I have hear it is possible to change valve springs without removing the heads.

Supposidly there is a tool out there that screws into the spark plug hole that allows you to connect an air compressor to fill the cylinder with compressed air and thus push up on the valves while changing the springs...where can i find one of these at?

Also I've not ever changed valve springs, any pointers on how to do it right the first time around?

Thanx in advance.

I have hear it is possible to change valve springs without removing the heads.

Supposidly there is a tool out there that screws into the spark plug hole that allows you to connect an air compressor to fill the cylinder with compressed air and thus push up on the valves while changing the springs...where can i find one of these at?

Also I've not ever changed valve springs, any pointers on how to do it right the first time around?

Thanx in advance.
You can buy both tools you need from Jegs. The spring compressor is about 40 bucks & the air fitting is about 15 bucks.
I did all mine last winter in about an hour & a half & I took my time. Super easy.......
Pull all the plugs,bring the piston for the cyl you are working on to TDC,insert the air fitting & pressurize. Screw the compressor onto the rocker stud (forgot to mention to remove all your rockers.) pull down on the compressor handle & remove the valve locks. remove the spring,install new spring&retainer,compress,install locks, release compressor & repeat 15 more times.:thumbsup: After the first couple, you'll get into a system & will move right along. & then :beers:

Thanx, I will be buying my stuff thru Summit, I just need to find it in the parts section....is there a name for the tool that fills the cylinder with air?

When you compress the valve spring how does the retainer lock come off? Do they snap on or something?

Also does the cylinder you're working on have to have the piston at TDC?

yes th piston needs to be at TDC, (I put a screwdriver tip in the spark plug hole until I felt the piston top) Not sure of the name of the fitting,but in the Jegs book, The part # is listed as a required item with the spring compressor & it is on the next page. The locks ar held on by the spring pressure & retainer. No snapping or screwing, just make sure that they are seated in their little grooves. (you'll see)

Not sure of the name of the fitting,but in the Jegs book, The part # is listed as a required item with the spring compressor & it is on the next page

Would this be it?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D62385&N=700+4294925139+4294925138+4294819827+115&autoview=sku

Make sure to get a telescoping magnet to remove the valve locks after spring is compressed. Much easier with this tool.


Matt

i did it successfully. no air required. just bring the piston to TDC and put a screw driver in the SP hole to sort of wedge under the valve.
It worked fine for me. maybe the air is easier, but i didnt have the right tool and i needed to get it done asap

We change alot of Valve springs on our circle track engines we have never neede to use air or wedge a screw driver in the hole against the valve.

We go right through the firing order so we can adjust the valves when the new spring are installed.

Once we are at TDC comprssion stroke we use a brass small hammer and tap on the retainer to break it loose and if the valve seals are good you should be able to compress the spring remove the keepers and you know the rest. Then turn the crank 90 degees and go to number 8 cylinder.


Using a screw driver to wedge the valve we cause damage to the piston and could possibly bend a vapve as some of our valves are have 7MM stems and would not like the screw driver proceedure and either would my customer.

Would this be it?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D62385&N=700+4294925139+4294925138+4294819827+115&autoview=sku
thats actually nicer than the one I used

If you are worried about the valve dropping (without air fitting) just feed some nylon rope into the plug hole to fill up the chamber. This will prevent the valve from falling. Just be sure to pull it out before you crank the engine around for the next pair.

If you are worried about the valve dropping (without air fitting) just feed some nylon rope into the plug hole to fill up the chamber. This will prevent the valve from falling. Just be sure to pull it out before you crank the engine around for the next pair.
Like Dave said.This works great.If I can add to this.I keep the piston down in the hole and then rotate the crank with a ratchet until I feel the rope offer up resistance.After the springs are swapped,rotate the crank counterclockwise and remove the rope.

Thanx, I went ahead and ordered the Moroso MOR-62370 valve spring compressor, my beehives and some other stuff, I just hope it all fits.........

I'll just add this little tidbit. The TDC thing may or may not work. Its not important when you are using air. I just screw the hose into the plug hole and hit the air. Wherever the piston is it immediately goes to BDC and the cylinder is then filled with 120lbs of air. You can rest assured that the valves will stay closed with 120 lbs of air on them.

I have always just used the hose from my compression tester. If you have a compression tester that the gauge is detachable, just detach it, screw it into the spark plug hole and connect your air hose to it. The one I have has the same disconnect on it that all my air hoses have. It will save you the extra $15 of buying the kit.

Rope method works great. Save your money for new springs!

I'll just add this little tidbit. The TDC thing may or may not work. Its not important when you are using air. I just screw the hose into the plug hole and hit the air. Wherever the piston is it immediately goes to BDC and the cylinder is then filled with 120lbs of air. You can rest assured that the valves will stay closed with 120 lbs of air on them.
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This is not really the best plan ;)

If you lose pressure for any reason while you have the spring off guess what can happen :sad:
I would much rather have the piston as a backup if the valve does drop.

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This is not really the best plan ;)

If you lose pressure for any reason while you have the spring off guess what can happen :sad:
I would much rather have the piston as a backup if the valve does drop.

good idea. i usually just have the piston at TDC and put a flat head screwdriver in the SP hole right under the valve. works for me. no string to feed in or special air units

I have always just used the hose from my compression tester. If you have a compression tester that the gauge is detachable, just detach it, screw it into the spark plug hole and connect your air hose to it. The one I have has the same disconnect on it that all my air hoses have. It will save you the extra $15 of buying the kit.

Great idea! I never thought of that one!

I have always just used the hose from my compression tester. If you have a compression tester that the gauge is detachable, just detach it, screw it into the spark plug hole and connect your air hose to it. The one I have has the same disconnect on it that all my air hoses have. It will save you the extra $15 of buying the kit.

Wished someone would've already told me before I placed my order......