I am about to tackle my first engine build in the next couple of days. I am building a 2002 LS1. I have a few questions and I am of course open to any and all suggestions.

1. The cam bearings in the block have some very light surface rust on them what would be the best way to remove it before I stab the cam?
2. What should I do as far as cleaning the block cylinder walls etc. prior to assembly?
3. The machine shop who I had balance the rotating assembly did not put wire locks in the forged pistons which I found to be odd as they were supposed to come with them but they are nowhere to be found now. Should I get them or not?
l4. The crank only required minimal polishing and it was a 20,000 mile assembly before I tore it down for a rebuild. Do I need to use something like plastiguage to check the bearing tolerances or should it be good to go?

Thats all I can think of now but I will greatly appreciate your responses.

Toss the bearings for new ones, at least I would. Always check clearances no matter what. I mic'd my stuff and then checked it with plastigauge too. Some folks use soapy water to clean things before assembly, I used white diapers and a very light solvent. Keep cleaning until its all spotless.

Definitely toss the old bearings I already have new set of clevites. I just wasn't sure if I needed to check and see if I need to get some sort of oversized bearings. Do I check the toleranced with plastiguage with the old bearings or the new bearings in?

I am about to tackle my first engine build in the next couple of days. I am building a 2002 LS1. I have a few questions and I am of course open to any and all suggestions.

1. The cam bearings in the block have some very light surface rust on them what would be the best way to remove it before I stab the cam?
2. What should I do as far as cleaning the block cylinder walls etc. prior to assembly?
3. The machine shop who I had balance the rotating assembly did not put wire locks in the forged pistons which I found to be odd as they were supposed to come with them but they are nowhere to be found now. Should I get them or not?
l4. The crank only required minimal polishing and it was a 20,000 mile assembly before I tore it down for a rebuild. Do I need to use something like plastiguage to check the bearing tolerances or should it be good to go?

Thats all I can think of now but I will greatly appreciate your responses.

Have the machine shop replace the cam bearings or at least inspect them for you.

I prefer hot soap & water followed by WD40 so it does not rust

If you are using the stock rods )pressed you do not use the locks. You cannot use both locks & a pressed pin.

Check the clearances with the new bearings.
Plastigage is a lot more accurate than most give it credit for & is certainly better than not checking

I asked the machine shop to check the cam bearings and they said they should be ok (especially since it was such a low mile engine) but they have since devoloped the very slight surface rust. I was thinking maybe some 0000 steel wool might take care of it. I definitely learned something about using stock rods I had assumed you still needed to use the locks good info. As far as the wash I will go with the soap and water/wd40 method sounds great. Thanks for the great info!

I asked the machine shop to check the cam bearings and they said they should be ok (especially since it was such a low mile engine) but they have since devoloped the very slight surface rust. I was thinking maybe some 0000 steel wool might take care of it. I definitely learned something about using stock rods I had assumed you still needed to use the locks good info. As far as the wash I will go with the soap and water/wd40 method sounds great. Thanks for the great info!
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Are you talking about the journals on the cam or the bearings in the block?
The bearings cannot rust, they are Babbitt
If you are talking about the cam yes, you can use some steel wool
If you are talking about the bearings in the block DO NOT GET ANY WHERE NEAR THEM WITH STEEL WOOL, ABRASIVE PADS OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT
Trust me, you will not get it all out & it just raises hell with your new bearings.

I am talking about the cam bearings in the block but you are saying its impossible for those to rust? If that is the case it may just be a bit of dirt on there.

Dude pay attention. I have built alot of ls1 engine over the past few years and they are kind of complex, not your ordinary small block. Get you a book on them. Lots of oil galleries. Oil pan has structural integrity. I am doing another ls1 right now, can lend you an internet hand if you would like. The ls1tech.com site is a very good place for info. in the end you will be satisfied. I am thinking of doing a 5.3 twin turbo for my camaro. My buddy has a rear mount turbo in his full size Z-71 crew cab 5.3 and that truck flies.

Oh I have definitely got a couple books and frequent LS1tech alot. Lots of good info on ls1tech but it seems like 95% of the guys in the internal engine section don't actually know jack about building a motor just cams and what not. Why not do a 6.0 turbo? When you are spending that much money a few extra for the 6.0 shouldn't be that big of a deal and would make quite a bit more power. I would love to do twin turbo but its definitely not in the budget for now. Those rear-mount turbos are cool but I dunno I can't see doing that over a supercharger or a real turbo setup. You have any idea what the deal with thes cam bearings in the block being rusty or dirty or whatever it is?

Bump anybody have an idea what the deal with these cam bearings is?

Dude pay attention. I have built alot of ls1 engine over the past few years and they are kind of complex, not your ordinary small block. Get you a book on them. Lots of oil galleries. Oil pan has structural integrity. I am doing another ls1 right now, can lend you an internet hand if you would like. The ls1tech.com site is a very good place for info. in the end you will be satisfied. I am thinking of doing a 5.3 twin turbo for my camaro. My buddy has a rear mount turbo in his full size Z-71 crew cab 5.3 and that truck flies.


I agree. Kudos for making the 3rd gen LS your first build. Lots of good information. Note that the stock bolts are "torque to yield" and should be discarded for new bolts. Let us know how it goes!

Ya and I had a heck of a time tracking down those forsaken bolts. Seems like every dealership in Oklahoma City thought it was a good idea to carry 1 or 2 of them but not enough to build a whole motor.

I think I got things under control for now. I checked all the main bearing tolerances with plasti guage and they came in right around .0020 so from everything I have read thats pretty good. Tomorrow I get to spend all day filing rings should be fun especially since I don't have a ring filer haha.

O.K. so did you figure out the deal with the cam bearings? Whether or not its dirt, rust?, or whatever. It shouldnt be there. Ditch them and install new ones......PLEASE!. Spotless, Spotless, Spotless is how you want things....and that means everything. I have seen to many guys building stuff on the garage floor and then getting all upset when it fails in use. Good luck.

I think what it was on the cam bearings was just some of the left over oil from when he bored the cylinders. Looked suspiciously like rust but upon further inspection I feel it will be fine. Got the rings filed and the crank installed and torqued to specs so slowly but surely I am making progress. Cleanliness is next to Godliness that is the key.

The discoloration was probably a coating put on at the factory. I use Durabond HP series and they have a thin bronzish looking overlay. Or it may just be heat/oil discoloration from running.