I’m ready to decide how to prep my frame on a car that will be a daily driver. The frame is out of a 69 convertible. It is in very good shape, with just some very light surface rust. It looks very sound. I was planning on just wire brushing it and using Eastwood’s two step prime over rust/paint.

Since everything rest on the frame I don’t want to mess it up and regret not doing what needed to be done and the more I think about it the more the inside surfaces (which where I can see also have surface rust) brother me.

I’m looking for opinions. I don’t feel good about doing nothing to the inside.

Is there a system for cleaning and priming the interior?

Would just spraying the inside with Kroil twice a year work?

Or should I have the frame chemically dipped? Unless this has a real advantage I would like to save the $’s

HELP!!!!

Well if you want to be sure it's done and done right I would get it dipped and POR-15 it.. Or you can just POR it. Clean with a wire brush and POR (Paint Over Rust) the frame.. I have heard guys using undercoating wands to do the inside of the frame.. I was thinking of a bug sprayer... Either way it is going to be your baby for some time right??? Why not spend the cash to chemical dip it first (of course if your on a tight budget POR will work as well) Good Luck.. and don't forget to take lots of pictures http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif and Share em...

BTW,"Kroil"...good stuff! I'd go with the POR-15 myself...

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1970 Chevelle SS396/M21/4.10 My 70 SS396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SS1)
Engine pic (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SSengine2)
1970 Chevelle SS454My 70 SS454 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70ss454)
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver)
Chris Corwel,TC Member 785

Thanks for the help. I will post pic's as soon as I can. I'm more and more thinking about dipping

I'm also using the POR15. But I'm using the Scoth-Brite and Bristle Discs from Eastwood to prep the frame. Works fine, but it's just a little more work. If you choose to finish the chassis with POR15, they recommend you start with their Metal Prep, it etches the bare metal and leaves a zinc phosphate coating for good adhesion. Also, look at there top coats, ChassisCote and BlackCote, they're excellent, the finish looks like it was sprayed. Check out my recent post, I got some good feedback from people that have used the product.

The url is: http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum3/HTML/003807.html

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Tony -- 1968 Chevelle

Since the 'vert frame is boxed, I would seriously consider having it dipped and E-coated. E-coating is an electrostatically applied "paint" process that shoud theoretically coat all the surfaces of your frame, inside and out. I had great results sandblasting, POR'ing, and spraying my '70 SS frame with DP90, but that is a hardtop, non-boxed frame. I think I will have my GS convertible's frame dipped when I get rich and can afford another frame-off (not holding my breath!).

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Tony Nausieda
1970 SS 396-4??hp
Frame-off Resto, presently being painted, NOT stock but looks it!

Having just purchased a 1968 Convertible and currently dreaming big, does anyone know of a commercial chemical stripper in Michigan? I would like to burst this bubble soon.

Thanks,
Dale

Do you guys feel POR 15 is better to use than EASTWOOD'S corroless (spelling is probably wrong) or is both about the same?

That's a great question? Which does work better Por15 or Eastwood ?

Once again thanks.. for all the great insight

bridgford.. check www.ecoatking.com (http://www.ecoatking.com) he is in michigan.. Just tell him about this site and being referred mabye he'll start giving us discounts..

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by normie:
bridgford.. check www.ecoatking.com (http://www.ecoatking.com) he is in michigan.. Just tell him about this site and being referred mabye he'll start giving us discounts..<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

normie,

Thanks for the lead. This is the first organization that I have seen that lists their prices. I hope the frame is less than 15'3" long. This process is something to consider when I get there.

Thanks again,

Dale

Mike,

If you really want to make your frame look good, take the time to grind down and polish off all the drips from the welding manufacturing process and smooth out the sharp edges. I probably spent 40 hrs doing this prior to having my 68 convertble frame powder coated. Regardless of whatever finish process you end up using, the extra effort will show in the end.