I think i will use Mobile 1 Full synthetic since it treated my Grand Cherokee well through all my abuse.

I am not sure how many quarts and what kind I should use.

I live in Southern California and here are my details:


65 SS
MSD Pro Billet (Ready to Run) 8360 distributor
mild small block 350
Edelbrock Performer RPM cam (duration @ .050" intake/exhaust 234 degrees and 244 degrees. Lift .488" and .510")
matching intake manifold
Edelbrock gear drive (quiet).
Comp Cam roller tip rockers.
Holley 600
BM turbo 350 transmission with the deep sump fluid pan
3,000 stall converter
stock ten bold with 373 gear non posi
heads were rebuilt with he engine. And they are the double hump 1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust
upgraded valve springsThanks for taking the time to answer such a basic question.

What was the question?

ANY version of Mobil1 will be great. But based on what I remember reading about the zinc in oils, I went with the thicker stuff - 20w50. Since the synthetics flow great even at those incredibly low temps you'll be experiencing in Hollywood, it should work fine for you as well.

So go with 20w50 oil huh. Yeah, I was unsure if the crazy hot summers or semi cold winters had an effect on oil.

What is the opinion on the lucas stuff I see in every part and performance shop?

Beautiful '70 by the way

Lucas works on older worn out engines to stop oil leaks and burn. Trans fix helps also.

at 5 bucks a quart (or whatever ungodly price it is)...it better be good

stops leaks eh? Maybe I should give it a try.

Do you need to do it durring an oil change, or can it be done by itself?

Some Lucas motor oil Additive reading ----> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm


Pat

Find a local Amsoil dealer. Nothing better on the market, proven in multiple tests.

A full synthetic will find a way to leak out where none has leaked out before. If your engine already has some leaks, the synthetic will make the worse. Good synthetics are good in most applications, but be aware that they have this downside.

Find a local Amsoil dealer. Nothing better on the market, proven in multiple tests.

We use the AMSOIL in all the race engines we build and have for years with zero problems and no leaks.

If you are buying and oil that needs an additive then you are buying the wrong oil. HMMMMMMM

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A full synthetic will find a way to leak out where none has leaked out before. If your engine already has some leaks, the synthetic will make the worse. Good synthetics are good in most applications, but be aware that they have this downside


You know i see this all over the net but know one yet can tell me why it cause leaks. This is a mystery that will never be solved.

You know, my Jeep Grand Cherokee did leak oil, but I tell you what. in the 5-6 maybe less maybe more years that i had it and had mobile 1 in it, all the problems I had before seemed to just disappear. The only maintenance needed was replacing the rear end every 6 months from driving up on curves to skip traffic and launching it off jumps at the bottom of hills. But I never once had any concern about that engine. it ran without fail. Just turn it on and speed off. There was never any warming up or anything.

Becareful of some of the Mobil 1 products as they have changed there formulars do the govenment and there none racing will hurt flat tappet cams as I deal with some engines shops that have found out the hard way.

Mobil 1 will clean your engine as you use it. It doesn't cause leaks, but if you're engine has leaks now, and has sludge blocking the leaks, it will leak more. No reason not to use it, your engine is still way better off.

Mobil 1 complies as ALL the oils due - lowering levels of zinc. The lower levels of zinc in oil are hurting flat tappets - but Mobil 1 has better lubrication and hurts far less than conventional IMO. I use the 20w-50 because it has higher zinc than the lower weights.

Synthetics do not cause oil leaks, they just find ones that didnt leak before with dino oil.. Ive used it on the Z, with 144k miles it still runs like new.
Everyone has their favorite but Im betting they are all pretty close.

Jim, I wouldnt bother with all the additives, IMO snake oil and a wallet drainer. :beers:

Mobil 1 will clean your engine as you use it. It doesn't cause leaks, but if you're engine has leaks now, and has sludge blocking the leaks, it will leak more. No reason not to use it, your engine is still way better off.

Mobil 1 complies as ALL the oils due - lowering levels of zinc. The lower levels of zinc in oil are hurting flat tappets - but Mobil 1 has better lubrication and hurts far less than conventional IMO. I use the 20w-50 because it has higher zinc than the lower weights.
Isn't the 20-50 a racing oil? maybe thats why it has more zinc.

I don't think they label it as a racing oil.

According to Mobil if it doesn't say RACING OIL on the bottle its had the zinc and phoshate lowered and should not be used in racing engines with flat tappet cams.

Now being that i no nothing about cams, would my engine be considered a racing engine or have a flat tappet cam?

To me the keys to engine longevity are warming the engine oil when cold and allowing the oil temperature to come down after working hard in high temperatures.

Synthetics are great in extreme cold weather climates because they flow much better than regular oils and will withstand a lot higher oil temperatures without breaking down.

For the average situation conventional oils are just fine for your basic domestic car or truck. 5/30 in winter and 10/30 or 10/40 or 15/40 in summer.

I have switched to Rotella T 15/40 for summer use and go back to a conventional 5/30 for the winter beaters and synthetic 5/30 in the new stuff.

Using the block heater when really cold for a few hours is sure noticeable when turning it over.

Never had an engine, tranny or dif failure!