Help w/ seam sealer please [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Help w/ seam sealer please


Texas70
Oct 23rd, 03, 9:45 AM
I have searched for the Fusor and 3M body sealer locally and no luck. I plan to do this floor pan (1" lap) this weekend. I bought a canister of DAP Lap and Metal siding Butyl sealer that you would apply to gutters and flashing. I see no mention of silicon on the canister. I would like to apply this as a seam sealer and coat with POR-15 after the pan is installed (spot wellded w/ weld thru primer). Will this work ? TIA :confused:

WayneK
Oct 23rd, 03, 12:27 PM
Yes It will work,, and being it's not a out side painted surface and your doing a lap joint,
I see no reasong not to use it... The Beauity of seam sealer is it's paintability, ,and that's not an issue with your application..

Teaxs So big you do not have a Body Supply house around Kathy ?

eduardo69chevelle
Oct 23rd, 03, 12:45 PM
My comment would be to POR 15 the weld seam before sealing it. Most sealants that I have used recommend an etching primer underneath (POR 15 even better), that way rust will not develop below the sealant. I NEVER put a seam sealer over bare steel, they will all work over primer or paint.

eduardo69chevelle
Oct 23rd, 03, 12:47 PM
Just a correction - some solvent based sealants will not work over paint that is not fully cured(not referring to POR 15). I tried that once and it lifted (wrinkled) the paint underneath forcing me to clean it out and do it over. Never had a problem with primer.

Texas70
Oct 23rd, 03, 2:13 PM
Originally posted by eduardo69chevelle:
Just a correction - some solvent based sealants will not work over paint that is not fully cured(not referring to POR 15). I tried that once and it lifted (wrinkled) the paint underneath forcing me to clean it out and do it over. Never had a problem with primer. So ..... weld thru primer, spot weld in place, then POR-15, then sealer ? :confused:

And Wayne, what heading should I look under in the yellow pages for "Body Supply House" ?

Thanx again guys smile.gif

baddbob71
Oct 23rd, 03, 3:17 PM
I wouldn't use the DAP stuff if you plan on painting over it. I prefer 3m's Ultra pro urethane seam sealer-the stuff will be flexible forever. Make sure you prime the area with a bare metal primer like epoxy or self etching primer before you apply the sealer. Almost all sealers require primer to be applied first and that's the only way I do it. I think of all the rotted out AMC's and Mopar's of years ago, when all the seams rotted under the sealer because it was applied over bare metal and cracked. Do it right with good quality products to avoid doing it again down the road. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Texas70
Oct 23rd, 03, 3:50 PM
So .....
1. weld thru primer

2. spot weld in place

3. POR-15

4. sealer

?????? :eek:

baddbob71
Oct 23rd, 03, 4:42 PM
If your por15 is being used as the bare metal primer then yup- apply the seam sealer over it

Professor_SS
Oct 23rd, 03, 4:59 PM
With stardard seam sealer you would

weld threw primer
weld
prime (etch and high build primmer on roof channels)
(on my floors I used cooreless as a primer on the floor top and bottom)
sealer
prime and/or paint over

using the DAP stuff I'm not sure.

using por I'd use the por 15, then the sealer, then the chasis black. But por is so slick when dry that I'd worry about it sticking.

BTW, I see that the local Sherman Williams auto paint supply places in your area are listed as suppliers of 3Ms seam sealer products.

Midnight Marauder
Oct 23rd, 03, 5:28 PM
Originally posted by Professor_SS:
using por I'd use the por 15, then the sealer, then the chasis black. But por is so slick when dry that I'd worry about it sticking.

Couldnt you just scuff the POR to reduce slickness and provide a better surface for seam sealer adhesion? Then just top coat the whole smacker with chassis black or POR topcoat paints.

Professor_SS
Oct 23rd, 03, 5:43 PM
I'll be honset and say that I have never tried to scuff por 15. But I do remember someone posting (during one of the por vs cooreless debates) that it is very dificult surface to scuff. I have used por on my frame and some of my suspension parts along with thier top coat and must say I wasn't all that impressed. That said, I just wondered about the adhesion properties of products to the por given its unusual, shall we say, chem composition and supposed hardness.

SSuper Dave
Oct 23rd, 03, 7:42 PM
John, Ken Brault Paint near Kirkwood and I-10 should have everything you need. Look under their name in the white pages.

eduardo69chevelle
Oct 24th, 03, 1:05 PM
Since we are talking about the floor pans, if you are using POR 15 there is no reason to paint over it. On similar applications recently I welded, cleaned the welds/seams with a wire brush, then POR 15, then seam sealed. Since it is not visible I don't see the point in painting it on the top, but on the bottom I used undercoating over the POR 15. I also don't think it is wise to put POR 15 over primer of any sort - it is intended to be used over properly etched steel.

Professor_SS
Oct 24th, 03, 6:56 PM
In my best "dirty mops" impression... I think he fainted :D

Texas70
Oct 27th, 03, 9:25 AM
The floor pan patch panel is in and with your advice, all went smoothly and I am very happy with the results. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Have any of you used the Eastwood spot welder attachment for arc welders ? I tried to spot weld the panel in last Friday and just could not get the 3-4 second arc I needed so I simply stuck it down with my 5/64-50 amp stick.
May not be pretty, but it's only a floor pan.