In the on going saga with the learning how to do body work i have yet even more questions that i hope you guys can help me with…

1) how hard is it to replace front fenders?
2) taking the fender off, anything i should look for?
3) getting the fender on how close do the skins fit? Will i need to do any "massaging" to get the space between the door and fender to fit?
4) If the radiator support is rusted how hard is it to get this thing out of the car? Will I have to dismantle most of the body on the front end?

Thanks guys i really appreciate the help…


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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)
"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"

The main thing to watch out for when removing front fenders is the location of the shim packs. At the aft end of the fenders are two shim packs, one at the top mount and one at the bottom, if memory serves. Let me see if I remember this correctly as well. The top shim pack helps align the fender with the upper door edge, while the bottom shim pack actually increases or decreases the bulge of the fender to help it conform to the contour of the door. If I got this backwards, someone please correct me. The point is, watch where those shims fall from, and mark them so they are reinstalled where they belong.

There's another shim pack at the firewall that controls fore and aft movement of the fender. If the fender is moved forward with these shims, it must also be adjusted at the front or it wil bulge out over the wheel. It's pretty tricky and requires patience, but you've got a great source of help on this forum. Ask a question when you get into a jam and someone's probably been there and can help.
Rich
Rich

First if I was you I would go and get a factory assembly manual they cost around thirty bucks and well worth it, the best thing I ever bought the chevelle. Replacing fenders is not hard if you know the tricks. Any panel NOS or repo will need some type of "massaging" to fit right. You have to remember these cars are thirty years old and produced in an era where the manufactures didnt care all that much about the fit.

And yes the most important thing to do is look for those shims and the number and location before you remove them. If you dont you'll end up lost and pissed.

To replace the core support you might get by with just loosing the bolts that hold it to the fenders but I doubt it. Most cars require one fender removed. If you look at the bottom of support you will see a bracket on each side that bolts to it with three bolts and then one big bolt to the frame. Remove just the three bolts dont remove that bolt to frame as that can mess up your aglinment.

Now you can remove the support, in your case it would be best to leave one fender bolted to car, that way you can get the proper alginment without all the headaches that would come when removing the whole front.

cool guys thanks for all the help so far, where can i get one of these books? are they still producing them?

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)
"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"

You can buy them on ebay, tons of them listed. Also the resto companies like year one or ground up, original parts group, sells these books. A fisher body manual would also be a big help to you too. It describes how certain itmems are reomved and adjusted. It also costs around thirty bucks...Eric

cool guys i appreciate the help as always…

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)

"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"