Ok my car is a 71 chevelle, it has been parked for a few months and I took out the carport today to clean up the engine. I got it where I wanted and when I tried to kill it it wouldn't kill. I turned the key back and took it out ande everything but it kept running, so I put the key back in and wiggled the column shift and tried again and it killed. Well I was messing with the carb and told my buddy to crank it and then when he tried to kill it it wouldn't, it took about 5 minutes before it would kill when you turned the switch. What could this be? It is the stock column and keys.

first few thoughts are bad ignition switch, timing is off

I Do hope your referring to the timing of the ignition switch and key lock. This could very well be. If you jiggle it and it shuts off, I would guess that's the problem. The ignition switch is a spring loaded pressure switch and mounted at the base of the column on top. When you turn the key, it pushes a rod forward and contacts the ignition switch. The switch is held down by two screws in concentric slots. If the switch slid one direction, it may not be enough movement to shut the car off, OR the spring in the switch itself is broke/weak and can't release far enough to shut the car off. If jiggling the key has NOTHING to do with the car shutting off, I would say the ignition is back feeding from the alternater to keep the car running. A couple of my cars do/did this. Put a diode in line with the alternater lead. A diode is an electrical check valve that will prevent a back feed. It only allows electricity to flow in one direction. I strongly believe it's one of these two problems.

I searched a little last night and found a post on another site with the same problem and they said to spray some oil in the key hole because some of you key fobs might be stuck. I sprayed oil and it still didn't work but I took the key in and out and it started working. What I don't understand is, how can that be the problem because I thought that once you turned the key back nomatter what it should kill the ignition nomatter whats happening with you key fobs, I thought the fobs were what unlocked it and let you turn forward once the key is in.

spray WD40 or CRC60 or whatever you guys use, in the ignition switch, which
(as mentioned before ) is located down the end of the column, you can also adjust this switch back and forth if it's not cutting ignition when in the off possition, a backfeed from the altenator, shouldn't keep the car running when there's no power to the coil.
dave

a backfeed from the altenator, shouldn't keep the car running when there's no power to the coil.
dave
Well, yeah, but "back feed" means power is feeding back to the coil, from the alternater. Ever put in an MSD box and have this problem? They recommend the same solution.;) If you keep turning the ignition switch on and off and it's getting better, it's probably just corroded contacts from lack of use. Drive the sucker! Hotrods don't like to be neglected.:thumbsup:

mmmm I've heard this before, but never experienced it, so I'll have to think about that.
dave

the altenator charge wire usually go's straight to the battery, so if the ignition is off there should be no circuit between the alt and ign. unless it's going through the solenoid ? or am I missing something ? it's early and need another coffee !
dave

I'm not exactly sure how it works. Normally, I know exactly why a certain thing happens in a certain situation. This is one of those things that doesn't pop up too often, but always has the same solution, so I never bothered to figure out "why". But like I said, if it's getting better with use, probably a sticky switch or corroded contacts.

It seems to have stopped doing since I put some oil in the hole, but I do have an msd 6a now.

You've got to get the switch adjusted just right and then more silicone spray and some contact cleaner will fix it !
dave

It might have just been a sticky lock then ?
dave

Thats what I'm thinking but time will tell.