I have the original numbers matching 350 in the velle still, and though I would like to throw something more potent in it, I think for now I will rebuild the 350 due to a tight budget. Anyway, I have a thorough understanding of how engines work and all, but I have never rebuilt one. I am very mechanically inclined, and I am thinking I want to rebuild it myself both to save money and because I find it rewarding to do things myself. I don't think it will be too tough, but I am concerned I will do something wrong or miss a detail while rebuilding that could cause a failure. Are there any good websites that have a good step by step tutorial with pictures? Anything to really watch out for? I have alot of tools but I'm a bodyman by trade so I don't have much for specialty engine tools, anything I need to invest in before I get going? All I could think of would be maybe a gear puller and a good torque wrench (what size? 3/8? 1/2?). Also what kind of manual or tech sheet can I get that will tell me what to torque all of the different bolts to? TIA

Pick up "How to rebuild your small block Chevy" from any Barnes and Noble bookstore or like Amazon.com, it's invaluable! It's outlined everything..step by step by step.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/HP1029.jpg

Basically most of the cost of engine building is in parts and machine work.

The assembly cost is not a big factor in my opinion.

Plus the professional engine builder will usually guarantee non-race motors.

You build it, you make a mistake, your problem.

Not saying it can't be done, but you must really want to do it, it is not a big money saver.

Thanks for the book suggestion, I was wondering which one of the hundreds of books I have seen about it would be the best and supply the torque settings etc. Sandy - I am really on a tight budget. College student that had housing problems and ran out of money. So now I am unemployed and just trying to get by with what I have, any penny I can save is big for me until I get back on my feet. Besides the money factor I like to know how to do these things and really find a sense of accomplishment and pride in both knowing and doing everything I can myself. The motor was still running, and the exhaust didn't show much smoke to indicate burning of fluids, had decent power even. So I think everything in there is probably in pretty good shape, I am thinking I will take the block and have it honed (hopefully doesn't need bored), rering and replace the bearings etc. A standard freshening up of a 34 year old engine. Planning on putting a new 4barrel on it though so it will at least hopefully not embarass the chevelle logo, hopefulyl with a cam if finances allow.

As for tools, I have this for a new list.
Good quality torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2"?)
Ring compressor
Gear puller
valve spring compressor?
valve lapping tool?

I am thinking financially I have the engine with what seem to be good working parts, so a rering kit (I've seen from 180 to 320 dollars), hot tanking, have them magnaflux everything for cracks, and hone out the cylinders. Not sure what this will come up to but I have some good connections at a machine shop/parts store through my body shop jobs, so hopefully not too much. Other than that it seems to be mostly meticulous cleaning, prep, and detail oriented assembly (the story of my life, I'm a bodyman after all!) I read this backyard how to - http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/350.html - and while it seems to be a little informal it really gave me alot of confidence that I could do this. Also if I get in a bind I know several people that I could have help me (my boss built a 3 staged nitrous 440 for his 68 charger that would bring the front wheels up). I think I have the resources, determination, and I think with a book the guidance and knowledge to do this. My biggest question now is on the torque wrench and do there appear to be any big holes in my plan?

It's not recommended to clean the cylinder head deck surface as shown in the photo of the link you provided with that type of tool. That procedure can leave low spots. I would have the heads milled just enough to clean them. It's a minimal charge.

If you want a torque wrench for assembling your engine get the 1/2" wrench. A 3/8" wrench is way too lite duty for engine torquing. Generally 3/8" torque wrenches get used for some transmission applications and some differential applications. Very few things you need to tighten on an engine can be done with a 3/8" torque wrench.

Good Luck :)

Just as an option to mention, MANY sources have 383 "kits" available for someone who has a good 350 block to start with. Yes, absolutely, this will run a little more than a basic 350 rebuild. BUT, the total bang for the buck CANNOT be beat. Your machine work expenses will be the same, with ONE possible exception, which you COULD do yourself. When you put a 3.75 stroke crank into a 350 block, it is necessary to grind come clearance in two places. One is at the bottom of the cylinders (JUST BARELY ENOUGH) to clear the rods. BE CAREFUL, too much and you will break into the water jacket. The other place for required clearancing (this is ONLY if you use the longer 350 rod instead of the shorter 400 rod) is the head of the rod bolts that face the cam shaft. You will need to grind off about .030-.040 at a 45deg angle on these rod bolt heads. This is tooooooooooooooooooo easy for you to do yourself. But, if you don't feel comfortable doing this additional required clearancing, your machinist can do it for minimal expense.
Again, just a possible option.
If you REALLY wanted to go this way and keep it to a super low budget, you need a 400 crank with the main journals turned down to 350 journal size (re-use your 350 rods) and a set of pistons for a 383 with the wristpin positioned for a 350 rod. EVERYTHING else will be the same for a 350, bearings, rings, cam, lifters, gaskets, etc, etc. Since the machine work will be the same, and if you can do the added clearancing, this will make you one heck of an engine for minimal added expense. Also, as you may know, you will need a 400 balancer and flywheel or flexplate.
Ah ya, of course obviously, everything will need to be balanced, but you need to to that ANYTIME you build an engine.

Thought about the 383, but I want to keep this numbers matching block totally stock (other than maybe a cam and going to a 4 barrel). Then when I get the money to get the power I really want, I will go ahead and build an engine that will really do what I want it to do (either a big block or a Gen III). I figure someday maybe that numbers matching smallblock under the garage workbench will come in handy and possibly make me a few bucks. Also this might be a stupid question, but if I properly mark/label all of the rotating assembly on disassembly and put it back together exactly the same (as in rod bolts, flexplate in the same place, balancer in same place, etc), do I need to have it balanced? Also what should I look into for rebuilding the heads, I am guessing some new valve guides would be a good idea, and those old springs are probably getting weak...

i have that book mentioned above. great book. when i was done reading it, all i wanted to do wqas to go find a motor to rebiuld it. haha but it aint that easy. good stuff in there.

This is the book i got for x-mas. It is really good and i recommend it. It even comes with a 2 hour DVD. It shows you how to disassemble, machine shop procedures, pre assembly procedures, final assembly and how to get her running again. I don't know where my parents got it from but here is a site that has it.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CARSA116

It's not recommended to clean the cylinder head deck surface as shown in the photo of the link you provided with that type of tool. That procedure can leave low spots. I would have the heads milled just enough to clean them. It's a minimal charge.

I looked at that picture, and it appears they are deburring the edges of the chambers, not trying to clean the whole surface. Still, those things can leave a lot of fibrous dust everywhere, not good if it doesn't get cleaned up thoroughly.

If you want a torque wrench for assembling your engine get the 1/2" wrench. A 3/8" wrench is way too lite duty for engine torquing. Generally 3/8" torque wrenches get used for some transmission applications and some differential applications. Very few things you need to tighten on an engine can be done with a 3/8" torque wrench.

Good Luck :)

I have three 3/8" torque wrenches. Then again, I have to torque ALL bolts on any engines I put together, due to liability and warranty reasons. So don't discount them. You can use a nice dial type 0-600 inch-lbs wrench for everything from the intake, timing cover, oil pan, and even the rod bolts. A click type won't get you low enough for the smaller ones, but the dial will. ;)