Can I use some flat stock to box my stock rear lower control arms. I've seen the convertion kits and it looks like $30 for some bent sheet metal. Just wondering about a cheap trick.

Yes, I just used some 1/8" x 2" flat bar. I took my time welding them so they did not warp from the heat. Had no issues.

I've seen the convertion kits and it looks like $30 for some bent sheet metal. Just wondering about a cheap trick.

The conversions are designed to support the area of the control arm where the sway bar bolt passes thru.
Welding in a piece of pipe before installing the plate will serve the same purpose.
This tech article will help...
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref16.html

Thanks....
I was planning on putting the pipe in like you said to strenghthen it. Also, if I do this will I ruin the bushings. Original bushings but I cant afford new ones now, eventually will replace them but not now

Original bushings but I cant afford new ones now, eventually will replace them but not now

I'd recommend waiting until you can also replace the bushings...less than $20 each and I guarantee they need replaced. The effort in boxing the control arms and adding a sway bar is really wasted without bushing replacement.

Thanks for the response and I will wait until I get the new bushings.

I could swear I've seen the inserts for sale somewhere??? I need one. Thanks, Mike

To see the boxing process see this link
http://www.leverfamilysite.com/Boxing_Lower_Control_Arms.htm

Personally, I really doubt there is any benefit to boxing the arms. If they flex rotationally because the box is open on the bottom so what? They still are the same length and thus maintain the axle location just the same.

Now the reinforcement for the sway bar bolts is a different story. I just got through doing my arms and some backyard engineering this weekend. Some bozo has mounted a sway bar but did not bother with spacers. So it was only so tight and had been working itself around. I measured for spacers at about 1 1/8" and went comparing and measuring at the hardware store...

I found 1/4" galvanized pipe couplings to be a reasonable fit on the 7/16" bolts and about 1 1/16" long. A 1/32" compression of each side of the arm seemed inconsequential, so that is what I am running. Less than a $1 apiece and no cutting :thumbsup:. They really do not need to be welded at all. Sure they would be easier during install/removal if they were welded, but I don't plan on taking them apart that much.

Unfortunately the numbers on the pipe couplings don't match :p