As I previously posted 1966 Chevelle has developed rust bubbles at the rear window and on the roof above the door (there are 2 the size of a pinkie tip on both sides and several small ones starting like a dotted line), as well as the doors themselves. This is possible due to the paint job my father had done 4 years ago. A friend has told me he know someone who has done roof repairs on Chevelles and Impalas using fiberglass, since it was the only sure way to ensure there was no rust in the future. My question is how good are such jobs? Please, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I was always taught that the best way to repair rusted metal is to replace it with new metal. I have seen a few guys "glass" the repair, but it makes me wonder about the durability.

I have the bubbles on my shevelle wagon. I glassed them after removing the rust with my dremel tool. Fiberglass is strong, they make boats out of it, car bodies, aircraft parts etc. If you want a better grade of fiberlass resin and cloth than what auto zone and others sell, go to a marine store like west marine, or boat us. You will also find stainless steel screws there. They also have very high quality wire, but you will pay extra for it.

Fiberglass is infact very strong, and impartial to the elements, however the complaint I have heard many a-times deals with mixing steal and fiberglass. Generally people say it will crack, either due to different expansion rates, or the body its adhered to flexing, and cracking it. I would say, if the holes are very small, you can get away with it, but the best way to take care off rust is always removal and replacing the metal. Just my .02
Best of luck,
Brandon

Originally posted by 70mousejob:
Fiberglass is infact very strong, and impartial to the elements, however the complaint I have heard many a-times deals with mixing steal and fiberglass. I'll second that. There is absolutely NO way to make fiberglass resin permanately adhere to metal.
I started out over 15 years ago working in body shops and then building high-end fiberglass kayaks. Not once have I ever been happy with the results of such a combination. If you think I am somehow mistaken, please show me (and possibly yourself) something new. I am always open to learning new techniques, etc.
++++

Mousejob, I have to disagree with you. Fiberglassing a rust hole WILL NOT LAST PERIOD. Fiberglass contains TALC material for a filler, look on the back of USC's duraglass or evercoat's fiberglass, both contain TALC. Well talc absorbs moisture so there for glass filler will absorb it also.

Sorry but I just DONT BELIEVE in WATER PROOF filler be it glass type or the All-metal type. Yes Ill agree that they are a bit more water resisant but not water proof, big difference.

Simply cleaning that little spot with a grinder or dremel will do nothing to rid the rust, what about the rust on the backside of that hole??

Id be willing to bet that 75% of all rust starts from the inside and works out, how can you treat that properly?

A job done in that manner will last a few years if that. Give ya an example few summers ago did a repair just like that on a ford truck, rusting over the wheel well. Truck needed boxside or atleast a patch welded in place of that rusted metal. Well guy didnt want to spend the cash, wanted the elcheapio method. Needless to say I saw the truck about 3 weeks after it left the shop, you could see rust bubbles coming back already graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by dan_cobb:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 70mousejob:
Fiberglass is infact very strong, and impartial to the elements, however the complaint I have heard many a-times deals with mixing steal and fiberglass. I'll second that. There is absolutely NO way to make fiberglass resin permanately adhere to metal.
I started out over 15 years ago working in body shops and then building high-end fiberglass kayaks. Not once have I ever been happy with the results of such a combination. If you think I am somehow mistaken, please show me (and possibly yourself) something new. I am always open to learning new techniques, etc.
++++ </font>[/QUOTE]I'll third that!! I've never been able to sucessfully fiberglass over metal. It always delaminates. I don't even know if vacuum bonding would work. The best fix is and always has been to cut out the rust and weld in new metal.

Thank you for your advice everyone. Can anyone tell me how much it would cost to replace the rusted metal on the roof? It's an area 2' long and 2" wide (starting at the drain rail).