This isn't car related and I apologize but with all the resourceful people on here I know someone knows the answer....

My home is plumbed for gas (furnace, water heater) but my cooktop in the kitchen is electric. I'd like to run a gas line down there but am not sure what type of line I have to use (or what is available to do so). I plan on doing most of the grunt stuff myself and have a licensed plumber do the tie in the to existing line w/pressure test. Questions:

1) Is black pipe the only solution or is there another alternative (ie. something like the yellow corregated stuff you buy at home depot to do the short connect to the water heater, etc that comes in long rolls)? It seems like having too many joints is not a great thing.

2) what would be the typical building code for this retrofit? It will likely run throught he attic and down inside cabinets once in the kitchen.

3) should I use gas teflon tape or gas dope?

Thanks for your help.

Check with your gas company if it was here they will pipe it for free when you add a stove, hot water heater, ect
Some times they will give you a deal on the gas appliance when you want to upgrade and still pipe it for free.

I would probably use 3/4" black pipe myself but you can use CSST which is much easier to do.
http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/corrugated-stainless-steel-tubing


Codes vary from city to city so you need to check with your building codes administrator and find out what they accept.

Any type of pipe dope/teflon tape is OK

Any type of pipe dope/teflon tape is OK

I thought you had to use the yellow teflon tape with gas...

Thanks. Where in the world can one buy that CSST? I see a manufacturer of it but can't see where to buy it?

Black pipe isn't that hard to work with. Worst case you have to cut and thread 1 joint in a straight run.
May be the only thing you find locally. I had a hard time finding CPVC for a hot water line.

In our area, you have to be tested and approved by every different manufacturer of csst. Its usually done after a demo on the piping and is no big test. Typically this has been done through the wholesale suppy distributers. I'm not sure its available at retail stores like home depot yet.

I just read the original post again. :o
If no oven is involved, 1/2" pipe is all you need.

I thought you had to use the yellow teflon tape with gas...

Nope, most any good pipe dope is OK for gas or water on iron pipe threads.
It's mostly used as a lubricant since the tapered threads are what makes the seal.

Black iron pipe may be easier to work with than you may think. Many short lengths of pipe can be purchaced at any local hardware store and a cheap pipe threading kit can be purchased from Harbor Freight for $30, for making any length for yourself. Pipe is cheap so any mistakes won't hurt at all.

I would think you could do the work yourself for next to nothing as compaired to paying someone to do it. The lines will need to be checked for leaks before supplying gas regardless of who runs the lines.

Plus you will now have a pipe experience so you can run air lines in your shop now.
Bill

If there are alot of bends, and angles involved, you can also run Trac Pipe, (or you can here in Ga.) All fittings MUST be accessible, as well as cut-off valves. Ask your gas company if they have an approved contractor list. I have had to repair ALOT of leaks from home owners, or their family members/friends, who thought they could run the lines themselves.

I'm confident I could run the black pipe fine, it's just that my service tap will be in the attic above the second floor. It'll be going through cabinets and stuff, so I won't be able to grab 10' pieces and go. In addition, it'll have some twists and turns as I find a route into the first floor. I'd just as soon not have 26 joints and 90's trying to do it clean and out of sight. I'm afraid if I did, it would have a hard time "passing" since I'm guesing the guy who tests it will want to see all the joints. I'm not going to try and tap into the gas line at the furnace - I'm going to pay for that. I think I can buy the CSST from a plumbing supply, it's just expensive as *%^$ (~$3.50/ft). At the end of the day, I think that will be by far the cleanest way to go.

66BB, I did my last compressor plumbing job in my garage in pvc and it worked great. Next time though I will have a water trap built into the line to catch and drain what the primary water catch misses. 60* humidity all the time will accumulate some water!

[QUOTE=

66BB, I did my last compressor plumbing job in my garage in pvc and it worked great. Next time though I will have a water trap built into the line to catch and drain what the primary water catch misses. 60* humidity all the time will accumulate some water![/QUOTE]

Cool::hurray: Good luck on the project.:thumbsup: