I recently replaced my external voltage regulator with a (I think) Sorenson Solid State regulator from Advance Auto. After that, I noticed that it overcharged a lot. I mean like 17+ volts at 1500 rpms. I knew that wasn't right, but it was too late to go back, so I parked the car determined to get it replaced the next day. Well, went to start it today, and the battery is stone dead, the GEN light was on faintly. I jumped it, and now the regulator acts normal. It charges from 12-14.5 volts and I drove it for about a half hour just to make sure the battery was all charged. The GEN light does not come on any more and all seems fine. Just for insurance, I picked up a Wells unit from Autozone. Did jumping it jolt the regulator into functioning again? I have my spare on hand just in case.

I dought it was the solid state reg. it sounds like it was overcharging a low battery, 17 volts is high, the battery must have been realy flat.
dave

Is the new regulator grounded to the radiator support.?
If not the solid state ones do funky things.
The Gen light being on is caused by a current draw killing the battery due to the regulator not being grounded.

If it was overcharging a low battery, wouldn't it have charged at 17+ volts after getting jumped? I have a ground from the regulator to the inner fender, and from the regulator to the back of the alternator. After jumping, it acted totally normal, gen light stays off when the engine is off too. I can't believe that its not grounded, being mounted where it is and with two separate ground cables. It was night and day; after installing the new regulator it was like it wasn't regulating at all. After the jump start, it acts completely as it should.

where were you getting these readings, from the gage in the car or a meter at the battery ?
dave

Readings are taken from the voltage gauge inside the car. I've tried four other brands of NEW regulators and none of them will even charge at all. Only this one will charge, but the penalty is draining the battery when the car is off. I'm thinking of going internally regulated, but I'm not sure that will solve my problem. It seems that the regulator that 'works' is sticking or something, but it charges fine! Maybe I will just wire a switch behind the headlight or something to turn the regulator on and off. BTW, I have a ground running from one of the regulator bolts to the back of the Alternator, another ground wire going from another mounting bolt to the inner fender, and the third mounting bolt holds down the condenser that attaches to the post on the side of the regulator. Also, the regulator has metal tabs that mount directly to the rad. support and I've made sure those connections are grounded. What am I missing?!?? There is no battery drain with the other 'non-working' regulators.

have you had the altenator checked out, the gen light staying on (or glowing)
when the key is out is strange ! 4 regs can't all be FUBAR ? it has to be something else, it's been awhile, but could a faulty diode cause this ??? anyone else ?
dave

It is a new alternator, about 2 days older than the 1st regulator. Just for fun I had it tested and wouldn't you know its good. I'm stumped. I also have replaced ALL the wiring between the reg. and alt.

gen. light glowing with key out ??? something else in the car is drawing current, disconnect everything ! one circuit at a time by pulling fuses out of the fusebox and put a multimeter or a test light between the + battery post and the + cable, if it glows or the meter on AMPS reads anything more than a few milliamps, something is drawing current, it may be somthing really simple like a glove box light, although it sounds like you've allready eliminated the obvious stuff. try the lighting circuits that aren't fused as well by unplugging them one at a time. running out of sudgestions, I'm probably missing something simple ? anyone else ?????
dave

I'm thinking of going internally regulated, but I'm not sure that will solve my problem.
Converting to a internally regulated alternator is very easy and they are much better than the externally regulated system. You can even use the original wiring. See pic for basic conversion


http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/alternator_wiring_pic2.JPG

It is the regulator that is causing the drain. I disconnected it last night, and today the battery is still charged. I'm trying to figure out why A.) this regulator is the only one that works out of five new ones and B.) why it also drains the battery.

Is there a part number or make/model I can tell the guy behind the counter for an internally regulated alternator that will fit my brackets? I am done with messing with this stuff.

Is there a part number or make/model I can tell the guy behind the counter for an internally regulated alternator that will fit my brackets? I am done with messing with this stuff.All the alternators have the same bolt pattern so they will bolt up, what you need is one with the correct "clock position" (clock position is where the 2 small terminals are in relation to the mounting holes).
What kind of brackets? Is the alt mounted on the pass or drivers side. Is the bolt for the slot on the bracket on the top or bottom of the alt? With this info you can get a alt with the correct clock position. Go here for more info on alt's, clock positions, and part#'s
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

I got a one-wire alternator and instlaled it today, all is well. The guy behind the counter told me to just hook up the battery connection, and nothing to the two-prong connector on top of the alt. that looks like this - - . He said something about it not needing it and being 'self-exciting'. Why are the tabs there if not needed? It works fine and charges instantly with just the one-wire hookup.

With the one wire alternator, the GEN light won't work at all. With one wire alternators the engine usually have to be reved some for the alternator to start working. I would add a voltmeter so you will know when it's charging and when it isn't.