I'm putting power windows in my 67 Elky and figured it might be easier to remove a door and lay it flat to R&R the window mechanism and easier to drill holes necessary for wiring.

Is there a trick to removing the doors from the hinges and does the fender have to be loosened and pulled out? I'm thinking of removing the door from the hinge and not the hinge from the A-pillar (?). The top hinge doesn't look too difficult - 3 bolts. The bottom looks a bit more difficult with phillips-head type bolts. Assuming I have a helper and even a floor jack to hold the majority of the weight, is they relatively easy to remove without removing the fender?

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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
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DALE my 66 elcamino has phillips head on door half both upper & lower. be sure to outline around hinges with marker b-4 taking off @ door half. there is not much room to work in there, easiest is to use a phillips bit only about 1" long with a small box wrench on shaft. no room for ratchet,might be able to use flat ratchet around phillips bit, don't have one right size to try. alignment of door half hinge is critical, very slight movement in or out at upper has a dramatic result on rear vertical gap width & in out position at rocker -1/4. there are some strange angles in the hinge to door face that result in unusual results when adjusting. example-- slight inward movement at top (at door) results in closing upper vertical gap to 1/4 panel and as would be expected bottom corner edge moves out.my 66 is still in progress (thanks to this site it really motivates me, got more done in last 4 months than last 4 years). do you need to make the large loom holes on hinge pillar & front of door? if not leave door on car. if so remember that the hinge pillar loom hole is forward of the rear edge of fender. may have to pull fender anyhow for hole saw access. mine has factory power windows, they have very large boot holes on door & hinge pillar, boot wire run is size of vacuum line just large enough to accomodate wires, i'm guessing large holes were to accomodate harness plugs when manuf. if you are building up your own wires, and not concerned about original look, you may be able to leave door & fender on, remove glass,vent & kick panels drill small holes to fit wires, using rubber hose for wire boot. i have spent mores hours than i want to admit getting the doors to fit just the way i want.(takes a long time to bring a 66 vehicle to the fit & finish standards we produce today). good luck! sorry for the editorial.

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Hi Dale, I just installed power windows in my 67 elcamino. I believe I talked to you before on this subject. I removed the doors to drill the holes in the A post and door, this took about 2 hours to complete. Fortunately the bolts came out with no problems, I might suggest using WD 40 or ? to soak the area and let it sit for a day. Make sure you mark the hinge location on the door before removing it. I installed a factory harness with Electric Life regulators. If you are using the factory harness, 3 holes must be drilled. 2" hole saw for the A post, 1 3/8 for the door and 1 5/16 for the inner panel(I used a step drill for the smaller holes. These are used in the sheet metal trade and work quite well) As for the rest of the system, The regulators bolted right in place using the manual regulator holes. Single switch is available reproduction and the 2 button is still available through GM. The retainers are not available anymore. I found a couple of used ones that I had to modify. I did have a problem wiring the stock harness to these regulators. Check out the electrical area in this sight, I had a fellow work out a wiring diagram for me that worked excellent.

Tim