I've got a 68 camaro that I'll be starting on this summer and have a rust issue to deal with. The area below the back window glass where it meets my 1/4 panel is rusted. Not through but it looks heavy. My question is if I sandblast this and it doesn't blow holes through it will it be lasting. I thought I could fix this so I just bought 3/4 patch 1/4's to go in. But you see the area also extends into the seem. This is what I'm really worried about. I've got a friend who had the same problem and he blasted it filled the pits and used 2k primer on it. It looks like it's holding but then again his car hasn't seen the weather as it hasn't even been finished with the bodywork. I'll be laying multiple colors on this car and would hate to see this come back and haunt me a year or two down the road. If it was a single color I wouldn't mind all that much, due to being a painter, fixing this wouldn't be a big fuss.

Thanx RandyB..

I am not quite clear on what you have. Is this rust now going to still be there right at the spice where you are welding the patch panel in?

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

The area I'm talking about is where a full quarter would meet the area below the rear window, the peice that is directly above the deck lid. I forget the name of this peice.
If I can't get it rust free I'll have to sell the patch quarter and replace with a full one and the peice above the deck lid.

That is what I thought you meant and then I read too much into your post. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Listen, when you have rust in between panels like that it is VERY hard to stop it. But on the same note, if you weld a new panel in, you will have burnt metal that is just ripe for rusting. I have had good luck with the following method. You sand blast all the rust you can see out. Even under it at the pinch weld and in the seam. If all the rust is gone, at least what you see will be safe. Now on the stuff inside, take a 32nd inch wide cut off wheel and grind out all the sealant and rust down in the seam. Don't grind too much of course or the metal will get thin. Once you have cleaned it all out as much as you can see, use a vinyl wash etching primer top and bottom. The one I use (M-S number 8827 S-W number E2G973) has only a four hour window so you will need to get the 2K primer over it within that time. I would use a urethane. After you have blocked the urethane and recoated (if needed) use a good urethane or epoxy seam sealer in the seam, top AND bottom. Then paint or seal and paint, what ever you are doing. The thing is if you have it sealed top AND bottom no moisture can get in there and it really can't rust. Many guys would use a metal conditioner in the seam, you could do that. The only reservation I have is the worry that you can't get all of it out or neutralized THAT will come back to haunt you as much or MORE than rust!

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Right On MARTINSR. Only other option is to do what he doesn,t want to do, full 1/4 to upper body (deck) panel and clean seam, or replace upper deck panel, and clean 1/4 part of seam. Your option, least cost, and labor.

Yes "More", if I can call you that. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif One other thing that came to mind as I read your post is something that I am sure you will agree with as well. If you were to pull apart the car at every seam it would make you sick to see all the rust that is there. There is rust in the rockers and up under the quarters, under the dash, in the roof rails and for goodness sakes in the roof gutters. All this rust is like the termites in my house. They are there and there is nothing I can do. Tenting the house will only kill them NOW. Next year there will be more, that is just life. What I have to do is be sure they stay to a minimum. The rust is the same way, take care of all you can see and seal it good inside and out. You will go nuts if you think about removing ALL the rust in the car.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

SO TRUE MARTINSR We replace a LOT of panels on vehicles less than 2 years old. The corrosion is already evident. Even the newer glued ones are subject to corrosion. Lower door panels-grim- The treated materials ARE still far superior to the untreated metals in our a-bodys. We use weld thru primers on all welds, (always clean excess as paint won't stick to most). E-coat & caulk all seams. 3M has a great aerosol rust proof product,semi clear and flows great. We use a lot of it and show customer how much better a job of corrosion protection we did than the factory. The only time I like to see runs is that product dripping out the drain holes. Will never understand why the genius's at GM used water based caulks on bare metal pinchwelds, and in th late 60's used that sponge JUNK in lower 1/4 wheel wells. My 68 biscayne 427- 4spd was bubbling with pin hole rust in 1/4 panels after 4 wonderful Minnesota winters. Sold it! Karl

Yes Karl, we use another brand of "cavity wax" (sounds bizarre, but that's what it is called). It does work much better than undercoat as we (the industry) has used for years.
Talk about the runs coming out the drain holes, you'll get a kick out of this. We got a new system for applying the cavity wax in rockers with a long wand. One of those pressure pot jobs with the four feet of plastic hose to run into the rocker. I couldn't figure out the way the pressure and fluid controls worked (the instructions were in German, which my German is limited to the lyrics in a Wayne Newton song) I did my best and after feeding in the line I opened the valve and slowly pulled the wand out as it sprayed out of it's nossal 360 degrees inside of the rocker. After I pulled it out all the way the wax started POURING out of the drain holes! I had applied about a quart in the dang thing! Well, that is one rocker that isn't going to rust! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Thanx Martin. I thought it could be fixed, I just don't normally save parts that are rusted like this. I bought the patch 1/4's to save some bucks and try to keep this project to a minimum as I can install them and make it hard to tell they've been put in. I'm building this car for me and to one day pass on to my kids.

RandyB..