pics? tips? tricks? hangine full rear quarters [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: pics? tips? tricks? hangine full rear quarters


jon_volk
Apr 28th, 03, 10:50 PM
just trying to gather up some info on hanging rear quearter panels on my 70. I will be going w/ the full quarters from goodmark and wanted to know if anyone had pics or suggestions on the install.

sevt_chevelle
Apr 29th, 03, 1:01 AM
Before you start cutting metal make sue you have the replacement panel right there. That way you know where to cut and how much to cut. Also gives you an idea on how it was put together from the factory.

Also before you cut align doors to the existing old quarters. This way when you have the new quarter installed you know it fits right.

You first need to locate all the spot welds then drill them out with a spot weld remover bit, looks like mini hole saw. Up on the sail panel were the quarter goes up to the roof you will need to melt out the lead filler. USe very very low heat, once the lead is gone you will spot 6 or 7 sprt welds that hold the quarter to the roof skin. On the drip rail around the glass you need to remove the chaulking so you have see the welds. Now the best way to remove those welds is with a cut off wheel and grind away those welds since you cant drill them out.

You need to remove the backglass and drill out the welds on that pinch weld that the glass rests on. Also on the inside of the trunk right above teh decklid arm there is two spot welds that need to be removed. You will see a small metal tab hanging down that is where the welds are.

All the rest of the welds are pretty easy to find and remove. Forgot to mention that you should also align the decklid before cutting. When you hang the new quarter you know where it has to sit to make for a nice fit around the deck lid.

When you start cutting out the quarter its much easier to work with smaller chunks of metal instead of one large quarter, so what I do is cut out the rough shape of the quarter with an air hammer. Now when I drill out all those welds am only fighting small pieces of metal and not one big one.

Test fit your quater many times before you weld it in. use sheet metal screws, vise grips to hold it in place while you check for fit and finish. The nice thing about using screws is that you can remove and install it all day long and still have it fit like you never moved it cause the screw holes are line up marks.

Also mention that you need to have the car sitting on all four TIRES dont try to install the wuarter with the car sitting up on jack stands cause its easier to work on. The jack stands can stress the car in different places and can throw the the new quarter out of whack, then you place the tires back on and the fit has gone to hell :eek:

Umass
Apr 29th, 03, 1:32 PM
one thing no one mentioned is use cleco clamps they are like removeable pop rivets and would be less damaging than sheet metal screws. they can be had at most autobody supply stores

hilks
Apr 29th, 03, 4:28 PM
Could you explain how to deal with the wheel well area/the lip. Thanks

jon_volk
Apr 29th, 03, 7:06 PM
oh yeah, one last thing....what order of installation when dealing w/ quarters, inner and outer rear fenderwells.

sevt_chevelle
Apr 29th, 03, 7:15 PM
Hilks, what is the problem you are encountering on the wheel well? What do you want explained?

Umass, how are the clecos any less damaging then srcews, both require a drilled hole? Sheet metal screws will hold together much better then cleco clamps, especailly with heavier loads. With the srcews you can close doors and decklid to check for proper gap, cant always do that with cleco clamps.

Now on those goodmark quarters, Ive done two pairs and heard this from others that have doen the OEM quarters. On the door jam the stamp is not excat or its flawed somewhat. Its on the very top of the jam right were the door glass and quartr glass would meet. The stamping is off just a bit, doesnt fit the door right. BUt this is a VERY EASY fix. What I had to do was cut a small pie cut in the jam then rework the metal with a hammer and dolly til it fit the door right. Once I got the fit right I welded the cut shut. I cut it cause theres just too much metal in that spot, when you rework it the cut disappears. It took me roughly 30-45 mins from start to finish per side to rrework that jam. The area is not all that big probably only 1 inch long that is out of round. Had to do this on each side but the drivers side was the worst.

Other then that I had no problems fitting the goodmark quarters. If it seems like you are making adjustments there and here and blame it on bad parts just remember NO 2 CARS ARE BUILT THE SAME and no matter what type of part you got NOS, aftermarket or used it will need some type of tweak period to fit YOUR CAR...Eric

sevt_chevelle
Apr 29th, 03, 7:52 PM
JOn you got to remove the quarter then the outer then the inner. Install-inner, outer quarter. But dont weld anything up til you have the new quarter test fitted. Once you know that the quarter fits right, then you can start welding parts together. You weld the wheel wells up before fitting quarter you more then likey will find that the quarter doesnt fit to car right.

Srcews will hold those panels in place no problem what so ever. My entire backhalf of my 70 was hedl together with srews for 2 years and it didnt move a 1/64 of inch :eek:

If you need to replce both sides do one side first then move to the next. Dont whack out both sides at once, cause those inners are a big piece of structual support on that car and you remove both of them at the same time VERY BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN