Repairing a slick [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Repairing a slick


big454blockchevy
Jan 9th, 07, 9:26 PM
I have some slicks that I got a real good deal on(28x9.5 x15) . Well it turns out that the sidewall has a real small leak . The wear indicators are showing an almost new tire , so I want to see if I could possibly go with tubes and continue to use these slicks. Any input is appreciated. There is no damage to the tires other than what I stated. Thanks

furball8994
Jan 9th, 07, 9:31 PM
Is it seeping or is it a hole? If its seeping, Just run tubes. If its a hole in the side wall, I'd trash it rather than chance a blow out on the big end. Been there, Done that, Not fun!!!!

big454blockchevy
Jan 9th, 07, 9:38 PM
It's seeping , small little air bubbles. No hole, sorta like a needle size leak. So , I guess it looks like I'll be running tubes. I got the slicks(m/t et drags) for $150, and they still have alot of rubber. Thanks :)

big454blockchevy
Jan 9th, 07, 9:48 PM
Well, I checked the other other and the sidewall has a bunch of little air bubbles sipping . Look like the rim ran on the sidewall and the sidewall has a bunch of little air bubbles. I will take them back. :(

furball8994
Jan 9th, 07, 10:09 PM
A friend of mine who runs Large slicks told me once that his new slicks would seep. He said that its a common thing with the thin side walled slicks He was told to spray soap into the tire. He did and it stopped the seeping. Try this. If it works, keep them and run tubes. If not, Give them back

big454blockchevy
Jan 9th, 07, 10:53 PM
Would fix a flat be out of the question here? I would still use tubes. Well , at this point I am wondering if it's safe to run with this tire. The air bubbles that I see are not at the section where the tire and rim mate. It's a little more upward, right around where you have the 28x 9.5x15 lettering.

big454blockchevy
Jan 9th, 07, 11:42 PM
OK, after reading this by Texas20 I will give the slicks a try with tubes.
TUBES AND TUBE TYPE TIRES
When buying tube type tires it is important to understand the reasons behind making a tire tube type and
when it is appropriate to run the tire with or without a tube. The following information will help in the
decision making process.
1. Air retention
Tube type tires are not guaranteed to hold air without a tube. If a tube type tire leaks, it is not
defective. There is a liner molded into the carcass of a tire that seals it and makes it tubeless. This
liner is intentionally omitted from racing tires. This is done primary for weight purposes. More on
that later.
2. Consistency
Without a tube you cannot maintain consistent air pressure. Even the slightest leakage will cause a
difference in the performance of the tire. Therefore if consistency is the primary goal, as in Bracket
Racing, a tube should always be used.
3. Strength
The wrinkling of the sidewall that is visible at launch causes the carcass material in the tire to
break down over time. The more violent the launch the quicker this break down occurs.
Inconsistent 60' times or a drop off of 60' times usually indicate that this is happening. When this
happens the tires should be replaced, regardless of the amount of tread rubber remaining. The use
of tubes strengthens the sidewall of the tire and keeps this breakdown from happening
prematurely, therefore extending the life of the tire. This will save money in the long run.
4. Weight & performance
In some cases it is acceptable to run a racing tire without a tube. When a car competes in a heads
up class, unsprung weight is an important factor. Tires and tubes are all unsprung weight. One
pound of "unsprung" weight is equal to 8 pounds of "sprung" weight. The average tube weighs
about 6 pounds. Therefore, if you eliminate the tubes you have eliminated the equivalent of 96
pounds from the car. For every 10 pounds of unsprung weight removed you may pick up as much
as .01 seconds in quarter mile ET.
5. Cost
All natural rubber tubes are expensive. All M/T tubes are made of Natural Rubber and feature a
clamp down valve stem. There are some inexpensive Butyl rubber tubes on the market. Even some
with clamp down valve stems. Natural rubber is, by far, the better choice. It conforms to the
wrinkles better. Dissipates heat better. And it doesn't get brittle like butyl does. Therefore M/T
natural rubber tubes offer superior performance and will last far longer.
6. Safety
At a racetrack you must check air pressure regularly. This is important to maintain performance
and to insure pressures are not too low. Low pressure can be dangerous.
Never run tube type tires on the street without a tube. Leakage and the prolonged heat build up can
lead to tire failure and serious injury or death. This is not a matter to take lightly.
THE BOTTOM LINE
THE DECISION TO RUN WITH OR WITHOUT TUBES SHOULD ALWAYS BE BASED ON
SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE. NOT COST!
RACING TUBE TECHNICAL SPEC SHEET
MOUNTING PROCEDURES FOR TUBE TYPE TIRES
__________________

2cool
Jan 10th, 07, 12:33 AM
Slicks spin on the rim take em back my slicks don't leak.

big454blockchevy
Jan 10th, 07, 4:37 PM
I thought I had gotten a deal but I took them back. I was ready to fight the guy for my money but he just told me he was sorry and gave me my money back. :)

2cool
Jan 10th, 07, 6:34 PM
Hoosier recommends new slicks every two years used or not for safety you should read what they say on their site you might not want to buy used ones again.

big454blockchevy
Jan 11th, 07, 9:32 PM
I agree with you. The reason I jumped the gun is because the wear indicators were showing alot of meat left and I assumed they had been purchased recently. I should've known better .