what are all the products needed to mold/mount a plastic hood scoop to a metal hood?

what i planned on doing is using fusor, im not sure which product though, but i was going to glue it with that, and then put self tapping sheet metal screws in to hold it in place.. then after it is cured, i would back the screws out and then use duraglass to fill/mold the scoop, then finally use the plastic filler to smooth it all out.

what you guys think abut this plan? which product by fusor should i get? is there anything else i should get to do this project, the scoop is almost off the hood now.

aaron

Is the scoop fiberglass or plastic? what kind of plastic, ABS?

the scoop is plastic, im not sure of the kind though. it was on the car when i bought it, and im redoing it. sorry, not sure. i think it might be ABS, not all to sure though.

how would you go about patching 50 or so holes from pop rivets in a hood? would you taper the holes and fill it with duraglass? or use fiberglass cloth stuff? my shop teacher says to do either of both, but i was thinking it was ok to just put the scoop back on the hood, and fill the holes in when i mold the scoop back on.


aaron

Fusor 147/148 should work well. Use the self drillers as I did and remove after setup. Your DA sander with 80 grit will pay for itself now. Feather it out to your preference. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Here's mine
http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/hood_primer.jpg

I finished it last night as far as the area at the back of the scoop and am ready to sand and paint when the time comes....

thanks, i think i will use dura glass to fill it in, and then plastic to smooth it out..
few quick questions..
How would you go about patching 50 or so holes from pop rivets in a hood? would you taper the holes and fill it with duraglass? or use fiberglass cloth stuff? my shop teacher says to do either of both, but i was thinking it was ok to just put the scoop back on the hood, and fill the holes in when i mold the scoop back on.

i have a picture of the hood w/ most of rivets drilled out, i will get one tomorrow of the scoop off the hood.

you said the hood needs to be primerd to make the fusor effective correct? and what did you use to cut the hole out, i was thinking the plasma cutter, or should i use like the sheers or somthing?


thanks again

aaron

Originally posted by BowtieAaron:
How would you go about patching 50 or so holes from pop rivets in a hood?
I think you will need to put some kind of backing under the holes befor trying to fill them in. I would consider using Fusor to attach a 24 ga strip of metal to the underside of the hood and then fill from the top with poly glaze putty. Those holes should disappear.
I have a picture of the hood w/ most of rivets drilled out, i will get one tomorrow of the scoop off the hood. You said the hood needs to be primerd to make the fusor effective correct? and what did you use to cut the hole out, i was thinking the plasma cutter, or should i use like the sheers or somthing?

Read the instructions for using the Fusor, but I believe it states that a good epoxy primer surface is best to attach to... and I used an air nibbler to cut the hole out.
http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/hood_hole.jpg

John, thanks alot man.

well, im not to sure if im going to use the old scoop now, it is in poor shape around the edge where you mount it on. there is a hole less than an inch from each hole. i was planning on attempting to make a metal L88 scoop, but again, thanks for the help.

aaron

I have a stock hood if you need it for free, a couple of dings here and there, but you would have to arrange shipping. Bob

Bob, thanks man, i will talk to my parents about it. about what do you think it will cost to ship? 30.00 or so, or more? i think my one friend might actually have a hood though.

but thanks for the offer


aaron

Hey aaron, the last hood I shipped went to california on yellow freight for $80. Expensive shipping but the price is right. My zip code is 49814 and they weigh about 85lbs, Bob

thanks bob for the offer, i think i will pass on it though, i am going to try to get my hood fixed and then if i cant get it fixed, i will let you know, thanks again.


aaron

Originally posted by baddbob71:
Hey aaron, the last hood I shipped went to california on yellow freight for $80. Expensive shipping but the price is right. My zip code is 49814 and they weigh about 85lbs, Bob Hey Bob, I'll take it :D I'll do to it, what I did to mine and sell it for a profit... a nice weekend project to help pay for some parts.. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Hey Texas70 (or anyone else that might know),

What's the theory behind having the "scoop" facing the windshield as oppose to the front of the car, where direct airflow will enter? I'm thinking because of rain, debris, etc, but if the idea is to get as much air to the air filter as possible, then why not a front facing scoop?

Originally posted by dobodob:
Hey Texas70 (or anyone else that might know),

What's the theory behind having the "scoop" facing the windshield as oppose to the front of the car, where direct airflow will enter? I'm thinking because of rain, debris, etc, but if the idea is to get as much air to the air filter as possible, then why not a front facing scoop? I am not really sure, but I believe it is to allow superheated air to exit the engine compartment quickly and also to provide clearance for a high rise manifold. I plan on having my air cleaner up into the scoop area so that I might get some cooler air into the carb. I will be very interested to hear from others about the physics behind it myself..... graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The theory was discovered by Grumpy Jenkins years ago I believe. At high speeds there is a lot of high pressure air at the base of the windshield. The rear opening scoop allows pressurized fresh air into the carb. The hood must be sealed to the air cleaner for this to work properly. And you must use a filter to straighted the air flow out going into the carb or a velocity stack of some kind. If the hood isn't sealed to the hood the scoop will just act like a hot air vent for the radiator which is not good considering the heat that will enter the carb. Notice how all the new cars, every single one of them have an air intake that routes fresh cool outside air into the engine. Fresh cool condensed air is less sensitive to detonation and preignition than hot air. If the scoop isn't sealed to the carb some way there will be no benefits just another escape path for engine/radiator heat. Tape a feather to the opening of the scoop and take her for a run :D A ram air box would be a good way to go if sealing the hood isn't an option. Bob