Are the new fuel lines you order from ground up one piece? Is it a oversize shipping? I am talking about the lines from the tank to the front of the car.

[LIST]
Some company's send it all in one peice to the correct bends for the chassis. Other company's send it in a coiled roll and you have to bend it yourself.
I recently upgraded my 67 Malibu's fuel line from a 5/16 to 3/8. I just went to a tubing store, bought about 14 ft. of mid steel tubing and a 3/8 tubing bender and just made it myself by following to original bends on my 5/16 line.
Hope any of this helps!
wes

I got all my lines from the Right Stuff and was very please with the shipping and the lines fit great

When I got mine "Fine Lines" the gas line has a bend right in the middle to fold it in half for shipping purposes. The directions tell you to roll it out flat and make a straight out of the bend. Not a problem.
Roger

Can you find Stainless Steel 5/16 line in a roll? I have a bender and a flaring tool and think I could use the bulk stuff to make my own.

I don't believe that stainless tubing is sold in rolls. You can probably buy it in lengths of up to 8 feet long. Flaring stainless is also a little different. You will never be able to put a good double flare on it, nor is it really required. Its really worth the money to get your lines prebent, if you want stainless.
Andrew

The latest Summit catalog shows a 20' coil of 3/8" stainless tubing for $30.99

Maybe my best bet is to get steel line, bend it and then powder coat it. Sound like a plan to anyone?

Along with the rolls of stainless tubing, Summit also shows Russell's anodized aluminum tubing in 25' rolls for about the same price.

I bought the Summit brand aluminum tubing in 1/2" size, but the 3/8" roll is $10 cheaper than their stainless 3/8"

Would the anodized aluminum resist rust?

Those lines are either red or blue and they will resist oxidation.

The non-annodized line that I bought will eventually show a kind of white oxidation, though it won't ever "rust" like steel. Aluminum oxidation forms a kind of barrier coat so it doesn't really rot from within like iron unless it is exposed to something really harsh like salt water that can eat it away through galvanic corrosion.

Thanks for your replys. Are you using the aluminum tubing for fuel delivery?

Yes, I'm running new 1/2" line from tank to pump and from pump to filter (mech pump)

I can't say enough good things about 'Right Stuff' www.rightstuffdetailing.com (http://www.rightstuffdetailing.com) especially Dave. I was fortunate enough to get my full length lines (2 fuel, 1 brake) unbent. They were an exact match to my originals. If they are headed to a big show the will bring lines with them and you can pick them up at their booth. I'm not sure if they are heading your way. Dave actually met me a few blocks from my house on his way to a show. He didn't charge my shipping, I got a show discount and he wouldn't take a tip. Give him a call, maybe you can work something out.

:( Well, does not look like he is anywhere close to me. I am sure his lines are great but that is a lot of money for lines to me. Maybe I am mis-informed on pricing though.

Actually, the lines from Ground Up come from Right Stuff. The prices should be about the same.

Well here I go. I have located a company that sells stainless steel tubing. 1.89 ft. for 3/8 OD seemless in 20 foot straight sticks. Sounds like a good price to me.

Wellllll where is this company? How do we find it? Sounds like a good deal.

I think a lot of these "specialty" companies take well known common items and sell them at a premium to us unsuspecting money spenders.

Several of them take things sold/made by other companies and put their name on them ...as well as jack up the price big time.

We bought prebent stainless fuel lines from Classic Tube, and they are great.

We are curious however, if there is an advantage on the inside of the tubing for using stainless?

Does plain steel line start to pit and rust on the inside from the fuel?

The reason we ask, is that we have started to beadblast certain small parts in our beadblast cabinet, and then we clearcoat them with VHT Flameproof 1200 degree, and they turn out "GREAT".

We also do the same to the aluminum intake manifolds and water pumps, and talk about great protection and looks (We use duct tape for masking the areas we don't want to touch).

If you decided to use steel fuel line, then the VHT would be a great alternative.

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

This company is in Little Rock AR. Pipe and Tube Supply 501-372-6556. I found then by calling the local steel companies and asking if they carry stainless. Several said no and offered no other company they knew of that did. Then I hit on a recycler and he had the name of a company that delivered to Jonesboro at the same time bought scrap. I called them and the rest is they say is history.

Guess my math's off, but Summit's 20' coil of 3/8 stainless for $30.99 seems like a better deal even with shipping than 20' of straight stainless 3/8 tubing for $37 (20'x $1.85). Although it would probably be simpler to fabricate when you start off with a straight piece.

Pic of VHT Clear Coated Moroso HEI Holdown.

This shows what you can do with plain/normal steel products.

It actually turns out very simular to a "Pearl" effect, and we think that is due to the beadblasting.

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif


http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/LVMAXX/holdown2.JPG

My only concern would be rocks on the underside chiping the paint.

I just wonder about the coil. It would have to have a softness to it to be in a coil. Most stainless I have ever encountered was hard.

In my case, the straight piece won't have any shipping added to it. Sales tax yes, but does not make much difference in price to matter. I think the straight piece would be easier to make the proper bends for the fuel routing.