66 SS Big Block
Dec 25th, 06, 9:49 PM
Hi Guys,
Hope everyone had a nice Xmas? Got a good question that I hope I can get some direction on. I have a leaking/seeping steering box. Wondering what is involved in doing a seal kit and who has the seal kit? Also the power steering pump with a remote res. is not aligned with the Crank pulley. It is actually forward of the crank pulley. Nothing looks bent so I am scratching my head as to why?
Tnx in Advance.
Frank
yellow69rsz
Dec 25th, 06, 10:24 PM
I had a leaker on a 68 Chevelle a few years ago, I bought a tight ratio replacement at Advance Auto for a little over $100 dealer cost and it worked great. They can be a little labor intense and don't always stop leaking by replacing the seal. You would have to ck to see if they offer it with the remote reservior.
charbilly2001
Dec 28th, 06, 8:17 PM
To replace the seal you have to pull the Pitman arm off. That takes a BIG socket and a Pitman arm puller. When using the pitman arm puller you don't actually pull the Pitman arm with the puller. Rather you tighten the Pitman arm screw very tight and then you whack the rounded end of the pitman arm screw. Thats what its made for. Basically you whack, tighten, whack, tighten, etc. until the arm pops off.
Once the arm is out of the way you need to take a set of "Snap Ring" pliers and remove the snap ring that holds the seal package in.
Once you do that then you position a drain pan directly under the pitman shaft, start your engine and then start working your steering wheel against one of its stops while revving the engine. In a few short moments the internal pressure you are developing in the PS system will spit the seal package out, along with the contents of your power steering system.
The seal packace consists of two seals seperated by a large flat washer and the snap ring to hold them all in place. Make sure to install the seals such the the sealing edge is facing upwards towards the fluid which you are going to pour into the system. If you install the seals upside down they will definitely leak.
After all this work you reinstall your pitman arm and the lockwasher and nut and tighten the nut as tight as you can get it. I have 1/2" air tools and that's sufficient to tighten that pitman nut.
JIML82
Dec 29th, 06, 11:23 AM
You steer full lock to the left to blow the seals out. Right turn doesn't pressurize the pitman shaft barrel.
This link may also be of help. http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/RBGDisassembly&RepairPics1.doc
Good luck,
JIML82
vrooom3440
Dec 30th, 06, 2:50 AM
The only catch here is that the pittman shaft is not the only place the box can leak. There are also seals on the input shaft to consider.
big bubba
Dec 30th, 06, 10:05 PM
does anyone have a part # for the kit?what years are the same.
charbilly2001
Dec 31st, 06, 12:16 AM
The only catch here is that the pittman shaft is not the only place the box can leak. There are also seals on the input shaft to consider.
Not to be argumentative but output shaft leaks outnumber input shaft leaks 1000 to 1 in my experience. Hell...my output shaft leaks. I just haven't got the energy to perform the labor right now.
Besides...they are watching me.
How cryptic.....
charbilly2001
Dec 31st, 06, 12:18 AM
You steer full lock to the left to blow the seals out. Right turn doesn't pressurize the pitman shaft barrel.
JIML82
Now that I did NOT know! Cool info Jim. I guess I just got lucky and hit the right direction after enough swings of the wheel.
Amazing the details you pick up year after year.