alright, heres what i did, sprayed DPLF on the car a year or 2 ago, went to block sand so i first scuffed the hell out of it and put over some high build K38. according to PPG i was supposed to clean, sand and reclean, then recoat with DPLF before applying a topcoat, how big of a deal would it be if i skipped out on the recoat with DPLF and just sprayed the K38? i hope that makes sense, haha

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TireFryin66:
alright, heres what i did, sprayed DPLF on the car a year or 2 ago, went to block sand so i first scuffed the hell out of it and put over some high build K38. according to PPG i was supposed to clean, sand and reclean, then recoat with DPLF before applying a topcoat, how big of a deal would it be if i skipped out on the recoat with DPLF and just sprayed the K38? i hope that makes sense, haha<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
you will run the risk of adhesion problems[although i know of one person who did the same but the car was left inside a heated garage for only a few months]and hopefully yours was not out for 2 years exposed to moisture or sun.if you want to play it safe,recoat it.

ok i already put K38 over the old DPLF, its been in a heated garage the whole time, i know i have to put DPLF over the K38 before i basecoat, would that make everything copasetic?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TireFryin66:
ok i already put K38 over the old DPLF, its been in a heated garage the whole time, i know i have to put DPLF over the K38 before i basecoat, would that make everything copasetic?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

no,the dplf is a etch primer meaning that it is used to bond to metal in order for a primersurfacer to adhere to it better than a primer surfacer going onto bare metal.the basecoat is sprayed onto K38 and not onto DP so at this point sand down the K38,wash,mask,final wash,tack and spray.