What grit do you guyz use on eposy primer that was laid on bare metal ?
How long do you wait for it to dry ?

And then what grit do you guyz use on the catalyst primer ?

You should not need to sand the epoxy. But if you do, I use 220 grit to knock off the nibs.

Check the tech sheets for dry time, really depends on temp and how long it's been applied. If it's gumming up, prob not dry.

Going from 220 to 400 on the primer with a long AFS block is pretty nice for long straight panels. Read SEVT_CHEVELLE's post with pics on this page.

You should not need to sand the epoxy. But if you do, I use 220 grit to knock off the nibs.

Check the tech sheets for dry time, really depends on temp and how long it's been applied. If it's gumming up, prob not dry.

Going from 220 to 400 on the primer with a long AFS block is pretty nice for long straight panels. Read SEVT_CHEVELLE's post with pics on this page.


I used 400 grit on it and layed 2 coats of "regular" primer over it. I'm off to sand it down and apply the basecoat.

If the epoxy primer has gone past it's recoat window a simple scuffing with a red scotchbrite works just fine.

If the epoxy primer has gone past it's recoat window a simple scuffing with a red scotchbrite works just fine.


Can you explain that ? You mean if I apply my primer over the epoxy primer soon after I layed the epoxy primer, then I dont need to scuff it ?

If so how much time do I got ?

Most not all epoxy primers have a recoat time of 7 days. After that 7 days you need to scuff that epoxy before appling any more product. But before that 7 day time frame you dont need to scuff it. Just spray your next product right over the epoxy with OUT any type of sanding.

Personally I sleep better at night if I just scuff it real quick with a red pad after that 24 hr time frame...Eric

Looks like I could have skipped wetsanding the epoxy primer with 400 grit but oh well, at the time I decided I'd rather do it right than doing it twice ;)

If I had skipped wetsanding the epoxy primer, how much time would I need to wait before I layed down the catalyst primer over the freshly layed epoxy primer ?

BTW thanks for the info.. Now onto the other coats.

I ordered very pricey catalyst primer that was supposed to match the color of my car. However it looked paler than the basecoat. Almost pink... well yeah it looked pink :p Layed down 2 coats of that, let it dry for 9 hours. Wet sanded the whole shebang with 600 grit.


Then, the basecoat and the clearcoat was just layed tonight. I love the color :hurray:

I can tell there is a little bit of "orange peel" going on. Dont know how to approach that one. My cousin(the guy that layed the paint down for me) tells me that orange peel is normal and the only way to get it out is wetsanding with a really fine grit 1500/2000 and do a compound. I think I wont messs with it however. After all, were talking about the under trunk and backside of the doors here... not the actual exterior of the car. (I'm doing all of the jams and the under panels and leaving a profesional that I used before on a previous project do the actual fancy body work on the exterior panels)

I'll post pics tomorrow.

Alot has to do with size of the atomization. If you have a good gun, I bet your won't have much orange peel. Fluid flow has a factor and air supply, hard to tell unless you know every little detail.

I would bet it's the gun though. You using the same gun to spray epoxy ?

Alot has to do with size of the atomization. If you have a good gun, I bet your won't have much orange peel. Fluid flow has a factor and air supply, hard to tell unless you know every little detail.

I would bet it's the gun though. You using the same gun to spray epoxy ?


Yes.. its a $50 gravity fed gun from harbor freight.. The "orange peel" is not bad at all, harldy noticeable but I wouldnt want that on my exterior. :noway:

Here are a few pix of the result:hurray:


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/jfboy/DSC01012.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/jfboy/DSC01017.jpg

Id wait around 1hr after spraying the epoxy before you spray another type of product over it...Eric

Do yourself a favor and go get a new gun, no offense but those HF guns are.... well a $50 gun. I would not use the same gun to spray both the epoxy and base and clear. Go get yourself a decent gun.

Besides, how much money have you spent on paint? Way more than a gun costs at this point. I have a Finishline II that I use for Epoxy/primer, I have yet to get anywhere close to shooting base/clear. But, there are better guns out there than the HF that will atomize the paint better and have little to no orange peel. It might cost you over $100 for a decent gun, but I think it would be worth not having to do all that sanding on the clear.

Do yourself a favor and go get a new gun, no offense but those HF guns are.... well a $50 gun. I would not use the same gun to spray both the epoxy and base and clear. Go get yourself a decent gun.

.

I used the same gun but it was properly cleaned between each step.

If I was painting the whole car myself I would buy a nicer gun but I am happy with the quality for it being the jams and underpanels. Lime I say earlier, the peel is very minor.

This is my first build guyz and I want it to look nice but at the same time I cant afford to go all out on it otherwise I'm gonna run out of steam before it's over. Dropping a few benjamins on a gun that I will only use for the door jams and the uderhood is a little much.

BTW I wanna thank you guyz for all the help.

Ahh, gotcha. I thought you were painting the entire car with that gun. You should be fine then.

cool paint the parts at miny storage. well it looked like that. great idea. please get better gun for exterior. you seem to be doing an outstanding job. good luck.

Again, the exterior is getting painted by a professional, at a real body shop.