Last night i started stipping the paint off of my chevelle. I started with the trunk lid, now what? It in pretty good shape the holes that used to have the chevelle emblem rusted a very little. Should that be welded or bondoed? What kind of primer should i use? do i need a gun and a compressor? I plan on doing i panel at a time just so i dont spread my self to thin. Any help would be greatly appreciated… Thanks guys, i appreciate the help.

PS I stripped it with razor blades with no handles worked real well…

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's

My engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
updated pictures to come after the weekend :D

You stripped it with what???
Easiest Way is to use chemical stripper (Rock Miracle) and then DA the paint off (Electric Drills Work fin if you dont have a compressor). Get every little bit off.

Well, anyway, the next step is welding any patch panels you need on the car, then grinding the welds, sealing the seams.
Next-Bondo, then metal etching primer (2 part is recomended), Then you can use a primer/filler over that.

Next, block sand to perfection. Use a 12" block with 200 grit to start, sanding lightly. Use guide coats of a contrasting color to check for dips. Rinse and repeat, alway repeat (to quote Homer Simpson). Dont skimp out on the primer filler stage, or else you will get a wavy paint job.

I recomend using a Compressor and a gun, paint cans will give you orange peel galore.

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1970 Chevelle Malibu (http://communities.msn.com/TeamChevelleMalibuDreamerpics/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1)
307 (http://communities.msn.com/TeamChevelleMalibuDreamerpics/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=6) "fast as oiled snot!"

bellieve it or not razors, worked real well to, I was concidering the chemical stripper but i heard it was messy and tough to get rid off once its used?

Ok that makes sense im assuming the bondo is to flat out any waves in the metal and cover the welds.

The metal etching primer is this so it will adhere to the metal? I used a sander to touch up the lid after i was done does that make a difference?

Primer/Filler? does this adhere to the first coat of primer so the paint will stick?

Also do you think i could use por 15 under any of the primers? Will they work the same? Trying to prevent as much rust as possible here, Is there another product i should buy specificallt for this?
Thanks for all the help i really appreciate it…

do not bondo the holes where the Chevelle emblem was!!!!!!!!!!!!!. it will pop out http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
unless you back it up with fiber glass from behind that is. I would weld them up. if you don't have a welder take the trunk lid off and to a shop to be welded. I learned the hard way a long time ago.

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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons haul A$$ in style! "The Chopped Suburban". to see some goto www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com)

First of all you will need a da sander no getting around it. Now that you got the paint removed and paint remover is by far easir then a razor blade, even try 80 or 36 grit on your da sander to remove paint if you dont want to use remover. Now with the paint off try and do as much hammer and dolly work as needed to remove any dents and dings. Just get the dents close no need to try to get them perfect cause in most cases you might over work it and end up causing more work to fix it. Resand the part with 80 to 180 grit on da to remove any surface rust and provide adhesion for the paint. First I apply a coat of wash primer or self etching primer. This has much better corrosion and adhesion characteristics then expoy. Then I use an expoy primer like dp90 apply two coats let it cure for two to three days, then apply your bondo.

Bondo is meant to fix any imperctions in the metal up to 1/4 of inch and that is pushing it in my book. Dont use to fill holes or cover up rust, bondo is porous and will absorb moisture and rust back sooner then you think if used in that matter. Always make sure your area to be bondod is clean and oil free. Clean it every time with a wax and grease remover.

Also once you got your bondo sanded down and ready for primer apply one coat of wash primer over those bare metal areas, then apply your 2k or 2 part primer. Make sure you buy a quilty 2k primer make sure it is a urethane based. After you apply the 2k primer let it sit and shrink down wait about three to four days before you sand it. If you dont and sand it say the next day the primer will not have shrink down fully, you think that the primer is flat but once it shrinks down it becomes wavy again.

The only areas I would use por15 is on the frame or the floorpans of the car. Por 15 isnt meant to be doing what you want it to. So dont apply over any sheetmetal.

I notice that there are two different suggestions here: bondo directly onto bare metal, and bondo onto primered metal. Are both methods equal? Does bondo stick better to bare metal? Does primer-first fight corrosion better? What are your thoughts?

Brian