: Martinsr...spot weld remover drill
sevt_chevelle Jun 24th, 03, 6:59 PM Today removing a top skin from a '00 dodge something, using the hole saw type of spot weld bits. Theres got to be a better method of removing those. Anyway I seem to remember sometime in December you posted on a drill made by spitznagel, thats made for removing spot welds. If memory serves right it had two arms for a depth gauge and a c-clamp kinda arm too.
This drill good, bad or indifferent? Thanks Martin...Eric
MARTINSR Jun 24th, 03, 11:16 PM I would not, could not even think of doing this work without my Spitsgegal. Today I drilled about two hundred spot welds doing a complete side aperture on a Mits Eclipse, I cannot even imagine how my body would feel right now if I had use a hand drill. The darn tool does the work for you. If it cost thousands of dollars for one I would still buy it, I am that serious.
sevt_chevelle Jun 24th, 03, 11:55 PM Originally posted by MARTINSR:
If it cost thousands of dollars for one I would still buy it, I am that serious. Thats music to my ears, thanks graemlins/thumbsup.gif ...Eric
MARTINSR Jun 25th, 03, 2:09 AM By the way there are three different "clamps" for the tool. I have the original (about two inch throat) and then the next one with a throat of about three and a half inches. The newest I have ordered, a six inch throat. You use them all so don't think you won't. I have also found that I use it for drilling holes to plug weld in thick metal. Like the aperture side, it is very thick metal and I used the Spitsnegal (I know I am spelling it wrong) to drill all the plug weld holes.
By the way, the bits last forever if you don't abuse them. The first bit lasted me about 10 months and one of the other guys is still using his original over a year later!
The bits are 5/16" and they do make a 3/8" bit. I have not had good luck with the 3/8", I broke them fast. I think you would need perfect flat metal to use them.
I think I explained last time that the tool applys the pressure so you don't even have to push! It is truly a life saver.
Check with http://autobodystore.com/ as I rememeber he had a good price.
http://members.aol.com/buickfam/spotwelddriller.jpg
Spot weld after drilling and removing top part.
http://members.aol.com/buickfam/spotweld.jpg
tblw68ss Jun 25th, 03, 3:29 AM MARTINSR, that looks slick, I'm suprised I missed your first post about the Spitz.. (sp also)?
Eric, I can relate, I just finished sectioning nearly the entire LH side of a Jeep Cherokee today, With a "cab-cut" USED panel. This was the whole Sh!tterree from A-pillar to rear gate. Talk about drilling spot welds! :eek: from the damaged to the new-used. I'm Dead beat from using a hand drill motor and one of those "Blair" hole-saw style cutters.
I didn't see it on the link you posted, but I'll keep looking and do more searching....
Thanks smile.gif
YenkoChevelle69 Jun 25th, 03, 1:38 PM I can't fine it on that site.
BobMcC Jun 25th, 03, 2:20 PM Is this the same thing? Drill Kit (http://www.autotoolexpress.com/airspotdrilk.html) Or Astro (http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/4438.cfm)
MARTINSR Jun 25th, 03, 2:55 PM I'm sorry guys, email Len at the Autobodystore.com and ask him about it. There are lots of things be can get but doesn't have them "in stock" on the site. I can tell you, he has had a good price on everything I have ever checked. And he gets it shipped directly from the manufacture to you so you get it fast.
MARTINSR Jun 25th, 03, 3:00 PM Bob, those are taiwanese copies. If you have read my "Basics of Basics" on buying tools you know how I feel about the cheapie tools.
First off, the Astro (both sites you gave are the same Astro tool) only has the one "clamp". That would seriously limit the tools versatility.
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