Has anyone tried the stubber type traction bars that Lakewood and a few other companies produce? I have more Hp than traction, no wheel hop but I just burn the tires thru 1-3rd with 4.10 posi and turbo 350 with 2200 stall. I already boxed the control arms and installed new springs/bushings. Should I visit there?

I'm experiencing similar problems with my 70 Elky 454/TH700. Rear trailing arms were replaced with good boxed ones. Last summer I upgraded to 275/50/15 MT ET Street Radials and that helped reduce the overspin a whole lot. No wheel hop before or after the tire upgrade. Next on my list is getting more weight to transfer onto the rear axle at launch by lowering the rear end some more, dialing in my pinion angle and changing shocks, etc. Undecided today on whether or not to add a rear sway bar.

JMO, but it sounds to me like you may need similar tire/axle setup improvements instead of bolt on traction bars.

Start with tires. I went with traction bars first and they did little. I put on a set of drag radials and WOW what a difference.

if this is mostly a street car .... disconnect the front swaybay end links & nylon tie them out of the way while at the track ... gives you better weight transfer to the rear tires ...lower the rear end till lower control arms are level with the ground then start lowering tire pressure till it hooks up ...anther trick is airbags biasied a couple of lb's to the pass side so you'll launch straight .. P.S. don't forget to refill tires & hook up swaybar before driving home :eek:

I'f you want to try a set of the adjustable traction bars, I have a set that are in great shape and would sell cheap. I had them on my car with a 355 ci. pump gas motor but I always had et streets on it also. It ran 12.33 at 109mph with a 1.67 60 ft. I am going to an anti roll bar and all adjustable control arms.