Ok MartinSr. after following your advise (thanks a million) I have my patterns under way. It looks like the ideal place to cut the rear of the roof is where the factory lead joint is. Less interior structure and the shortest seam across the sail.

1. What do you think?
2. How would it be best to remove the old lead without applying to much heat and warpping the roof.
3. Would you suggest trying to re-lead the joint or use bondo?

thanks a million for all your expert advice. I wouldn't even attempt this without your input.

Rick, that would be a good place to splice it. The only issue that I would be concerned with is that the quarter overlaps the top. That means that one BOTH sides the top is under the tops of the quarters at an inward angle. It may not be very easy to get the top out from under the quarters. If all you were dealing with was the skin, then you could pull the front of the roof to one side to allow it to come out from under the quarter on the opposite side and then pull the top back in the other direction to remove it from the other side. But with all the inner structure and roof pillers on the front and such, it "may" not be possible to get the roof out from under those quarters.

Cutting right above that splice and making an insert as a backing for a butt weld may be a better way to go.

As I have said from the begining, with all the inner structure, this will take some good thinking. I wish I had a body sitting here so I could get a good look at it for you. I will take a run to the wrecking yard if I can get away from my "chores" and see if there is one out there.

On the lead, not much heat is needed. Do have a fan blowing the smoke and fumes away, melting lead is VERY dangerous. You don't want to smell it like I did for years, "me hurt mine self not nowing maybe" smile.gif

As far as reinstalling lead, not on your life. I have seen many debates on the subject. In my opinion, it is WAY over kill, and the only reason they did it for years was because of the speed you can do lead and the low dust in the factory. With todays products like Evercoats Everglass or Metal To Metal there is no reason to mess with lead. Just like there is no reason to mess with lacquer, same thing, they are HISTORY.

Thanks Marin, one of the reasons I picked this area is it appears to be the lightest interior braced area on the top. It has a oblong hole behind it that very nearly goes all teh way across the area on the inside of the sail.

That does sound like you have thought it out. Do remember that the slice wouldn't have to be at the same point on the inside as the outside. It could be at a much different point, it doesn't matter. As long as the inside cut or what ever lines up with the same point on the donor roof and the same on the outside.

By the way, you may want to think about drilling out the spot welds to an inner panel and completely removing it.
This is common on collision work as well as custom.

Just recently I had a few cars where I had to do it. On replacing the door "aperture" I had had to cut away a piece of bracing or the rocker to properly weld in the underlying aperture. Then use a backing at the slice to re-install the piece of rocker or brace.

On top chopping early Chevy pickups I will drill out all the spot welds around the rear window and at the windlace pinchweld and remove the inner sheetmetal. Chop the top then "chop" the inner panels and re-weld them in. This way you have complete access to the welds on the panels.