sealing seams and painting floors [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: sealing seams and painting floors


Andy69
Jan 1st, 07, 10:05 AM
Ok, I've gotten the floors in.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157303

I had a question as to how to go about sealing the seams and painting. I plan to use seam sealer and epoxy primer but I'm not sure about the order or if I need to use any other product.

Can I use POR15 or RE or something over the bare metal first, then seam sealer, then epoxy? Or just spray the epoxy over the whole mess, then use the seam sealer? I'm concerned about rust starting in the seam, so I want to get something into the seam to protect it. I was already careful to remove the old primer and EDP only in the small areas where I'd be plug welding but there are some bare spots I want to protect.

How do I prep the surface for the epoxy? I was planning on just hitting the bare metal areas with some 80 or 120 grit or a wire wheel, and scuffing the EDP with a scotch pad or 200 grit.

Also, how much time to I have to get the epoxy and sealer on? Should i do it now or can it wait until after I finish the rest of the body work (perhaps 6 months to a year).

Thanks, guys!

Andy

rubadub
Jan 1st, 07, 11:17 AM
Heres a start

Primer Questions (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125720&highlight=roll+epoxy)
hoppy

Some type of epoxy on the bare metal as soon as you can, do all the seam sealer over the epoxy at a later date.

Rob

rubadub
Jan 1st, 07, 11:22 AM
You could type in ( brush on epoxy ) in the search, theres some stuff.

Don't you hate to cover up that masterpiece? :)

DRHRSH
Jan 1st, 07, 11:31 AM
Hey Andy,
Sounds like your making good progress! I used PPG DP40 primer over bare metal. Prepared the metal with Metal Prep, also from PPG. I have been very happy with 3M Seam sealer, $12.00 a tube ( caulking tube) but works great. It's available at your Auto paint store. Depending on how anal you are ( I am ) you can use a finger wetted in water to smooth it out! Good Luck

ss396boy
Jan 1st, 07, 11:34 AM
Andy, I'm going to be doing the same thing in the next week. I plan on hitting the corners with 80 grit so the epoxy has something to stick to. Then shoot the epoxy, and then lay down the seam sealer.

This is the best approach since you will have extra corrosion protection with the epoxy on the metal. In my opinion, Seam sealer over the bare metal doesn't seem like the best approach.

Are you planning on knocking down the welds at all?

Andy69
Jan 1st, 07, 11:55 AM
Are you planning on knocking down the welds at all?

I've ground them down a little already, but I might hit them again to smooth them out. I'm not too concerned, since they will be covered with sound deadener and carpet anyway.

350_Malibu
Jan 1st, 07, 1:51 PM
Andy,

What ever you do, don't use the 3M fast n' firm seam sealer (someone recommended that to me a long time ago). I used it in my wheel wells and it only took a month to start cracking. Luckily I have not top coated it yet, so I will be cutting that crap out for some better quality stuff. Someone else recently recommended 3M UltraPro Seam sealer or something like that. Don't remember the exact name. Something about the base of the fast n' firm sealer being petrolium based causes the cracking or something like that.

For what it's woth, I used epoxy primer in the wheel wells over scotch brited EDP. In the trunk I used Por15 (brushed on) in the seams then seam sealed with the (crappy) fast n' firm (which I will be replacing). Under the car, I used Por15 over the seams then used the 3M brushable seam sealer. The brushable stuff did not crack on me, but it looks like factory seam sealer.

Also, I don't think Por15 is any better for sealing out water then epoxy primer. And I think the epoxy primer looks better anyway!

Good luck.

ss396boy
Jan 1st, 07, 2:17 PM
Ya, I'm leaning towards using the Por in the seams and then spraying the entire floor with epoxy. I'll do that after it warms up here in a month or so.