I'm using R-M EP889 red oxide epoxy primer on my 'Velle, and need to know approx what air pressure to spray at. I'm sure there are many variables. I have read your archived posts, but still thess questions remain.

I don't know what tip size I have, but I'm pretty sure it's a HVLP gun. I did some practice runs, pun intended, and it seems to work fine at 10-15psi, but the finish seems grainy, like the surface of a basketball, just smaller bumps. Do I need to open up the product knob some more? Adjust the fan size?

Also, how many coats should I apply over this bare naked body? redface.gif

Thanks for any help you can offer...

Your spraying too low pressure, its not atomizing, just spitting out material. I'm really not too familiar with ep-889 cromated epoxy primer, i did however look at the tech sheet. Its ratio is 4.1.1-2, the 1-2 being ur reducer. Says to spray 1 light coat at 45-55 psi.

Jim is right, the question I have is why are you spraying epoxy on it? Is the body bare metal? What do you want the primer to "do", what is your plan in other words?

Thanks for your responses!

I'm putting on temporary paint. I have stripped the whole body down to steel, there were 3 different colors on top of the factory paint.

I'm just looking for the paint to last a couple years, until the cash is there for a body shop to do the work. My biggest problem right now is time, or lack of it. I need the vehicle ASAP, my daily driver is ready to give up for good.

I'm using epoxy primer per advice from the body guy at work. (4:1 with activator) I don't have the tech sheets.

I've got a regulator on the gun inlet with a gauge, it seems to work well.

Thanks again for the info guys, I'll up the pressure and see how it goes.

I should have just scuffed down the black paint that was there when I bought the car and had a shop shoot a color on top. The car had lots of filler in the 1/4's, and at close to $900 each for new ones, that's not an option for me.

The body looked straight before I got digging into it. graemlins/clonk.gif

Are you using a reducer, Correct ratio is 4:1:1-2. Thats 4 parts EP-889 1 PA897 and 1 or 2 parts UR Recucer. Think were wondering why the choice with this product? Its used as an adhesion promoter to apply polyester filler over galvanized metal.

I really don't know much about it. I asked one of the body guys at work, told him I want to cover up the body with paint for a couple of years till the cash is saved up for a body job. I told him I have a tight budget. I still have some of the mechanical work to do yet.

He said, go down to XXX Auto Supply, get 2 quarts of red oxide epoxy primer and the activator. He uses it when he works at home. He said to get the Acrylic Enamel/Urethane? paint and shoot a few coats on to see what it looks like. (I'm thinking I should go white to help hide the horrendous filler work)

He said not to worry about reducing it. He explained why, but I don't remember what he said.

I just want to slow down any corrosion that will happen before the real body job gets done. I'll probably have them take it down to metal again, and redo all the filler that I did.

My plan in the end is to have a nice driver. Not a restoration, just something I can drive all week, with the odd blasts down the 1/4 mile on the weekends. ;)

Thanks for all your time...

That being said problem #2 your having is under reduction. Expect further flowout problems without proper mixing. You should always follow manufacturers guidelines with all materials you use, your projects will come out much better and cheaper in the long run.

Great advice as always. graemlins/thumbsup.gif Thanks for your efforts, I'll track down the tech sheets.

It seems I'm getting excellent advice from the people I don't know, instead of the people I see every day. :rolleyes:

I'm sure I can get it to work better now.

Here is where i look up tech sheets, have to sign in w/password.Site is free. https://www.bodyshopmall.com/index_us.html

Great! I'll use that site when I'm ready for the paint as well.

Thank you.