ok I just replaced all my brake lines front to back 100% . I have 4 wheel drum brakes on a 69 . I have speed bleeders on all 4 wheel cylinders. i bench bled the master and installed it . then hooked up lines to the mc . cracked open rear pass side bleeder valve, pumped brake pedal and im getting no fluid flow at all . infact i tried all 4 wheels and im only getting alittle fluid flow on the fron two wheels. the rear half of the mc bowl is staying full, which with a dry system (new lines) tells me that no fluid at all is even leaving the mc to go to the rear brakes. Anybody else have this proble ? please help all input welcome

So all you did is just replace the metal lines? Did you replace any of the valves, rubber lines, MC or Power booster?

the car does not have a booster , i did replace the mc , and replaced all rubber lines .

Did the MC come with a new push rod? If so did you eye it up for proper length?

Ok, I think I have an idea....Those speed bleeders are hardly full proof. I tried using them recently on my 70' Chevelle. 3 of them worked th 4th did not. I bought a new set and the 4th wheel still did not work. Can you put back the original bleeders? Just an idea.

Check carefully for leaks.


Is the pedal stiff when all bleeders are shut?

It takes along time doing it that way to fill all those empty brake lines. (thats what I was told) I had a shop do mine and took them quite awhile to get them right.

It's not too bad doing it yourself, biggest problem typically encountered is leaks, but that shouldn't be a show stopper.

If all else fails you will have to crack the line going to any proportional valve you may have (just trying to relate my 65 drum brakes here). See if you are getting fluid pumping real good there. Which brings another thought here, isn't there some type of check valve in the proportional valve? I've read on some threads here that something had to be reset? Give the search feature here on the forums a try.

Get fluid moving from the master. At each connection going away from the master, crack the fitting as some one is pushing on the pedal. The object here is not to bleed them, but confirm fluid is pusing thru the line.

Once you get fluid going to the wheel, then bleed at the wheels.

I would crack all the bleeders and pump it just to get fluid through the lines. Same thing has happened to me, I had to crack the lines before just to get them filled up with fluid. Then I started bleeding them. Mark

manule drum setup has a distribution block not a prop valve the distribution block is bolted to the frame under the steering column, thanks for the input im going to check for leaks at the distribution block and maybe use a syringe to pump fluid through the lines , then bench bleed the master again , il let you guys know how it works

You should be able to open a bleeder and let it sit for 5 minutes and it should gravity bleed by itself. Once you do that for all 4 wheels then you pump it and bleed each wheel. If the fluid won't gravity bleed out you have a master cylinder problem. Could be a bad rebuild or a pushrod that is too long and not releasing the master cylinder all the way.

If the calipers are new, make sure the bleeders are facing up.

Another trick is to open one bleeder at a time, have someone inside the car pumping the brakes, keep your finger held over the open bleeder outlet. This will lets the air and fluid go out but your finger is held over the hole and will not allow air to get sucked back in. Works great.

make sure the brakes are adjusted up o.k. if you have drums and one wheel at a time

I feel for you. Just went through the same problem with my 67 malibu. After a week of replacing, bleeding, gravity bleeding and all the rest I finally got so disgusted I went and purchase a pressure bleeder. After 45 minutes problem solved.