I have finally started to refinish the interior sheet metal on my 70. I have a few questions. First, what is the best way to remove the old glue from the sheetmetal behind where the sail panel was? Second how about the floor, I have scraped all of the asphalt insulation off the floor pans and in many areas there is adhesive left from the pads, its kind of a redish sticky "gunk", again what is the best way to remove this stuff? Finally, my ceiling has a insulation kind of pad stuck to the back side of the roof sheet metal, this looks like it has invited rust to breed around it and I'm assuming under it, how can/should I remove this without making a total mess. I am using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to cover the rusted surfaces once they are cleaned. Thanks in advance any help you can give.

Thinner and elbow grease...the evidence of rust you mentioned is exactly the reason why I don't like to use dynomat and tar paper when I redo an interior...a lot of people want it for sound issues and the factory used certain things when they made the cars...I don't reccomend any of that stuff...but that is just my personal way of doing it...I have put stuff back in these cars though as per customer request...it's really a matter of personal preference...who is gonna look under your carpet, behind your door panels, or under your headliner once all of it is installed???

I'm the other way. I prefer to ride in a car thst has good sound deadening, it feels more comfortable, and I can hold a coversation easily. I will be using Dynamat Extreme when I do.

Yeah i'll probably be usiong dynamat as well, I wish I didnt need it so I could keep from having to stick more junk to the floorpans, but even with the factory insulation in place it was like an oven inside when the car was running. Anyone else have any experience cleaning up the interior??

I'm cleaning up mine right now, and I am going to use damplifier, its WAY better than dynamat. And less expensive but its not the company claiming that I saw that on independent tests it blew dynamat extreme out of the water. But dynamat extreme was the next in line behind it.

I was just turned onto stuff called HUSHMAT by a buddy who helps run a custom shop that also does high end sound systems for DBL drags type cars. It's a butyl material like Dynamat Extreme, but thinner. It supposedly doen't need to have a grease-free surface, and is not temp sensative on installation. It's also a little cheaper, but price wasn't the main consideration. I also was told it installes easier, and doesn't need the roller to press securely-its more pliable.

I'm gonna use that.

The best way to remove the old tar/paper is to scrape as much off as possible, then use a cup type wire wheel on a small grinder. I did the entire floor, down to bare metal in a couple hours. I then cleaned it with lacquer thinner, etch primed it, then finished up with a dark grey satin enamel. It looked exactly like the factory finish. Then I put the factory sound deadener on it and covered that with the new carpet, so no one knows what it looks like, except me and a few friends who may have seen the work in process.

Thanks guys. I think I'm gonna have to take a couple days off from work and get that done. The parts i've started already have worked well. I also found (accidentally) that soaking the floor boards in laquer thinner and wiping them down with a paper towel is a good one step way to bring it down to bare metal, but its a heck of a mess....

I also used about a 4 inch wire wheel on a drill motor to clean up the stuck glue and carpet pad, and some of that red stuff mentioned. It worked good.