Good News is I laid down my first three coats of paint tonight.. Bad news is I got some bad seperation.. I had put some filler where the seperation is HOWEVER I put it in other places as well atthe same time, Coated them with primer, allowed to dry, Prepped painted and BANG seperation in two places and a little blister in one other spot.. Any ideas what could have caused it? Everything was prepped sanded and cleaned the same way, and I even paid more attention to the spots that were filled??? Take a looksie!
http://www.normieschevelle.com/badpaint.jpg
http://www.normieschevelle.com/bad2.jpg
http://www.normieschevelle.com/good.jpg

Man I need a better digital cam http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif any info on how to prevent this from resurfacing would be appreciated...

On the bright side.. Look at the depth of the metallic in the Bad2 pic http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by normie (edited 05-25-2001).]

How long did you let the primer dry? What kind of primer was it? what did you sand it with? It looks like you didn't wait long enough for the primer to dry. You odviously got a lifting problem there.If you soaked the first coat to hard this can bleed into the primer and cause this problem. respond back with details.

How far away were you holding the spray gun from the surface? I've had this happen because the paint gun was too close. The paint won't atomize properly if the gun is too close or if the fan pattern is too narrow.

[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 05-26-2001).]

I used House of Kolor Ko-Seal 2 White primer over an epoxy base that the tank came with. Waited a week to dry. Wet sanded with 400 grit, and cleaned with lacquer thinner (waited 2 hours) then tacked. Mind you Every thing else I painted did not lift like this! I held the gun 5-6 inches (recommended by HOK) from surface with a 6" fan. The only thing I can think of is that the areas I filled with (glaze) on the tank are in about the same spot and could have trapped some solvent or absorbed the thinner I used.. Or some other contaminate!

Normie, first off don't use lacquer thinner to clean, it is MUCH to harsh and at the same time it flashes too fast and does not remove the contaminates. The "wax & grease" removers can vary but generally they have high amounts mineral spirits (or even straight mineral spirits) which is a "weak" solvent that won't attack the substrate and it stays wet so you can wipe off the contaminates with it.

I suspect that the problem is the HOK sealer was sanded thinner in those spots (aren't they on a corner, where it usually gets thinner?) The thin sealer wasn't providing the "barrier" it was designed to. The lacquer thinner may have played a roll in softening the thin point on the sealer also.

So when you painted, the solvents were able to penetrate the sealer and get under it....causing the lift.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

[This message has been edited by MARTINSR (edited 05-26-2001).]

I would bet that that is it! Darn and Lacquer thinner was the fastest thing to clean.. I think it was a combination of the crap primer the tank came in, and my using the thinner to wipe it down with.. Probably trapped crap under the glaze and seperated because of the solvents and muck getting trapped in the "glaze" on the corners where the coverage was thin.. Chalk one up to BTDT experience.. Time to take the tank down and do it again.. WoooooHoooo more experience..

normie, remember it isn't the "crap" primer it is the HOK sealer that got sanded thin and the solvents got under the sealer and the HOK sealer pulled away from the primer. The brand of products didn't have much to do with it. It is a common thing to happen, when the solvent can get under a feather edge it can do the same thing. It usually happens because product wasn't sanded well and therefor the next product doesn't stick. So when just a little solvent gets under this product that isn't sticking well to begin with it comes up in the form of a "lift" or wrinkle. I am not saying you didn't sand the primer well, I am just saying that it is a common thing.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

So to keep it from happening again, I need to go a bit heavier and sand well? I did sand the heck outta it but I'll bet I caught the "corners" a bit harder.. The only thing that get's me is that the tank was the only peice to do this. I painted two "Ears" and the rear and front fenders as well and all came out fine save the tank. Maybe I favored that corner because of the filler in that area?

That is exactly right. Obviously it is hard for me to say over a computer monitor exactly what has happened, but it sure seems that is it.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Thanks http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif time for round 2 http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

martinsr Looks exactly like what you said happened; happened. The solvents lifted everything down too the "Glaze".. Now the question is Do I remove all of the paint to the primer or should I concentrate on the area that lifted and then paint the whole tank again? Or should I take the tank down to the primer stage, re-prime and paint? I'm leaning more towards the remove all the paint... But wanted some advise http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

normie, you are on the right track, removing all the paint would be the way to go. But if you wanted to cheat, just to learn if for nothing else, you may be able to save this. If you sand out the wrinkles and feather it nicely with 500 or 600. Then LIGHTLY dust the base on. Letting the base flash off good between coats (20 or 30 minutes minimum). You can build up that "barrier" because the base isn't very aggressive. Now this of course is cheating, so it depends on the "value" of the project to you. Then next time you could be more thorough. I only say this because sometimes it pays to know what you can make it do so you know what NOT to do.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Hey Normie.. When painting, your going to learn something new everytime. That's the fun in painting.HAHA MartinSr tip might work. But you might run into problems down the road later by not taking it all the way down. I had this problem on a 67 camaro hood and did what Martin said. Looked good for about 6 months, then it started to rear it's ugly lil head again due to shrinking. Take it down and do it right, and you'll know with peace of mind. RandyB..

Well for an update I just went ahead and took the tank down to bare metal.. Thank goodness I did.. Or in a few months to a year I woulda been sorry.. The guy that primed the tank was hiding something http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif Five Hughe dents and he bondoed directly over the old paint and rust, as well as only using what seemed to be "Rattle can Primer" and didn't care how the filler was applied (looks like one big glop was used then sanded to heck) so I took my time and straightened out the issues and then epoxy primed the tank.. I feel worlds better!! Thanks for all the great info!

Hey normie. Glad you did it the right way.
Just goes to show people what I mean about taking their cars down to bare metal.
I'm not saying that it is always necessary.
It's just a fail safe way of knowing (exactly) what you got to work with.

Good luck and I'm sure it will turn out awesome.

RandyB..

Some pics of my 70 and other cars I've owned
and painted.. www.angelfire.com/ky2/mycars (http://www.angelfire.com/ky2/mycars)