Now that sandblasting of the frame is nearly finished, on to paint. All steering and suspension components are off the frame and I would like to paint it before reassembly.

Aside from powder coating (which I don't have access to), what is a good and durable paint to use on the frame and underbody? Since this is down to bare metal, I don't want to use POR 15. I assume it should be a primer and topcoat, but don't know which brands or paint types to use. Or is there a good one-step product that does not need a primer?

Our local body supply shop sells some inexpensive (about $30 a gallon) DuPont chassis paint that goes on over an ordinary primer. Will that stuff last? I suspect it would be better to use something else. But what?

Thanks again.
David

I have used this it is very good in my opinionhttp://www.pjhbrands.com/vht/rollbarchassis.htm

Check out this product. It is a one step chassis black from eastwood. Works great and covers well.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=10067+Z&Dep_Key1=spc

any paticular reason you don't won't to use the POR?

I don't think you can beat it for durability.
But with that said, I used Eastwoods "underhood black" on the firewall and cowl of my wifes Z28 and it turned out great. But, I have since found that Krylon #1613 Semi-flat black is a dead ringer for it color wise and much cheaper and I can get it at Walmart.

I did however use the POR semigloss on the frame and would recommend it.

you can see some pics of it here. Z28 frame and firewall (http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/dwaynes69bb/AmyesZ28resto.shtml)

Dwayne

any paticular reason you don't won't to use the POR?

I don't think you can beat it for durability.
But with that said, I used Eastwoods "underhood black" on the firewall and cowl of my wifes Z28 and it turned out great. But, I have since found that Krylon #1613 Semi-flat black is a dead ringer for it color wise and much cheaper and I can get it at Walmart.

I did however use the POR semigloss on the frame and would recommend it.

you can see some pics of it here. Z28 frame and firewall (http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/dwaynes69bb/AmyesZ28resto.shtml)

Dwayne

I use SEM rust shield paint. It works like a sigle stage and can be brushed or sprayed. If sprayed thin it out with a little enamel reducer (depending on your temp zone) and if you want it to be glossy use the harder / gloss enhancer or if you want it to be semi use as is.

I have great luck with it and you do not have to use a primer.

I use it a lot on heavy equipment repairs so after seeing its durability to the weather I used it on my frame , suspension componets and underneath the car .

By the way it comes in a bunch of different colors as well.

Stephe

I used Eastwoods chassis black after I sand blasted my frame. Prior to the paint application, I used Eastwoods rust incapsulator primer. Turned out gr8..Good luck

First off am not what so ever a believer in POR and similiar products.

The best thing to do would be powder coating but since you stated that isnt an opinion, Id use regular automotive paints.

The first product to use on that bare metal in my book is etch primer, like PPG DX1791, Dupont's variprime, S-W GBP 973..980 or valspar's sunlock 88.

Etching primer contains acids that etch the metal for proper paint adhesion and WILL dissolve slight surface rust. Look at any paint manufactors lifetime warreny you'll see that etch primer is meant to be used as the FIRST STEP on bare metal.

Once you have the items in etch primer(only takes 1 coat) apply an epoxy primer/sealer, apply two coats. Allow the epoxy primer sealer to flash off then paint the frame with single stage urethane. Some examples of single stage would be PPG's DCC, Dupont's ChromaPremier.

Topcoating with a products designed to seal out moisture and to protect against the elements is the ONLY way to fly if you dont have ecess to a powder coater.

Sorry but I believe that POR and the like are nothing but cheap products that COVERup the problem not FIX them.

sevt chevelle, I have seen your post and can tell you definitely know what you are doing. After reading your opinions of POR and others I was wondering if you have had trouble with these in the past or have done any testing? I do not use POR but do like the eastwood rust encapsolator for a good seal. Eastwood has done some testing on it and it seems very promising.

I do agree that removing all rust, self etch and a final topcoat is the most superior. Sometimes, like my cowl area, too little rust to replace but want the best protection from it resurfacing.

Again thanks for your advice and experience in these post.

Listen to sevt, do it the same as properly painting any other part of a car.

I don't really believe in powderercoating like I used to. If you dod use powdercoat make sure you really, really, really trust the powdercoater. We get powdercoated enclosures at work all the time and if it's not done right it makes a worse mess then using paint. Powdercoating is so hard that it holds rust and such under it for a while before it shows through. Then some peels off in big chunks and the rest is really hard to get off.

Peter

An update/question for Sevt-Chevelle or anyone else out there.

I checked with the local auto body paint supply store (a DuPont dealer) and asked for the products mentioned. Maybe the problem is that we don't have the same products available in Canada as in the US.

The dealer had not heard of Dupont Variprime etch primer. He has a Dupont product called Corilor etch primer. He suggested using Proform etch primer instead, I think mainly because it is about half the price of the Dupont product. Any experience with this product?

He had not heard of the epoxy primer/sealer and recommended putting a Proform single stage urethane (3 part mix) directly over the primer. The Dupont Chroma Premier is pricey up here - about $358.00 Canadian a gallon, compared to $135 for the Proform product.

One concern I have with using the single stage urethane for a finish coat is achieving the proper semi-gloss finish for the frame and underbody. How would I do that?

I also checked with Eastwood and probably can get their products (rust encapsulator and chassis black) shipped here fairly quickly. I wonder if it would stand up as well as the etch primer/urethane?

Indecision . . .
David

P.S.,
I forgot to answer NEW68SS's question about why I didn't want to use POR-15 for this project. I've used it before and probably would use it again, but not for a body off frame restoration, except maybe in areas that are hard to get at or that can't be cleaned down to bare metal. If a person is working with clean, rust-free metal, there likely are more suitable products to use than POR-15. The POR-15 company itself recommends putting it on over rust to improve adhesion.
David

David, I think the dealer has it right, or at least close. He's recommending an etch primer that you can paint right over top of. Etch and paint as opposed to etch, primer and paint.

I have used Dupont 810/815 followed by a 2K primer followed by single stage urethane paint in the past and it works well. The 810/815 is an etch primer that you use as the first step when painting.

Peter

I have NOT used Dupont products in roughly 5 yrs so my knowledge is alittle below par, as new products are released and old ones axed.

The etch I recommend I know they make it, but I do believe its limited to certain areas, but I might be wrong. The etch I recommend is Variprime 615S or even 625S but Id go with 615S as it still contains lead and chromate.

The epoxy that I used was Prime-n-Seal 2610S. I have NO idea if that product is still produced or if theres a better choice.

As for the gloss in single stage you can use a flattener to achieve lower levels of gloss. the flattner I used was 4531S.
To achieve 50% gloss add 30% flattener.
For 5% gloss add 50% flattener.

You can play around with different flattener ratios to achieve YOUR desired gloss level.

Ive never heard of the PROFORM line!! Can you get Dupont's value line NASON up in your area?? Would be cheaper prices and Nason is a good product,the ONLY value line I would ever consider buying. Could be that PROFORM is the canadian name for NASON. I know no idea am no Dupont buff.

Coroless from eastwood RULES !!!

David,

I used the Eastwood Chassis black on my SS - 3 yrs and still looks great, I used their Underhood black on the floors, firewall, brackets, Rad support, wheel wells etc - still looks great. I just finished my convertible the same way - you can view it on my page.

I primed my chassis with a sandable primer- Plasti Coat - it was taken down to bare metal all this with spray cans - easy to use, holds up well and the colors are great. I have used Eastwoods self Etching primer on other items - it's also a great product - I probably should have used it on the chassis but the Sandable primer is way cheaper and held well on the SS.

Rich

Be careful with the Proform products. We were recommended by a local parts shop to use their primer because a gallon of it was around 1/2 the price of the PPG primer we were using. It was junk! I've learned if you want a high-quality, long-lasting finish, you have to use high-quality, long-lasting products. Unfortunately, the Proform primer was not. I would NOT use it on bare metal (very poor adhesion), and I would think long and hard about even using it for block sanding.

Dupont also has a product called "DTM" stands for direct to metal that is new.
I know they have tested it extensively in the marine enviroment here in Fla.
Used for bonding/sealing metals befor paint.
You may ask your dealer about it?
T.C.

Thanks for all your advice. Here's what I decided to do. Since I'm not a body shop pro and am having a hard time finding the products recommended by several of you, I took the Eastwood route and ordered their products. They seem to offer quick and painless shipping to Canada.

If I read the Eastwood literature correctly, they don't recommend putting their chassis black over etch primer. So, even though the frame is sandblasted (and plan to do the same with the underbody), I ordered black rust encapsulator and plan to brush it on for the first one or two coats. That might help take care of little rust specks that remain here and there and will mean having to apply fewer coats of the chassis black. I plan to spray a coat of Eastwood chassis black as a finish coat.

Thanks again,
David

I did my frame with Eastwoods red Corroless and then topcoated with their Chassis Black.It looks great and I will continue to use it.Here's my own little test I did to see how the Corroless would protect metal exposed to the elements.I had replaced a broken plastic hinge pin on my driveway gate about 5 yrs. ago with a old 5/8" bare steel bolt. A couple of years out in the rain and weather, and that sucker was pretty rusty.Over two years ago I had just wire brushed off the loose rust and gave it two coats of red corroless just to see how it would hold up.No top coat,just the corroless.I can honestly say that it has not peeled off or has had any rust come back up through the paint.Uv has not hurt it.My conclusion?..... I love the stuff. Nuff said. :cool:

dc_malibu - is the Eastwood Corroless you mention the same as Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? I can't find Corroless on their web site.
David

IT'S THE SAME STUFF. They jusy gave it a new name a couple of years ago. It,s good stuff! ;)

I did my frame and susp,the same way.por is to $ graemlins/thumbsup.gif