: Removing Interior Door Panels:
Stewart G. Griffin Dec 29th, 06, 5:27 PM i need a little help removing the inner door panels.
If we take a look at the following photograph, we can see that i've taken bolts 1+2 out which secure the armrest to the door. Then i took out the larger bolts 3+4.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g110/eletrikal/interior.jpg
What exactly do i need to do next? Please be very detailed in your answers. The one word responses just don't cut it. Thanks in advance.
For example:
1) Does the crank handle need to come off? If so, do i need a special tool or can i improvise?
You get the picture.
JWagner Dec 29th, 06, 8:16 PM The crank handle comes off. You can use a special (inexpensive) tool or improvise. Push the door panel outwardly near the crank and look in at the crank. There is a wire clip shaped like an Omega that holds the crank on the shaft. You can push it off with a putty knife or drag a piece of cloth between the crank and the door panel. That should pull it off.
As for the rest of the panel, it likely has those "fir tree" shaped plastic fasteners that must be brutally pried out. Once again, the putty knife can get in between the panel and the door. Expect to replace some of those fasteners. If it has the old-style metal clips, they can be re-used without problem.
philbay Dec 30th, 06, 6:26 AM dont forget the door button on the top of the panel,not shown in the photo. What year ,model. ??? I would re post the request with all the info. Im familar to just a few of rides I have worked on. But basically all the same. Pry bar like J wagner says and be careful.. Find a manual.. Good luck and happy new year.. phil
Stewart G. Griffin Dec 30th, 06, 1:49 PM 79 monte carlo
And, actually the top part does not need to come off as evidenced by the following illustration:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g110/eletrikal/mc9.jpg
So anyways, we are now up to the door latch which was my reason for taking the interior panels off in the first place. We notice that there are two rivets securing the latch to the door.
How do you suggest i get these off?
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g110/eletrikal/mc8.jpg
Ark68SS Dec 30th, 06, 2:08 PM Unless you have very sharp teeth, a Black & Decker 3/8" 110 v variable speed drill motor plugged into a 110v receptacle with a sharp 1/4" high speed steel drill bit rotating clockwise at around 1000 rpm should do it. Be sure you are pressing rather hard on the drill motor whilst applying the bit to the center of the rivet to drill it out. :rolleyes:
BillL
mmurphy77 Dec 30th, 06, 6:44 PM Unless you have very sharp teeth, a Black & Decker 3/8" 110 v variable speed drill motor plugged into a 110v receptacle with a sharp 1/4" high speed steel drill bit rotating clockwise at around 1000 rpm should do it. Be sure you are pressing rather hard on the drill motor whilst applying the bit to the center of the rivet to drill it out. :rolleyes:
BillL
LOL, I see you know this guy!
69ssmike Dec 30th, 06, 7:24 PM Might want to put the window in the up position also:D
surmin69 Dec 30th, 06, 8:52 PM Safety glasses and hand protection also!! :D
Ark68SS Dec 30th, 06, 10:02 PM Might want to put the window in the up position also:D
Yes, that's a good idea. In order to do that, install the window handle on to the regulator stub, but don't install the clip on the handle. Use one hand to press the handle against the stub and turn the handle in the proper direction (either clockwise or counterclockwise) with the other hand to raise the window to the top. Then remove the handle, put on your eye and hand protection and proceed as per my first post.
BillL
Bowtie-72 Dec 30th, 06, 10:55 PM You might as well tell him how to unclip the lock actuating rod from the lever too.
Stewie: Will you be re-attaching this, or just gutting the door for some bodywork as planned on a different post?
Ark68SS Dec 31st, 06, 12:01 AM You might as well tell him how to unclip the lock actuating rod from the lever too.
No, all he asked was how to get the rivets out. Removing the actuating rod will be the subject of another post. :clonk:
BillL
Stewart G. Griffin Jan 3rd, 07, 1:56 PM Ok, i got everything fixed and buttoned up on saturday.
I drilled out the rivets and then used machine screws and blue loctite to secure the replacement latch to the door. The latch was $20 at the local salvage yard.
Thanks everyone for your help.
For the next "problem" please go to the electrical and wiring section.
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