Hi all,
I'm looking at the options for dealing with some rust patches on my daily driver. (71 Chevelle Four door). I do not have any experience welding, but have access to borrow a welder from a friend. I know welding in patch panels is the RIGHT way to go, but this isn't a show car, and I'm on a budget.

Areas in need of help are driver's side front fender behind the wheel (1" diameter hole), around the rear wheels (both sides, ~1" all the way around), and bottom of the rear rockers (growing...)

Am I just asking for trouble if I use another approach besides welded panels? I've seen plastic putty, fiberglass reinforced putty, fiberglass mat, and even an adhesive metal mesh intended to be the frame for supporting putty. Will any of these methods give a repair that looks OK, and doesn't rust out again in a year or so? Or should I just leave the holes until I can afford to do it right?

I have a compressor, so blasting / grinding away the rust isn't an issue. And I plan to spray a good epoxy primer (DP90) before starting any cosmetics to stop the rust.

Advice, please?

We recently purchased a '69 Chevelle 2 Dr. parts car for some items we needed, and the rest ended up with Team Members on this site.

The car sales/auto repair shop also has a great '72 four door parts car for sale. You can find it with 2 pictures in the for sale section (Approx. 45 days ago).

You may want to consider it instead of "Patching"

Hope this helps.



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Team Members Forever #341

Richard, Judy, MAXX2

'69 Elke (Frame Off); GM HO 350/330-Mildly Ported Vortec Heads-Manley Severe Duty SS 2.02/1.60 Valves, Comp Cams Full Roller Package (Magnum)-Custom Grind CS 3315/3316 HR112-.510/.520 Lift, Edelbrock Air-Gap W/750 Performer Manual Choke-Performer 100 HP NOS, March Pulleys, 4L60 (Non Computer) W/Lokar Shifter, 12 Bolt Posi.

It seems to me like he has the typical rust found on most '60-70's cars. I would hardly consider the rust as he described as a reason to buy another car, and go through the hassle to swap the engine, tranny, etc?!

You can use the 'glass to patch small holes (under 2") BUT it is always better to weld in patches if possible. Get a good book from BN or even your local library- they're a big help. Why not borrow your friends welder and MAKE some patches from a scrap panel and give it shot?

Once Again, IMHO, I hardly think you need a "new" car to start with. IT all depends on :

A. Your Budget
B. The use of the car.

DITTO!


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Team Members Forever #341

Richard, Judy, MAXX2

'69 Elke (Frame Off); GM HO 350/330-Mildly Ported Vortec Heads-Manley Severe Duty SS 2.02/1.60 Valves, Comp Cams Full Roller Package (Magnum)-Custom Grind CS 3315/3316 HR112-.510/.520 Lift, Edelbrock Air-Gap W/750 Performer Manual Choke-Performer 100 HP NOS, March Pulleys, 4L60 (Non Computer) W/Lokar Shifter, 12 Bolt Posi.

I'm with ju87, borrow your friends welder and try the patch method. I did the same thing years back and got to be fairly decent with the welder. Regardless of what welder you use, try to do a quick tack to hold the patch piece in place, then when you weld around the patch piece to secure it all around, only weld about an inch at a time around the patch piece, this will help out a bunch on the build up of heat, which will cause the surrounding metal to warp. You'll be glad when your done that you did it. Good luck! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Another 4 door! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
Sweet! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

hd99fxst, You've got mail http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

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Shai
1972 Chevelle Malibu custom 4dr (http://72-chevelle.cjb.net)
TC member #1278

Anybody have experience with POR PATCH or POR PUTTY for this type of work?

Thanks,
mark.