbo 400 3000 stall i would guess weight to be around 3500 with me in it. (im 200lbs)


461
8.1 compression
049 heads 2.19 1.88 mild clean up work by me
666/623 solid roller 256/260 duration
victor junior
950hp

car 60ft a 1.64 on motor and a 1.60 on a 125 shot and ran a 10.55 @128. the stall is way to tight and the suspension is binding bad. im installing a 4000 stall and adjustable control arms with heim links right now to help this.

Not to hijack Ray's thread, but do you mind sharing cam specs? I'm planning a BB build similar to yours, and I'd be thrilled to go 11.69. I hate high-stall converters for street use, which is why your combo interests me, with your 2800 stall. I also have a 2800 stall converter, a Coan, and that's what I would like to use with my BB. I'm still undecided between building a 496 or a 468.

Hello Mike. Good to talk to you again. You probably don't remember, but we were parked together in Atlanta (Super Chevy 05). My car is silver w/blk stripes. The cam I have is Crane flat tappet. Duration is 238/248 @.50 and the lift is .544/.567.

The fact that this car ran 11 anything on Sportsman Pros impressive. The E.T. Street Radials are much better tires and should surprise you at the improvement. Tire pressures have to kept up around 18-20 Lbs. to make these work from what i hear, if the air gets low they spin badly.

Harold, either I wrote it wrong or you you read it wrong. My 11.69 was with M/T ET slicks (28X10.5 stiffs) It wouldn't run at all with the Pros. (12.31 with a 2.06 60' time. Sorry if I made it confusing. These street radials that I just mounted are on 8" wheels. Will I have to go lower with pressure to get them to track?

Your car isn't that far off of what a normal car will do with an oval port Chevy head. I'd expect a 496 should be capable of running about 11.0s in a 3900 lb. car like yours. Where do you run and what are the normal weather conditions there? Real slicks will probably cut your E.T.s by a tenth or two. Who's torque converter do you have? The converter can cut E.T., gain MPH and cut the finish line RPM thereby allowing you to gear down a little. What RPM are you going across at now? I definately wouldn't consider going below 4.10 gears with a 496" motor. The 3.73 gears might be just right when you find some more power. The more power you have the less gear you need. Some small 305 AFRs with the CNC chamber option would pick the motor up considerably. Check with "Mike Lewis Racing" (aka. "Wolfplace") on these if you decide to go that route. Most of the really fast guys here have way lighter cars than yours and that makes tons of difference. Some like Todd, Rafel, Ed Bigley, John Wilson, etc. are very good at finding all there is in a combination so their results can't be called average by any means. I'm sure really good traction would get yours into the 11.0 range with better tires. Most really fast cars didn't start that way, someone just keep working on the combination 'till they came around. Bob West has a '71 or '72 Chevelle that started off like yours in the mid 11's and now runs 10.40s - 10.30s. There is lots of expense between what you have now and one running mid tens.


I run my car at new york international race way park at 780' above sea level. When I race its 70-80 out. I dont use a weather station at the track. The converter is from competition transmission out of buffalo NY. I was at 5800-5900rpm at the fimish line with 28" tall tires (drag radials) but now I will be using 30" tall slicks.


Thanks Pete

Not to hijack Ray's thread, but do you mind sharing cam specs? I'm planning a BB build similar to yours, and I'd be thrilled to go 11.69. I hate high-stall converters for street use, which is why your combo interests me, with your 2800 stall. I also have a 2800 stall converter, a Coan, and that's what I would like to use with my BB. I'm still undecided between building a 496 or a 468.


Please ask anything you want, I might learn something myself. I dont know why people get upset when other questions are asked on their thread, I consider this OUR thread. We are here to help each other.


Pete

My 049 heads have the 2.19 intake valves, stock exhaust valve size. 4.10 gear, 30" tall slick. Roller cam / 10.5 compression. 8" convertor. Suspension that works. Your heads are not holding you back.


Nice 60' time, What did you do to your suspension?

Thanks Pete

Hello Mike. Good to talk to you again. You probably don't remember, but we were parked together in Atlanta (Super Chevy 05). My car is silver w/blk stripes. The cam I have is Crane flat tappet. Duration is 238/248 @.50 and the lift is .544/.567.

Now that you mention it, I do remember! I think my brother-in-law was there as well that day, showing his 65 C10 in the car show. In fact, I think that was the day I made it to the semi's in the DOT bracket and picked up $125. Wish you would come again this year, maybe you brought the good luck :) Beautiful car you have, by the way.

my 69 velle with bone stock 781 heads ran a 11:42 @ 118 mph. this is a 468, solid roller 629 lift. turbo 400, 3600 b&m holeshot,12 bolt eaton posi. victor jr intake,holley hp830,hooker 2 inch headers,all metal car except hood. but since i busted 11:50 they would not let me race any more that day.so i now have a tig welded moly six point rollbar. and i have not been back to race it yet.waiting for warmer weather.

I think the best e.t. with 781's that I had was 10.87, but that was before I had the suspension lined out, 60ft was still in the 1.5x range. I then swapped to the Brodix RR Ovals, got the suspension lined out and immediately dropped to 1.4x 60fts and 10.40-10.50 range. This year I've upped the compression, more cam, and already gone 1.37 60ft-6.56@ 103.85 on worn out slicks and no tuning, I'm hoping to see 10.1x-10.20 by next fall which is plenty quick enough for me considering all the stuff you gotta do to run 9.99 now.

The ATI 8" converter that Bob West is running is a good compromise unit and works well in a car like yours. About 4000-4200 stall speed is plenty so you don't overpower the tires. Frankly a real slick, like the E.T. Drag tire is a big improvement over any type street tire, D.R. or E.T. Street, if your car is prone to spinning and the suspension hasn't been worked over some. Some people use the "truck arm" suspension by Alf Weibe and that is a complete rework of the rear, (springs, shocks and other pieces and may include some front end stuff too). Dick Miller has a system that works pretty well but needs an anti-roll bar to go along with it. Once the suspension works well the more power you have the faster it will 60' foot, up to a point. P.S.... You really need weather station so you can average your times in different climatic conditions and see if your going forwards or backwards in your quest for better E.T.s. Find someone with a weather station and take them along with you or find some good racer that doesn't mind your asking for that information after each run and write everything down. Weather info: temperature, barometric pressure, humidity and density altitude is very usefull and will show you things you hadn't thought about before.

Mine flashes a little north of 5k Harold, I think thats why I had to do more work to get the suspension to hook.

Nice 60' time, What did you do to your suspension?

Thanks Pete

I installed an Alf Wiebe kit, did the trick for me.

Hey Pete.....

My car has gone 10.79 getting out of and back in the gas with a 1.599 60ft time, to tight of a converter, on oval ports, 612-636 hydro-roller, hope to make some improvements on that this year, getting the suspension figured out, I'm the guy with the orange nova.I need to get that 60 ft into the 1.40's
or so.

I have run a best of 10.66 @ 125 in a 3450 lb 70 Chevelle. It's a 12.7:1 468 with TRW pistons and factory 3/8 rods. 10.08 @ 130 on a little juice. Vid in my sig.

www.chevellerob.com

The Malibu went 11.29 using tranny brake and 11.32 and 11.34 footbraking.

Pump gas and nothing special oval port 454 with "marine" solid roller, probably not the best cam for the strip.

Went 9.32 on a non prepared track with 1.49 60.ie.

3300lbs car.

781 heads. That engine made 645hp and 67x ft/lbs 468 bigblock. 225-250 shot n20, pump gas.

I gotta make it out to Leicester to see you guys. I ran a best of 12.24 @118.5mph out there with a sloppy 2.15 60'.

Whatched a BAAADARse 68 Chevelle run down into the low tens , makin a bunch of money in the process!

That Weibe suspension is not streetable , is it Craig?

That Weibe suspension is not streetable , is it Craig?

I have driven it on the street, I think that it's pretty much a purpose built set up intended for track use. The car handles well, ride not near as stiff as I thought it would be. There is no rubber used anywhere in it's construction and would be subject to "wear and tear" on the street. I dont give a second thought to going out with the boys for some street time, but I do keep an eye out for chuck holes! I also inspect stem to stern pretty regular, no issues to date. If you were to ask Alf, I think he would say "track only"!

Alfs at work
http://img2.glowfoto.com/images/2007/01/21-0551064571T.jpg (http://www.glowfoto.com/viewimage.php?img=21-055106L&y=2007&m=01&t=jpg&rand=4571&srv=img2)

I installed an Alf Wiebe kit, did the trick for me.

How much for the Alf Wiebe kit?

OOPS!...I ran quicker numbers than you did with a stock F-41 suspension, old cracked rubber bushings, no-hop bars and an airbag. I bet I have less than $100 in my rear suspension....

Why spend so much money when you don't have to?

Oh, and its a pump gas,solid lifter, 408 BBC too....

I'm sure Craig would do much better with a 150 shot too. My 60fts are quicker too and my suspension is still the stock configuration (better control arms and shocks) stock springs with the HRpartsnstuff bolt-in anti roll bar. He was trying to send that pic to Gene, so I posted it. It is a nice level launch, just a little shy of the Ed's though ;)

I'm sure Craig would do much better with a 150 shot too. My 60fts are quicker too and my suspension is still the stock configuration (better control arms and shocks) stock springs with the HRpartsnstuff bolt-in anti roll bar. He was trying to send that pic to Gene, so I posted it. It is a nice level launch, just a little shy of the Ed's though ;)

Well Bob.....I'd do better with 50 more cubes too...

I'm not only "stock configuration" I'm using stock parts...

I just can't understand how people spend thousands suspension to go 10's and 60ft in the 1.4 range when it can be done for pennies..

I think its more about the combo than the cubes, seen to many 496's that wont run with a 454 or your 408 even. And there are many 468's that will outrun mine, mainly because I refuse to up the compression and of course there's the weight factor ;)

It really all depends on what you want to do, go Alfs and you will never need to upgrade the rear suspension again, you will have the best or one of the best suspension setups. As for me, the faster I go, the more tweaking has to be done. I am getting close to have spent what it would have cost me to buy Alfs in the first place, 1300.00 range if I remember right. Then there's the streetability, another reason I've stayed with the stock configuration. I am willing to bet if you continue to go faster, you will be upgrading your rear suspension as well, especially if you choose to bracket race on a regular basis, because consistency is where its at.

Right now I weigh 3520 race weight I'll be upping that by 100 lbs soon....

When I build my next pump gas engine, the 496 it'll run mid to low 10's on motor and high 9's on spray and you know what? Other than better axles and possibly a spool, the rear suspension will remain the same....

This is one of the best (if not THE best) factory suspensions in the world. I say why tamper with what's already proven. Everyday I see people here waste money on crap that does'nt make them any faster yet, they love to throw out names of manufacturers and others.

The SHEEP are impressed....spend 15-20K building a car that can't "Bust a Grape in a Fruit Fight!" and then come here and whine about it....pathetic really.

It really all depends on what you want to do, go Alfs and you will never need to upgrade the rear suspension again, you will have the best or one of the best suspension setups. As for me, the faster I go, the more tweaking has to be done. I am getting close to have spent what it would have cost me to buy Alfs in the first place, 1300.00 range if I remember right. Then there's the streetability, another reason I've stayed with the stock configuration. I am willing to bet if you continue to go faster, you will be upgrading your rear suspension as well, especially if you choose to bracket race on a regular basis, because consistency is where its at.

Ahhh...you make a great point. "if you choose to bracket race on a regular basis, because consistency is where its at." Actual bracket Racers will agree..

Most of these folks will NEVER bracket race regularly...for the rest that do, Alf Wiebe by all means....

Me, I want my car streetable....like the Sheep ;)

I try and do both, the suspension can handle it (the street), its the converter and engine now that keep the street time very limited.

hey bob, are you running a rear sway bar?i took mine off, should i put it back on? i have eldebrock lift bars, and a air bag in r/r.

Ahhh...you make a great point. "if you choose to bracket race on a regular basis, because consistency is where its at." Actual bracket Racers will agree..

Most of these folks will NEVER bracket race regularly...for the rest that do, Alf Wiebe by all means....

Me, I want my car streetable....like the Sheep ;)

I race every chance "BHAAA BHAAA" I get. I go to the track when it's "BHAA" raining, hoping it will quit! "BHAA" I gave away Hotchkis uppers / lowers, springs, KYB shocks "BHAA BHAA" rear sway bar and air bags "BHAA".

"BHHA" Bob "BHAA", thanks for posting the pic. See the 60' timers? I am more than happy with Alf's stuff. Lot's of ways to PLUCK A DUCK. Spray away JJ, I prefer to fill up at Chevron!

1300 bucks is ballpark if I remember right. That's a bargin for something that WORKS! :)

Here's me thinking we should all chip in and get JJ some new bushings before his next track visit, better take a look at the ball joints too!

.......Spray away JJ, I prefer to fill up at Chevron!

1300 bucks is ballpark if I remember right. That's a bargin for something that WORKS! :)

Here's me thinking we should all chip in and get JJ some new bushings before his next track visit, better take a look at the ball joints too!

I run 93 octane, have insurance, an inspection sticker, and a liscense plate and my car will hand yours it's "azz with change" without all a bunch of gee-whiz over priced parts....and I have'nt even tuned on it yet.

I'd bet there are some low 11's on the motor and deeper in the 10's. All this and I have a little over 5K in it...the entire car!

Your right however, there are "Lot's of ways to PLUCK A DUCK." It's just sad that all anyone here seems to do is Pluck it with, Mink lined,Diamond studded Gloves


As far as "chipping in" ya'll please do....I see how ya'll like to waste money ;)

I took a look at the pic in your sig, don't doubt for a second that you have 5 g in your ride. Spend another 3 bucks for a can of Krylon and do something with that hood.:) As for handing me my azz............you would not be the first to do so. No shame in being beat down by an UGLY car.

The difference in an Alf wiebe suspension in my ride, and cheapo equipment, was the difference between hooking radials on a 140 degree track.....and spinning bias plys on a 120 degree track.
I'm sure many have similar experiences with his chevelle kit.

Yea, Brian and the fact that you regularly bracket race your car makes it worth it.

...and I said "Factory" equiptment, not "Cheap" ;)

These guys act like running 10's in a Chevelle is "Rocket Science" when it's been happening for 35-40 years with on bad tracks with slicks that can't hold a candle to today's radial street tires...

Everyday guys get on here and hear you and others talk about parts like Alf Wiebe's set-up and think that it will cure all that is wrong with their cars.
So, they plunk down $1300 for this or that item and in the end someone with and Cheapo-UGLY car like mine hands them their azz and they wonder why???

Brian, you think I'm just blowing smoke? Ask Ed....he'll tell ya that same, cause he's been preaching it for years....
Good example, Ed was 60 footing in the 1.3's or so and had NO wheel screws, while guys here were patting each other on the back for screwing down their slicks on 2.0 60 ft. cars...

I'll take fast, cheap and UGLY over any slow-azz 15-20K car :cool:

BTW, fast, cheap & UGLY allows me to own this as well
http://racepics.net/board/uploads/post-2-1169427453.jpg

Don't look ugly too me!

Don't look ugly too me!

He was talking about my Chevelle being UGLY
http://www.thenebula.com/carpics/pics/DSC00010.jpg

Uh, are my heads holding me back? Most folks say NO, most say fix the launch as your 60' time is soft for your MPH. The guy asks "what did you do to yours" and now we are at what looks like a garage sale at JJ's trailer park.

You left the lights on in the shack, kilowatts down the drain / $ wasted. Could have spent the money on a rattle can for the Chevelle, or maybe another "pro street" sticker for the Nova.

Here's me handing your azz back to you, keep the change! :)

Trailer Park, You'll have to do better than that....Those picture were taken at my old house (which I still own) and now both cars sit in my 30' X 40' shop at my new house....yes, house 3br,2b 2 car garage on 1.5 acres with my shop and my 3 horses. See...I actually have money left over so my family can enjoy the finer things in life...you should try it;)

You handing me my azz back.......ha ha ha, what a laugh :D

Keep reading your magazines and letting Desktop Dyno govern your parts purchases while guys like myself continue to outrun you and still have money left over...Sheep

Hey JJ, Just went out in my shop and looked at my other car. Only sticker on that ride is a current NHRA chassis cert for 7.50's

Don't subscribe to the mags, dont know nothing about DD dyno.

Three horse's? That expains all the horse crap! Here's me thinking it time to muck out the stalls?

WOW this thread was pretty informative until it got ugly.everyone likes to do things different but we still want to hear about it no matter how it was done or how much it cost.Now about those 781,s??anyone else have any times.I cant wait to run mine.>>>>>>>>>>

Hey Pete.....

My car has gone 10.79 getting out of and back in the gas with a 1.599 60ft time, to tight of a converter, on oval ports, 612-636 hydro-roller, hope to make some improvements on that this year, getting the suspension figured out, I'm the guy with the orange nova.I need to get that 60 ft into the 1.40's
or so.


HI Gary....

I think you have alot more in your car also. Jim said something about 60' times 2-3 years ago, he is a very smart guy and being nice (polite) as he is people dont listen to what he has to say as much as they should ( my opinion ). We always seem to remember the loud mouth (at the track/cruise night) for some reason, but that person usualy has no knowledgeable information. I enjoy talking to you guys and cant wait to see what everyones car does this year.

Pete

HI Gary....

I think you have alot more in your car also. Jim said something about 60' times 2-3 years ago, he is a very smart guy and being nice (polite) as he is people dont listen to what he has to say as much as they should ( my opinion ). We always seem to remember the loud mouth (at the track/cruise night) for some reason, but that person usualy has no knowledgeable information. I enjoy talking to you guys and cant wait to see what everyones car does this year.

Pete


Gary did you ever put slicks on your car yet? Myself, Im done with drag radials.

Pete

Pete,

What type / specs of cam are you running? Compression ratio?

Pete,

What type / specs of cam are you running? Compression ratio?



Custom solid ? The compression is 10.5.

Thanks Pete

Custom solid ? The compression is 10.5.

Thanks Pete

What's the specs on your cam? Just curious.

Yea, Brian and the fact that you regularly bracket race your car makes it worth it.

...and I said "Factory" equiptment, not "Cheap" ;)

These guys act like running 10's in a Chevelle is "Rocket Science" when it's been happening for 35-40 years with on bad tracks with slicks that can't hold a candle to today's radial street tires...

Everyday guys get on here and hear you and others talk about parts like Alf Wiebe's set-up and think that it will cure all that is wrong with their cars.
So, they plunk down $1300 for this or that item and in the end someone with and Cheapo-UGLY car like mine hands them their azz and they wonder why???

Brian, you think I'm just blowing smoke? Ask Ed....he'll tell ya that same, cause he's been preaching it for years....
Good example, Ed was 60 footing in the 1.3's or so and had NO wheel screws, while guys here were patting each other on the back for screwing down their slicks on 2.0 60 ft. cars...

I'll take fast, cheap and UGLY over any slow-azz 15-20K car :cool:

BTW, fast, cheap & UGLY allows me to own this as well
http://racepics.net/board/uploads/post-2-1169427453.jpg



Jim,
I think the fact that i want my car to hook in conditions typical rides typically spin is the difference :D
Maybe the goal for me is to find every ounce of ET! and thats the reason...could be ;)
While i do bracket race, the typical approach to bracket racing is Glide/backhalf......not Alf Wiebe suspension, Wheelstands and hooking in 140 degree track temps :D.

Do i agree that you dont need to spend money on what you dont need...sure. However i feel i need $2000 shocks, becuase they made my car work many times better.....and craig feels his chevelle needs An alf Wiebe suspension becuase it made his car work many times better.

My goal is to be the underdog who's on top! That means when the track is greasy, the concrete's showing and the temperature is rising.....and my small radial tire car hooks and wheelstands.....i know my money went in the right spot :cool:

http://img3.glowfoto.com/images/2007/01/23-1920361488T.jpg (http://www.glowfoto.com/viewimage.php?img=23-192036L&y=2007&m=01&t=jpg&rand=1488&srv=img3)

http://img3.glowfoto.com/images/2007/01/23-1930345959T.jpg (http://www.glowfoto.com/viewimage.php?img=23-193034L&y=2007&m=01&t=jpg&rand=5959&srv=img3)

Little ole oval ports at work :yes:

http://img3.glowfoto.com/images/2007/01/23-1920361488T.jpg (http://www.glowfoto.com/viewimage.php?img=23-192036L&y=2007&m=01&t=jpg&rand=1488&srv=img3)

http://img3.glowfoto.com/images/2007/01/23-1930345959T.jpg (http://www.glowfoto.com/viewimage.php?img=23-193034L&y=2007&m=01&t=jpg&rand=5959&srv=img3)

Little ole oval ports at work :yes:

You got that thing working pretty darn good now there Kenny (Rogers that is). :thumbsup: :p :D

Thanks Todd, not a Red Chevelle wheelie, but I'm still workin on it :D

You got that thing working pretty darn good now there Kenny (Rogers that is). :thumbsup: :p :D Hi Bob, I believe i recognize that tower in the background. Glad you got to come down and see what the strip is like since refurbished. The starting line hooks pretty good now when VHT is laid down and should provide some good times this coming season.

I plan on making a trip to Tulsa this March. We only ran 1/8th mile at the CDRA race, I want to make a 1/4 mile pass on that track!!!

Nice! that cars working pretty damn good!

My first 69 Chevelle went 11.70's with 10.25:1 396 closed camber ovals TH400 with 4.56 gears. full interior. Not impressive today but this was back in mid 80's and was a daily driven street car.

Thanks Brian, still working on it. 11's is still impressive if you ask me Joe. Granted there are much faster cars on the street now, and alot of those are still pretty streetable if they use nitrous or a turbo. Start going low 11's,10's or even 9's naturally aspirated and they are borderline fun driving on the street anymore. IMO