Im at the point where Im buffing the bc/cc. The bc/cc went on pretty smooth so I really didnt need buffing compound so after block sanding lightly with 1500 grit.I used 3M perfect-it brand machine glaze with a 3M perfect-it foam pad on my variable speed buffer set on 1500. I know I didnt burn through the clear because I was VERY carefull and just lightly hit it with the 1500 grit and I have about 7 coats of clear on the car anyway. The problem is it seems like the shine is better on the area that hasnt been buffed yet than it is on the buffed section. Am I using the wrong compound or do I need to follow up the machine glaze with something else??? thanks guys

7 COATS of clear HOLY F@&K :eek:
A bit of overkill.

Michael theres a reply I made on the 67- 72 chevy truck site that I visit...Eric

sevt_chevelle
Lost amongst the CORN

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: IOWA
Posts: 66

Iowa has that lovely 90% humidty too man does it suck!!

Anyway, I have some part numbers of the 3M products we use at the shop. I have some pics of a BLACK 98 grand prix that I just straightened and painted yesterday and will post them later tomm.

Anyway I start off with 1200 grit paper to block it out, any finer and you are just polishing the clear not leveling it. Once you are happy you can switch to 2000 girt to remove the 1200 scratches, even thou I have buffed out 1200 without problems even on BLACK. I have yet to try this super fine grade of paper made by Meguiars that comes in 2500-3000 grit, from what i heard this makes the buffing process faster and easier as the paper somewhat buffs the surface shine back. Its called unigrit or unicut and Ive seen it for sell at eastwoods. 3M makes a product like this that goes on a da sander under the name of trizact.

Now on fresh paint you have NO NEED to use a rubbing compound what so ever. I went to a 3M buffing demo awhile back put on by a 3M rep that all he does is the buffing line of products. Anyway he stated that you dont need to use a rubbing compound on fresh paint. A rubbing compound is meant for like older paint that has lost some gloss. He recommened the use of a machine glaze and a black foam pad for the first go around. The 3M numbers are 05397 for the glaze and 05725 for the black foam pad.
Wool pads IMO are now OUT TO LUNCH when compared to the foam pads.

I used to use the rubbing compound(05936) and a white pad(05723) for my first buffing step. With this I noticed I spent lots of time in the next finer cut of glaze and pad to remove the srcatches. Using the rubbing and white pad actually take longer to buff and do put srcacthes in the paint that can be tough to remove in a black paint job. No longer do I use the rubbing compound and white pad on fresh paint!!!!

I only buff around a 4-5ft area at a time. After each area I wipe it down with a 3M detailers cloth(06016) to remove any film left by the glaze, once wiped I move on to the next spot. Now once done with say that hood or fender I wash it with water,once agin this removes that film. I want that film gone cause I dont want it to mix in with the other finer cut products that I use along the way.
Now to really put the shine on I use what I call a polisher, what it is a da sander but with a very tight rotation. because of this, it removes the swirls and scratches like no other. I use a product made by national detroit with a model number of XLB 1950, cost around 250 bucks, but worth the cash if you plan on doing some buffing.
For a glaze used with this polsiher I use a product made by meguiars called speed glaze. Once again I work an area of around 4-5ft, and once done with that spot wipe it clean with a NEW DIFFERENT detailers cloth. I use a diff detailers cloth for every product, once again I dont want to combine the different products together.
Once that panel is done with the speed glaze I use a polish called liquid glass and IMO its the best stuff out there period!!! I apply this product by hand.

My method of buffing might seem like lots of extra un-needed steps in the washing and wiping down with a different cloth each time but try it one a panel and try a normal method on a different panel. I gurentee that you will see a difference in the panels.

So its pretty easy.1. machine glaze with black pad.... 2.wipe down area each 5ft....3.wash panel....4.polisher with speed glaze...5.wipe down and wash....6. liquid glass. I use no magic potions or anything just good quailty products

Forgot to mention the 3M glazes are under the perfect-it 3 system...Eric


__________________
70 Chevelle
70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original
Project pics
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles


Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged

07-12-2003 12:25 AM



sevt_chevelle
Lost amongst the CORN

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: IOWA
Posts: 66

theres some pics of that 98 grand prix quarter that I straightened and painted BLACK baseclear. The only reason I buffed the quarter was because I got some slight dirt above the wheel opening and because the lady that owns the car is a REAL winch!

I dont get paid to make SHOW cars or buff them to look like glass, this is a production shop that I work at. This car I only wetsanded with 2000 grit unlike the 1200 grit I like to start out with, just enough to remove the dirt particles. Also I only used the machine glaze and black pad I did not use the polisher and speed glaze nor the liquid glass, if I had the thing would look like glass.

Judge for yourself...Eric
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/polisher.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/quarter11.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/quarter12.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/quarter13.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/quarter15.jpg


__________________
70 Chevelle
70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original
Project pics
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

Michael, you have mail....