I am going to build a new motor. I have already purchased a 454 block.

Question is... Do I build a 496 or a 468? The stock steel crank is still available to purchase for the same person I bought the block from but I was thinking about building a 496. Is a 9.5 to 10:1 496 with an appropriate very streetable Voodoo cam with a RPM Air Gap intake, ported 781 heads with 2.19/1.88 valves, 850 DP carb going to be overkill for a 71 Chevelle with minimal weight transfer. I am running a TKO 600, 3.73 posi 12 bolt. Is a 468 built virtually identical to the previously mentioned 496 going to be basically the same in the seat of pants feel. I drive the car in town and through the twisties in some hills near my home. No intention or do I care what the ET would be on the car (not the car's reason for being built).

Can someone give me so HP/Torque estimations. I know its tough without the cam specs but realistic idea.

Where has been a HP/Tq point when you guys have said that more is just useless power? (please no comments "You can never have too much power!")

Mine at about 9.8 CR. with 2.19"/1.88" cast-iron Merlins, a CC 282S solid cam, a Holley Strip Dom and a tuned 3310-2, 750 carb. and 1.75" dia, 4-tube long headers per D2k supposedly should put out in the range of 550hp at 5500 rpm and 580 t at 4500 rpm!!

I just call it my great big "tow-truck" motor!! He, He!!

Now for the interesting part!

Per Drag at something like my 3400 pounds weight First Gen. car, M-20 trans, 3.31's and good tires, good strip conditions and aggressive driving style IF I don't break anything AND can get it to HOOK, time's are supposed to be in the 10.5 second range at 130 mph!!

Heck, I will be happy with an 11.+ w/o breaking anything..

I know this is ALL just sim. stuff but never the less a mild 496 motor WILL put out some power!!

Add no more than a good old CC 288AR solid street roller, a bigger carb and headers and you are looking at 650 hp, if not mistaken...

pdq67

Hello Jestor605:

I run a 70 z28 which is basically a Chevelle with a different Skin M21 and 3.08 12 Bolt Posi. BBc 468 powered. Eagle Crank & Rods 9.6:1 TRW Forgings Severe dutry 2.19/1.88's in a 781 Oval Port 119cc camber, Comp Cam Pro Mag Rockers and Jomar Girdle. 7 qt Side Kick Morrosso w/ Full length Milidon Diamond Windage Tray. Edelbrock Air Gap topped with an 80511 NASCAR 830Dp with throttle plate holes plugged. Donovan Cam Gear Drive to a Comp Cams Mechanical Roller CB-288AR-10 246/246 Deg and .623"/.623" lift w/ 110 CL set at 104 degrees and Crower Hippo Roller Lifters.

Many would think the 3.08's are too tall but man can you cruise 65 mph @ 2200 rpm with lots of torque in 4th gear to pull away with out shifting down. The Gas mileage is incredibly good compared to lower gears. Because the Chevelle is somewhat heavier then my ride I would consider 3.23's or 3.31's for HWY cruising.

I advise if you order a Mechanical roller be wary that the Comp Cams PN with the "8" suffix is a Cast Core. There is nothing wrong with this but do NOT assume that it will Rev beyond 6500 Without Flaking the Lobes. Just set the Rev limiter to say 6200 rpm. If you intend to rev higher and use higher spring pressures Com CAMs can grind the same profile on a Billet Core and install a Cast Distributer drive Ring for about $30 more then the cost of the Cast Core. Lunati VooDoo Billet Street Cams seem to be were it at these days and are developing a reputation as being exceptionally strong and maintenance free.

I do not think a 4 Bolt or Forged crank are necessary but believe forged rods and Hypereutic or Forged Pistons are required.

Hope this helps.

If you check my Ride - you will see that I can carry alot of weight and presently fabricating a Stage 2 Hitch that will bolt onto the Rear Bumper mounting brackets
(http://www.camaroforums.com/m_28023/tm.htm)

Stroke it. If you don't, you'll always wonder what it would have been like. Once you feel comfortable with the 468's power, you'll want more. That's one of the downfalls of our disease :D