I was just wondering if anyone on here is running a Art morrison 9 inch setup on their chevelles. And if so, if they like it? pros? cons?

I am also up for any other 9 inch setups that racers are using.

Thanks

I use Mosers complete bolt in 9". It has treated me good so far. I got mine with their 35 spline alxels and a detroit locker. I have since swapped the locker for a spool but I never had any problems with the locker.

How strong is your motor?

I have the same Moser 9" rear as stated above except I am still using my detroit locker. Have been beating on it for 5 years now. No problems..

For my first BB build i went with a 420hp 500ft/lbs mild 468, I plan later on to put alot more power in my chevelle. I have decided I would only like to do the rear end once, and make it as bullitproof as possible. I have been thinking about getting the moser 9inch with (35spline)axles and then buying a strange pro iron center section rated at 1000hp, with a detroit locker.

I have now been looking at art morrison and was wondering if anyone else is using them. More info on any 9 inch rear is much appriciated, as this is going to be quite spendy.

Im thinking of the stronger Dana 60 axle.

Heavy chevelles will ruin 9" and 12b rear gears...

danny miller does excellent work. great follow through and does not leave you hanging. the fabbed 9 inch i bought looked like a piece of artwork. check prices then call him. i found his number by doing a search on here his garage is in the st. louis area. i also went with umi uppers and lower adj. control arms. should be rock solid unit with years of enjoyment.

I just changed over to moser 9 inch with a detroit locker 35 spline axles 4.30 ratio. The rear axle assy seems to way 100lbs more than the 10 bolt I took out. You will have to cut the backing plate holes bigger if you are going to use your chevy brakes. Also on hard accel at 60-70 car likes to move left when you get out of it and the locker unlocks. 10 bolt was built but the c clip axle setup is not the best. 454ho with auto gear m22 pro charger on the way. I think the 9 inch will be the last thing to break in my set up.

Daryl how much did your setup end up costing you?

I have a question. What is the highest ring and pinion ratio that can be used in a chevy 12 bolt or a ford 9 inch and have posi / limited slip ? 3.08 2.72 ?

$2137 free shiping. Bought at the denver NHRA drag races had special on the freight.

Im thinking of the stronger Dana 60 axle.

Heavy chevelles will ruin 9" and 12b rear gears... Not true. We have had a Currie street 9" in my son's Chevelle for the past 12 years without one single problem. We upgraded to 35 spline stuff a couple of years ago but never even hurt the 31 spline axles or spool that came in it originally. Nine inch Fords are a very good design in that they are supported on both ends of the pinion gear and don't spread like a spicer rear gear set. The excess space created when the gears spread is what causes ring gear breakage in the 12 bolt. I do know a guy who broke a Dana 60 axle but it's not a common problem.

Check these guys out.
A few have used his rear ends here and they have gotten good reviews.
ebay site http://stores.ebay.com/Quick-Performance-Racing
online site http://www.quickperformance.com/Products/rearends.htm


Heres an email price quote I got from them. Best price Ive found on a complete assembled 9" with 11" drum brakes.
Mitch-
Here is what we can do on a complete 9" rearend for your 73 Chevelle:

$715 - 9" Housing, Axles, Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs, & Retainers
$1370 - Center Section (Strange Nodular Pro N-Case, Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support, 1350 Billet Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Pro/Street 3.70 Gears, 35 Spline Detroit Locker, & Timken USA Bearings)
$275 - 11" Drum Brake Kit (New Drums, New Shoes, & All New Internals)
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$130 - SHIPPING (UPS Ground 1-DAY)
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$2490 - TOTAL

This would be a complete 35 spline setup, with new Moser axles, and a brand new center section with all new components. Something like this would take around 4-5 days to get built and ready to ship. You are 1-Day away via UPS Ground shipping.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
BRYDON
641-751-8060

If you plan on putting much power to the ground,1/2 screw in studs are a good upgrade and they use to cost the same.Also,a lager bolt pattern is stronger.You can also have the axles gun drilled,unless you plan on using forced induction,in which case no axle manuf.reccomends this.Not even on 40 spline,Mark Williams,which are suposto be the strongest.Gun drilling costs about $100.00 .But in most cases it must be done before the axle is hardened.

what is gun drilling?

I am glad you asked.Gun drilling involves just exactly what it says.When a manuf.makes axles there are a few things that can be done to improve performance and reliability.One of these is gun drilling.After the axle is forged,but before it is hardened,they take the axle and drill a hole in the center of the axle,usually about half the diameter of the axle.the hole runs from the splines to within 2" of the bearing in the rearend.Then they cap the axle with a plug and harden it.What this does is cut reciprocating weight. Has the same effect as using a Carbon Fiber or Alum.drive shaft,light weight crank and or rods,as well as pistons,Alum.wheels,and anything else that spins,in a car."I know guys that have material machined off the ring gear for this purpose.(But this is a race only deal) "
Now ,I won't say that gun drilling axles alone will make your car faster.But if you try to make things lighter,through out the car it will be faster and usually with less maintnance.This alone is why I would never use a 400 turbo in a street car.The drum weighs a ton,and a Powerglide weighs about half as much and can take just as much power if not more.Hope I didn't get too carried away,for you.