My new Chevelle project has a very leaky steering box... Fluid actually poured from the BOX when I jacked up the rearend!

I guess that means the seals are bad :D

Anyway, just trying to get an idea of how much a seal kit will cost (or can buy seals separately)... I assume its probably a good idea to change the pitman bearings at this time, right?

Do I need to disassemble the entire box? This is just a temp (cheap) fix. IF I keep this car, I will do a complete fresh box eventually...

I saw another post where someone bought a used Jeep Quick box off Ebay for under $60 shipped... Seems to good to be true... Is that the going rate?

Thanks, Tony

It's probably the pitman shaft seal. It's easy and inexpensive if you want to hold off on the GC box.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127202&highlight=pitman

I need to check into this myself a bit further... but awhile back when I was looking for the end cap O-ring at Napa there was a reference to a seal kit.

I doubt anybody bothers changine bearings in these boxes.

This for the '66? I have a box I pulled out of my '68 when I put in a '73 Z28 fast ratio box sitting on my garage floor. Seemed to be leak free when I pulled it out.

Looking today Napa online lists complete seal kits for about $45 for every seal in the box. They also list input shaft and pitman arm subsets.

You will have to take most of it apart to put the new seals in. I am not entirely sure but you may be able to leave the worm and rack in and thus avoid dealing with the notorious recirculating balls.

I have put new bearing and seals in one before, but it was years ago... I'd really like to go to a Quick box, but right now, I am not sure if I even want to keep the car...

I seem to recall being able to drive a small screw into the Pitman seal, and then pull it out (aren't there 2 seals?)... Thinking about trying that, and maybe just replacing one seal for a temp fix...

Of course, I am thinking the leak might be the pitman bearings, allowing the sdhaft to move around, so maybe new seals won't help...

Augh!

Not sure if I want the hassle and expense of swapping a box if it isn't a Quick ratio... But maybe...

Yeah I kinda know what you mean. I am on the fence on my current box about whether to go through the trouble of changing *ALL* the seals or just finding a dry box in the wrecking yard. The Pick-n-Pull option starts to sound pretty good, especially if I could hit a 1/2 price day :thumpsup:

I even picked up the late model Chevy pickup steering coupler needed for the Jeep GC box conversion the other day just for grins. Unfortunately while I saw a Jeep Cherokee I did not see a GC in the yard. Might have to go south for a look.

I think you can get a rebuilt unit for $130-140 from the parts store, and that's completely rebuilt. IMO, it's not worth the hassle trying to just change seals for $45.

I hear you. The tradeoff to me is to what degree can you trust, or control, the selection of specific components. Fast steering gear ratios are fairly common/simple. But in particular I would like a larger sized T-bar in the box. That tends to put it beyond the simple and cheap rebuilt box.

I hear you. The tradeoff to me is to what degree can you trust, or control, the selection of specific components. Fast steering gear ratios are fairly common/simple. But in particular I would like a larger sized T-bar in the box. That tends to put it beyond the simple and cheap rebuilt box.

Yeah, you won't get the very best parts in a $130 rebuild, that's for sure, and you can't control the selection of parts at all. If you want to do that, you'll probably have to rebuild yourself, or order it from someone who builds custom steering boxes.

Still, the parts store rebuilds are cheap enough for me to take a chance, and also avoid the frustration of working on something I don't know anything about. :D

Yeah, you won't get the very best parts in a $130 rebuild, that's for sure, and you can't control the selection of parts at all. If you want to do that, you'll probably have to rebuild yourself, or order it from someone who builds custom steering boxes.

Still, the parts store rebuilds are cheap enough for me to take a chance, and also avoid the frustration of working on something I don't know anything about. :D


I found a Caprice with 9C1 option at Pick-n-pull... I also bought the bearing/seal it, but decided to just buy an AGR when the box in my car starting having problems (noticible "bind" over center)... I sold the Caprice box and rebuild kit for about what it cost me (to another TC member, no longer here)... Kind of wish I had it back...

I hear you on the cost versus buying cheap rebuild... But when the "cheap" rebuild (~$130 + tax) is about 1/2 of what a nice new true Quick box (with stiff T-bar and "early" rag-joint spline), then it becomes another dilemna; $150+ time at the junkyard finding/pulling asuitable ragjoint, or $300+ delivered to my door in 2 days, nice, clean and guaranteed...

If I was sure I was keeping the car, it'd be a no brainer... If the box didn't leak too bad, no brainer (just wait)...

Damn!

Or just get a "stock" used replacement for about $20, swap it and take my chances it doesn't leak...

In a way I worry less about the time since this is enteraintment to me. Shoot I have already learned way more about Saginaw steering boxes than I every anticipated (BTW it is not a good thing when balls start falling out).

The counter point is that it takes me awhile to actually *get* to the project. So replacement starts to be a consideration.

I have an email query out to get some more information... but I wonder just what the particulars are about this little item:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=LRS&mfrpartnumber=971&parttype=255&ptset=A

A "race car only" power steering box... now what do you think could make it race car only??? And at a decent price too.

BTW Tony you have a PM.

Edit: that link may not be entirely useful... it points to a steering box rebuilt by Lares Corporation at Kragen Auto Parts. The part number is 971 and it is listed as a "Race Car Only" option for a '70 Chevelle and only $120. There is no data on steering ratio or anything else besides the race car only.

I got a response from Earl Wells at Lares... did not tell me too much:


Sorry can't give you size on the t-bars
971 - 3 turns lock to lock small in put
972 - 2.6 turns lock to lock large in put
1282 - 2.6 turns lock to lock small in put o-ring lines
1353 - 3- 4 turns lock to lock small in put o- ring lines

So the 971 is sold sold as a race box. The 1353 is the basic Monte Carlo box, 1282 as the Monte Carlo SS box, and 972 is the fast ratio Chevelle box.

Now if the steering stops are set in the Chevelle position for a +/- 43.5* travel range, that 2.6 turns works out to a 10.8 steering ratio :eek: Of course it is also quite possible that this is a 12.7 ratio Camaro box with +/- 36.8* steering stops too. Actually they list the same number for Camaro so there you go.

Cannot really tell exactly what small versus large input says, I might have thought/hoped T-bar size but on a second look that may actually be input shaft size.

So bottom line the specifications are all mixed up and they either cannot or will not tell you particulars. Or what you end up is basically a bit random based on what kind of core parts they have to work with.

Got me thinking on that Lare's box... I also put in an email. I specifically inquired about the specs (input shaft, and ratio), so maybe they will give me some better info...

I see where PartsAmerica lists it as a replacement (but Racecar), but the Lares info (previously listed) about the input shaft size has me wondering... If its a direct bolt in 12.7:1 box for $120, that sounds great... If I have to buy/scounge up a ragjoint, then not as nice of a deal...

I used to have one of the "hybrid" ragjoints, but might have given it away...

Hope you get better info. Might also need to have the steering range as part of the question/parameters since they use the same part numbers on so many different cars. And we *know* that those cars used different steering ranges. I really liked the potential for the Lares race box too, but between the part number overlaps and hazy response I am just not sure I can trust what I would get. I did wonder if I would get a better response if I mentioned the international bulletin board discussion going on about their products?

Note FWIW that it is a special order item and not available at your local neighorbood Kragen's.

Depending on your standards, the hybrid ragjoints are not difficult to come by. I picked up one just the other day in case a really good deal on a Jeep GC box comes along. I keep thinking the next half price day would be a good time to go shopping...

Yeah, I picked up a nice used ragjoint a while back, but been too busy to go scrounging the yards...

"Special Order"... I am assuming they (Kragen's) will still refund ALL my money IF it doesn't fit the intended/stated application (either 3.0 turns L-L OR the 86+/- degree "Chevelle" turning range and it wouldn't be correct)... As we know, 3.0 turns AND the 86+ degree sweep WILL be a 12.7:1 quick box...

Cleaned, sealed, go rebuilt condition for $120, MIGHT be worth a closer look, even if it has a smaller T-bar...

be sure to avoid getting a box meant for a Camaro/Firebird. I have one of those on my car now as temp while building the Chevelle box. Murder in parking lots, must have about 75 ft turning radius or something.

Rebuilt stock Chevelle box with late variable ratio gears, kept the Chevelle stops.

You could at least swap the end caps and get back your turning radius to the left side. Aside from dumping the fluid it is a pretty easy tweak.