I've got a '65 chevelle in the shop right now. I had the car sandblasted before the shop started working on it. They're telling me the hood is ruined because the sandblasters removed all the seam sealer between the inner bracing and the hood skin. Now the hood skin is not flat, it moves up and down when you place your hands on it. Is there any way to fix this, the hood is in great shape otherwise? The car will be painted black, and all that uneven hood surface has the 'body' guys telling me to find another hood. Has anyone ever dealt with this before?

The hood is probably no good now. If the sandblaster that you used had much experience with automotive sheetmetal he would've known that sandblasting a large flat panel like a hood, door skin, quarter panel will warp the sheemetal before the paint is removed. The sand hitting the metal causes enough friction/heat to warp the metal beyond the value of the time it takes a skilled person to repair it. I've had good luck sandblasting door jambs, window channels and other places that the metal is harder to warp due to the way that it is formed. Anywhere there are corners formed in close proximity to each other is stronger than a wide open "flat" sheet. "The hood is probably no good now" was a nice way to say "It's toast" Sorry man.

Yep, this is how I ruined the roof on my 66...

I'll never sandblast a car body again...

If the company blasted out the material between the skin and the inner bracing can't something new be put back in. Blasting in my view is line of sight and I would think a new material could be put back in. It might take a extension nozzle to get in there but it might be worth it to try.
On my 73 Nova with the high power stereo, I had a problem of the roof skin vibrating on the inner structure support for the dome light. I used Liquid Nail in a cartridge gun and bridged the gap between the underside of the roof skin and the inner structure. It took a while to dry but I do not remember any extra body work that was caused by glueing the two parts together. To this date (10+ years) I have not had problems with any rattles in that area, I have not seen any distortion caused by glueing it, and if I had the choice I would do it again. Just something you might think about.
I would also be worried about getting the sand out from behind areas that it's trapped in as this can retain moisture and possibly cause rust problems later.
Jim/Saint Louis

That's one reason why I asked this question to begin with. I was thinking we could separate the skin from the bracing just enough to apply new seam sealer, and this might stop the hood skin from flopping around so much. Even if this helped, the hood surface is no longer perfectly flat, this is my real concern. It's aggravating because otherwise, this hood has no rust, no dents - it perfect except for what happened to it during the sandblasting.

try putting seam sealer or some other body putty back between there, you should be alright.

Chaulk up another body panel thrown in the trash due to sandblasting graemlins/sad.gif

Does the hood flop around JUST because the foam sealer is gone or because the sand blasting destroyed it?

If it just moving around because of no sealer then you can add more sealer in there. 3M, SEM, wruth and fusor all make products to replace that sealer. With no need to remove the outer skin.

Anyway I HIGHLY doubt the problem is from NO sealer between the bracing and skin, theres NO WAY that a blaster can remove that sealer, WONT HAPPEN.

Basically all you have now is a junk panel that you MIGHT be able to use up if you need a piece of metal for a patch panel.

If the hood is toast what else is??? Thats why you should NEVER EVER EVEN THINK OF SANDBLASTING BODY PANELS...Eric

Replacing the adhesive is not that big of a deal, but if your shop is saying the hood is junk because of warpage then you can be sure it probably is. When sheetmetal is blasted it expands usually unevenly so warpage takes place. The underside of the hood can be safely sandblasted if the exposed areas of the outer skin are protected. If these exposed areas of the skin are blasted you will see warpage in these areas. If the warpage doesn't look too bad, place the hood upside down and apply bare metal primer, then move your sawhorses so the weight of the hood is supported by it's outer edges-this will allow the skin to hang in a natural position. Now apply your adhesive and let fully cure, flip the hood over and check it with a long sanding board, you may find it salvageable. If not start looking for a replacement, and be careful with the blaster! smile.gif

Now I am worried again, I started to blast my 69 roof in places that were heavily pitted but stopped and used a strip disk to finish the rust removal. It is now covered with 2 coats of DP50LF and it looks straight, except for the pitts I need to fill, Am I going to find it is worped when I long board it, or if it looks good in epoxy am I OK? :confused:

If the guy doing the sandblasting worked hard enough to remove all the sealing putty,your hood is for sure warped. Sorry. I sold a perfect 69 GTO ram-air hood to a local kid some years back and when he told me he was going to have it sandblasted,warned him not to do it. He did and told me later it got ruined and would I by chance have another hood for sale.

zachscc, wipe your roof fown with wax and grease remover to give it somewhat of a shine, you will see if there is any warpage. Bob

Umm, I have a 68 hood that has all sorts of rubber coating on the underside... how would ya'll suggest removing this?
I was considering a wire wheel on a hand grinder???
Sorry about your hood man... wish we could help. :confused:

We had the same thing happen when I restored my cousins 65, the body shop had the hood blasted which turned it into an ocean, they had to find and purchase a new hood, and strip it the old fashioned way. They ate the cost.