Painting my 70 ss with sherwin williams ultra 7000 cortez silver. Everything was going fine until I started to clear coat.:mad: In some spots the base silver is crazing when I put on a wet coat of clear. Doesn't happen when I put on a medium coat only a wet coat. My hood and trunk lid didn't do it, but spots on the body, doors, and fenders have done it. Any idea as to why this happens. Any suggestions for a fix. Thought I would scuff clear, seal with S65, reapply base coat and reclear. Am I stuck putting on medium coats and wet sanding the texture when It's all said and done? Any advice would be appreciated. Clear is auto body Master high solid content.

Sounds like the sealer was too light in those areas and reacting with something underneath.

when I sanded down one of these spots the sealer was unaffected. I used an exopy primer as a sealer then wet sanded it.

As for what I know of it sealer is a different animal if you had lacquer under it the fumes will react and melt when something else is sprayed on top and lacquer will expel microscopic fumes for now own. When I did my Chevelle I used sealer but not on the door jambs boy what a mess did the same thing wrinkled like it had paint remover on it.
I'm no expert other than my several years of playing with the paint in my shop maybe some body shop guys will help more.

I used the epoxy because of a link in chevelle tech to southern polyurethanes where they outline the perfect paint job. SP recommended using the epoxy for a sealer. My paint rep. also thought it was a good idea. I used the epoxy on every panel and only some panels crazed. I'm stumped as to why this happened.

This can be a problem with high solid clears, if you put on light coats it has way too much texture. Sounds like a scuff and reshoot, let your sealer and color dry as long as is recomended. Clear should not react with the base, but I'm not familiar with the products your using. I'm guessing the crazing was there and you couldn't see it until you put the clear on.
Did the roof come out all right, the spots you fixed? I would let everything dry for a couple days to a week and start over.
Silver is not the color to pick for a first paint job, as you learned EVERYTHING is magnified once you shoot the clear. Good Luck Where are you located, maybe somebody close could lend a hand?

I could almost watch the base craze after I shot the clear, so I don't think it was like that priop to the shoot. I wonder if the temp. might be a problem. I shot the clear this afternoon when it was near 60 degrees. Didn't think it would be a problem. I'm located in south central Michigan.
The roof repairs turned out well, but the large repair is where some of this crazing is happening. As for the choice of silver, I think it turned out really well except for this crazing problem. Went with Viper red ss stripes and used advice on chevelle tech to lay out and shoot and they turned out awesome. thanx for all the replies.

The cold will cause the clear to cloud from my experience, your body work material is likely what caused your problem you need to put on maybe 2 coats of sealer on that and let it dry completely before going ahead.
glassing compound has lacquer in it. When I was looking for my cause I sprayed some clear on a door that had not been touched the old paint started to wrinkle right away.

So can I scuff the clear and reshoot the base. Wondering about paint thickness also. Right now i've got three coats of base and three coats of clear. Also I did use a transparent sealer on my repair areas and still had this crazing problem in those areas. As for the clear clouding up i haven't experienced that.

So can I scuff the clear and reshoot the base. Wondering about paint thickness also. Right now i've got three coats of base and three coats of clear. Also I did use a transparent sealer on my repair areas and still had this crazing problem in those areas. As for the clear clouding up i haven't experienced that.
You can scuff the clear and reshoot, let it dry some though. At 60 degrees everything will take almost twice as long to dry, get it as warm as possible.

I've been out of the professional end of the refinishing business too long to be familiar with the system you're using, but in all the years of experience that I do have, I've never experienced a crazing problem that could be covered up successfully. The only fix I know of is stripping to the metal and start over. You pretty much answered your own question, when you said the only problems were the wet coated areas. With any system I've used, you almost need a sixth sense of when enough is enough. Do you live anywhere near Lansing ?

The funny thing is is that the clear isn't crazing, only the base coat. Once it's dry you can't feel the texture that is under the clear. So I figure if the crazing is buried under the clear then I can just hide it with more color and hopefully better control the clear the next time around. Will I have problems in the future by doing this. I'm located about 45 minutes south of Lansing between Battle Creek and Coldwater.

You can mix some color with the clear and blend over and try to cover it if that will work for you but it's going to be slightly darker there unless your going to clear the whole car.
If you have to look hard to see it in the sun you may want to do that but sometimes the sun will tell you if you have to start over or not.

I was thinking that if you were a little closer, I would take a look. Years ago, I agreed to paint a TR6 Triumph, for a freind. It had crazing all over it and I told him it needed to be stripped. In the end, he talked me into 2 coats of epoxy primer, sanded between coats, then a coat of sealer. I put on a couple coats of acrylic enamel with catalyst, which dries pretty fast. It looked good for awhile, but as finishes cure, they tend to shrink and show a lot more of whats underneath. I would try a test panel first, before putting a lot more time and money into this project.