Was watching American Hot Rod tonight and I see them filling pin size rust holes around the rear window of a Mustang with brass. How well does this work? I was thinking I am be able to do this with the pin holes on my 65's filler panel.

Brazing automotive sheetmetal was common practice before the mig welder was available. Just remember to remove all the corrosion before brazing. And get every spec of flux off after it cools. Also some plastic fillers aren't compatable with brass so use some everglass over the brazed areas if any filler is needed. Or body solder will work OK. I'm not sure why some of the regular fillers don't work but I've seen failures happen, seems like the brass corrodes. Maybe because some of the older fillers were so porus? Bob

Never worked with Brass. However, my experience is that Lead is more readily available, cheaper, easier to work with & is not nearly as tempermental about being coated. Works on the same principle as the Brass. In any case make sure theres adequqte ventilation & that you wear a gases rated respirator and be very mindful of your heat source at all times (FIRE potebtial)!

Thanks guys for your comments, will try the brass. Not sure where you would purchase lead or how to work it. What would you recommend for a cleaner after Ive ground down the surface (prior to apply brass)?

After you are done brass welding I would use a baking soda mix to wash. JMO

Eastwood sells leading kits with 1/4 lb blocks of lead included, 99.99. Looks like a pretty good system to me. It's on theier website. Check the link.

http://eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1678&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=lead