I'm getting real close to getting my Elky ready for the paint shop and was wondering how to best prepare.(I'm not painting it myself) Right now, the front fenders and hood are removed. (Mainly for ease of work)There is only the dash and Dynamat in the interior. All chrome, rubber and lights have been removed. I plan to remove front and rear glass. It is going to be getting a different color, so I'm trying to take care of all areas that need to change color. There is a little rust at the lower wheelwells. What's the feeling about fenders on or off? What about running gear? (Right now, it's not in the car.) I want it taken to bare metal, with a color sanded + clearcoat finish. Is the stripping something that can be done with chemicals without creating more problems for the painter? I've located a couple shops who have their own thoughts, but I'd like to get some neutral - third party - opinions from those who've been there-done that. Like anyone else, I'm trying to get the most out of the money spent.
Thanks for your help!
Bill

I prefer to edge and jamb all the panels and tub and assemble as much sheetmetal as possible for the final exterior paint application. I feel the extra time spent masking and burning the paint edges back is well worth the perfect color match. Metalics can be difficult to match when panel painting the sheetmetal off of the car. If you do go with a metalic have all of the parts ready and orientated to how the bolt on the car and spray them all at the same time with the same gun, same air pressure, humidity, temperature, etc. Solid colors are more forgiving and can be panel painted without problem as long as full color coverage is obtained- no hint of sealer or primer showing through to affect the finished product. Candy colors are even less forgiving.

Thanks, Bob!
I had one shop say they wanted it in parts and claimed they would have no problem matching color. The other shop said put it together like you said. I would think spraying all at once assembled would work better. Another question regarding rattle can primer... does Eastwoods 'Self-etching' primer work? I would like to save some shop time by striping and then shoot a light coat of this primer to keep rust a bay until it's in the paint shop. I would figure that they would remove it and put down what they want as a permanent primer. Would that be a waste of time?
Thanks for any tips,
Bill

I'm just learning to paint, so take my comments with that in mind. Sripping, sanding, and sealing your bare metal with etch primer will save you lots of money before it goes to the paint shop. I have used rattle can etch primer by Sherwin Williams. Good product but pricey at 10 bucks a can and it does not have the acid in it that you really want to bite the bare metal. Rattle can etch is best for sand throughs to bare metal after body work, and I suspect should only be used on tiny areas if possible. The etch primer that comes in the equivalent quart can that must be mixed with reducer and shot with a spray gun is the better course of action. Since it would cost you 100 bucks to use 10 rattle cans of mediocre quality etch primer, instead, I would suggest you buy a 20-40 dollar spray gun (i paid 20 bucks for a touch up gun, works great) and buy real etch primer from major line of paint, like SW,Dupont, PPG, and spray each panel with a gun after you strip, wash, and sand the panel. Etch primer by SW sprays thin and can easily be removed by the body shop if they chose to take it to bare metal before they go at it. Of course you will need a compressor and regulator, but for one panel at a time, like a fender or door, a small one should do. Don't forget the best respirator you can afford and read all posts on respirators before you venture into this area.

If you use a chemical stripper be sure to was the surface completely with water to remove and neutralize any residue. I'd stay away from any self etch rattle can primer- bogus stuff, it is illegal to package acid in an aresol.

Good to know... Thanks guys!