Okay here's the deal. I cannot make up my mind on which fuel system to run. I want a pump I can drive 50 miles everyday and not worry about it. I want to be able to cruise for hours at a time and not worry about the fuel pump. Here's a list of the set ups I've been thinking of.

1) Aeromotive 11203 Street Strip fuel pump with matching filter and bypass regulator.

2) Mallory Comp 140 w/ matching filter and bypass regulator.

3) 2 Holley Blue or Jeg's generic brand fuel pumps mounted side by side into a y-block incase one dies, I can flip a switch. This will be dead headed.

4) Barry Grant 220HR or 220RR with bypass.


Any other suggestions???


Joe

Whatever you choose, (they'll all be fine) just make sure it is a continuous duty fuel pump. Race pumps are only made to run a little while at a time. Continuously running them will dramatically shorted the life. A continuous duty pump is designed to do what your talking about.

Avoid the BG pumps at all cost. BG wont sell you the parts to repair it. I have A BG 2 port fuel regulator just needs a diaphram and they want me to send it in for repair they wont sell me the part. I'd go with the Holley Blue pump I have one on my car 14 years and counting. Went on a 500 plus road trip this summer and no prombles. I drive 42 miles a day round trip when I take it to work 3 times a week in summer. Just clean the small screen in the pump 1 a year and your done.

Avoid the BG pumps at all cost. BG wont sell you the parts to repair it. I have A BG 2 port fuel regulator just needs a diaphram and they want me to send it in for repair they wont sell me the part. I'd go with the Holley Blue pump I have one on my car 14 years and counting. Went on a 500 plus road trip this summer and no prombles. I drive 42 miles a day round trip when I take it to work 3 times a week in summer. Just clean the small screen in the pump 1 a year and your done.


Are you using the supplied regulator or a bypass?(I know you said you have a BG diaphram reg., but you said it's broke so I didn't know if you had something else in there for now) Also, which filter are you using, and is it before or after the pump?


Joe

I used the supplied regulator that came with blue pump. Now I am using this one. Holley Big-Port Regulator
Die cast aluminum regulator is adjustable from 4-1/2 to 9 psi. Designed with one 1/2'' NPT inlet port and two 1/2'' NPT outlet ports with minimal flow restrictions. Includes mounting hardware. The least restrictive, highest flowing production regulator for a single 4-bbl system - race or street.
It the best one even comes with the fittings and 1/2 in and out. If you need a fuel system set up diagram let me know i can send you any set up you are intersted in. Dave

I used the supplied regulator that came with blue pump. Now I am using this one. Holley Big-Port Regulator
Die cast aluminum regulator is adjustable from 4-1/2 to 9 psi. Designed with one 1/2'' NPT inlet port and two 1/2'' NPT outlet ports with minimal flow restrictions. Includes mounting hardware. The least restrictive, highest flowing production regulator for a single 4-bbl system - race or street.
It the best one even comes with the fittings and 1/2 in and out. If you need a fuel system set up diagram let me know i can send you any set up you are intersted in. Dave


Believe it or not, I have one of those Holley big-port regulators. It's even got brand new XRP fittings and one has the boss for a gauge to boot. My buddy gave it to me because he decided to go to a bypass regulator before he even got the car together. I just didn't know how much life difference there was between dead head and bypass regulators. I've heard that blue pumps are not supposed to be bypassed b/c they're made to be dead headed. No matter what your question is, you're always going to get mixed answers. Your pump works good, but one of my buddies burnt one out in a week. However, one of my friends has a blue pump in his stock motor'd bronco he drives everyday.


Joe

You can run a blue pump with a bypass regulator, no problems. I'd recommend that, rather than the dead head regulator, for 2 reasons:

Noise - that holley blue is a very loud pump. Not a "good" loud either. A return regulator will quiet it down some.

Life- I know there are people that have had no trouble using a blue on the street. I'm not one of them. I used to drive on the street about 8-10k/year, and a blue would only last 1-2 years with the dead head reg. The second pump that failed was because the internal releif valve hammered itself farther in the body to the point where the spring wouldn't build any pressure anymore. Using a bypass reg would have prevented this, as the pump wouldn't have had to run on it's 14psi relief valve constantly.

I've since switched to a return reg, and have had no more problems. The last blue I had was quite a bit quieter with the return reg. It was still too loud for my taste, and I switched to a carter electric, which is quieter yet.

You don't list how you are going to use it so I'll say this. The pumps you have listed like to be gravity fed. You need to sump your tank or run a fuel cell. Having them hooked up to a stock style pickup reduces their lifespan considerably. I tried 2 Holleys, a Mallory 140 and another which I don't remember the brand and none of them lasted. Went to a carter 172(mechanical) and never looked back.

50 miles a day? That's a daily driver.
Quiet is important as is a good installation job.
Buy the better one. $$$

69 butternut

You don't list how you are going to use it so I'll say this. The pumps you have listed like to be gravity fed. You need to sump your tank or run a fuel cell. Having them hooked up to a stock style pickup reduces their lifespan considerably. I tried 2 Holleys, a Mallory 140 and another which I don't remember the brand and none of them lasted. Went to a carter 172(mechanical) and never looked back.


Sorry I wasn't specific. I've got a 15 gallon aluminum fuel cell raised up high so I can mount the pump and filter in the trunk same from the weather and road debris. The tank outlet should be about 2-3 inches higher than the pump inlet when all said and done.


Joe

50 miles a day? That's a daily driver.
Quiet is important as is a good installation job.
Buy the better one. $$$

69 butternut


Yes, it is a daily driver.;)


Joe

You do know the top of your fuel cell has to be level, or lower then the top of your rear tires, right? (So says NHRA)

I have the Aeromotive A-1000 pump with return style regulator. It's been on my car for several years now with no issues. I've made several 2000 mile highway trips with it..agian..no problem. As far as electric pumps go..its' by far the quietest one I've ever run.

If it died tomorrow..I'd order another in a heartbeat.

JIM

You do know the top of your fuel cell has to be level, or lower then the top of your rear tires, right? (So says NHRA)


The top of my fuel cell is level. I've never heard that your fuel cell has to be lower than the top of your rear tires...None of my friends car's fuel cells are lower than the rear tires, and they're all 9seconds or better. That rule would make more sense regarding open wheel cars (i.e. dragster, altered, etc.)


Joe

I've had good luck with the Carter electric pumps. Have used them on numerous cars since the late 60's & have never had a failure.
Mike

The fuel cell rule that it has to be lower than the top of the tire has been around for years. I remember hearing it 20 years ago when my dad built his last car. However I've never seen it enforced or even brought up. I think the only time it could possible is a stock gas tank, or a tube chassis car where the tire is high up in body.

I've got a 1000 HP, COMPLETE, mostly brand new fuel system for sale. Check this link:

http://www.chevelles.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=8353

I've got a 1000 HP, COMPLETE, mostly brand new fuel system for sale. Check this link:

http://www.chevelles.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=8353


I appreciate the offer, however I already have a cell and a bunch of fittings. Irregardless, I'm running a carb not EFI. Thanks anyway.

Joe