I'm currently running one of Harolds Ultradyne 288/296 Solid Flat Tappet cams. The specs are as follows for this cam:
Duration @ .050 255/263
Lobe Lift .3600/.3706
Lobe Separation 107

Seat Duration @.020 288/296
Gross Valve Lift .612/.630
Valve Lash (Hot) .026

I'm wanting to make some more power and am going to have the motor out of the car this winter, so I'm thinking of upgrading to a Solid Roller. My current combo is below:

496 CI BBC
4.310 Bore
Scat Internally bal. 4.25 4340 lightweight crank
Scat 6.385 H-Beam Rods
SRP Forged 5cc dome (with my heads works out to be around 11:1)
8" Internal Fluidampner
Ultradyne 288/296 F7, Solid FT
#206 Oval Port Closed Chambered Heads
-Had a bowl grind
-Heads were port matched to the intake
-Valves unshrouded
Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake
"Box Stock" Holley 950HP
Sumped stock tank, -10 line from rear to front into a Carter 172 GPH mechanical pump, -8 to Carb.
Hooker 1 7/8" Comp Headers
3" Exhaust into race-flow flowmasters dumped in front of axle
Stock GM 502 Crate motor water pump
March Billet Aluminum pulleys
Factory Fan w/clutch
Power Steering
Power Brakes

ATI Built TH400
Full manual valvebody
Continental 10" Converter(the best I can tell it flashes to about 4000)

12 Bolt, 4:10 gears
Completely stock 30 year old suspension
Air Bags are the only thing, 0 in left and 6.5 lbs in right
28x10.50 Stiff Sidewall

Best pass to date is in Sig.

My current plans are to put a Solid Roller in, and a Edelbrock RPM AirGap, and if money allows an 8 in converter along with a HR AntiRoll Bar. I've actually got a little money to play with this winter instead of having a baby last winter put the Chevelle on the back Burner.

Does anyone have any Cam Suggestions, that they would recommend, or maybe somebody good to call to order from. I'm not really worried about street driving that is limited to a maybe once a week to a cruise or something. I'm really wanting to get this car going faster, how much power difference can a person expect by going to a solid roller.

I'm new to the Solid Roller game, can someone tell me all the parts I'll end up needing to convert and what they might have spent changing over?

Sorry this is so long, but lastly, does anyone have anymore suggestions to make more power.

Thanks,

Matt

Can't do much for your cam recommendation but you should look into either Crower Severe Duty with their HPPO option or get some Isky Red Zones. They also have pin oiling but you can get 'em in a street version that doesn't squirt quite as much oil on the roller/cam point which helps keep oil pressure up at idle. Ping Mike Lewis (Wolfplace) for help on the Isky's, he's a great guy to deal with and can probably save you some $$$ on the Red Zones. Good luck, sounds like you have plans for a solid runner.

I'm currently running one of Harolds Ultradyne 288/296 Solid Flat Tappet cams. The specs are as follows for this cam:
Duration @ .050 255/263
Lobe Lift .3600/.3706
Lobe Separation 107

Seat Duration @.020 288/296
Gross Valve Lift .612/.630
Valve Lash (Hot) .026

I'm wanting to make some more power and am going to have the motor out of the car this winter, so I'm thinking of upgrading to a Solid Roller. My current combo is below:

496 CI BBC
4.310 Bore
Scat Internally bal. 4.25 4340 lightweight crank
Scat 6.385 H-Beam Rods
SRP Forged 5cc dome (with my heads works out to be around 11:1)
8" Internal Fluidampner
Ultradyne 288/296 F7, Solid FT
#206 Oval Port Closed Chambered Heads
-Had a bowl grind
-Heads were port matched to the intake
-Valves unshrouded
Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake
"Box Stock" Holley 950HP
Sumped stock tank, -10 line from rear to front into a Carter 172 GPH mechanical pump, -8 to Carb.
Hooker 1 7/8" Comp Headers
3" Exhaust into race-flow flowmasters dumped in front of axle
Stock GM 502 Crate motor water pump
March Billet Aluminum pulleys
Factory Fan w/clutch
Power Steering
Power Brakes

ATI Built TH400
Full manual valvebody
Continental 10" Converter(the best I can tell it flashes to about 4000)

12 Bolt, 4:10 gears
Completely stock 30 year old suspension
Air Bags are the only thing, 0 in left and 6.5 lbs in right
28x10.50 Stiff Sidewall

Best pass to date is in Sig.

My current plans are to put a Solid Roller in, and a Edelbrock RPM AirGap, and if money allows an 8 in converter along with a HR AntiRoll Bar. I've actually got a little money to play with this winter instead of having a baby last winter put the Chevelle on the back Burner.

Does anyone have any Cam Suggestions, that they would recommend, or maybe somebody good to call to order from. I'm not really worried about street driving that is limited to a maybe once a week to a cruise or something. I'm really wanting to get this car going faster, how much power difference can a person expect by going to a solid roller.

I'm new to the Solid Roller game, can someone tell me all the parts I'll end up needing to convert and what they might have spent changing over?

Sorry this is so long, but lastly, does anyone have anymore suggestions to make more power.

Thanks,

Matt


Matt,
To swap over to a solid roller you are looking at spending upwards of around 13 or $1400 in parts. I would suggest finding a set of Merlin aftermarket heads to feed your 496 inches. I think this would be your best bang for the buck and most power felt.

I would call Harold about the cam, but something in the .650-.680" lift range and ~255@.050 range on a 108-110 LSA would be what I would look at. Something like the Lunati 502A4lun, or 502A5lun. If you had an 8" converter you might go slightly bigger.

I agree with Gary 100% on the lifters. If you run a high volume oil pump, the "regular" Red Zones should be fine. For a stock volume pump I would definitely get the ones with the smaller oil holes.

Valve to piston clearance will have to be verified as well as new valve springs. I would not skimp on the springs as the cheaper roller springs are prone to breakage in my experience.

I would also replace the Fluidamper with an ATI Super Damper while I was at it.

Better heads (or more port work) would be the biggest bang for the buck as far as adding power. Do your ovals have 2.19 and 1.88 valves already? If not, they should. Aftermarket heads such as Brodix Race Rites would be killer, but you would have to have them milled a bunch to keep your compression up.

I once ran a 9.2:1 compression small (like .540" lift) flat tappet 468. We milled the heads to raise the compression to 11.5:1, put in a Lunati 50204 solid roller (great mid range bracket cam by the way!). Put on a 1150 Dominator and it was worth roughly 125-150Hp! It actually changed the converter stall from 4500 to 5600. Big jump IMO!

JMHO!

I'm certainly no cam expert but I can tell you when my engine dyno'd along with a 468 with same UD solid roller , same engine builder , same CR and intake but with 781 factory heads cleaned up and I had Brodix BB-O with cnc chambers I made more power ...with smaller motor .....so based on your combo I would look at a good set of heads before the cam FWIW

SRP Forged 5cc dome (with my heads works out to be around 11:1)


Even if the pistons are at zero deck height, your heads would have to be down to around 96 cc chambers to get 11:1 CR. Are you sure of the CR?

Ditto with the heads. That would be your best bang for the buck, especially with the cam and gear that you have now.

I think your combo should be faster with what you already have. Wasn't mr68 running 11.20's with that same basic combo in a 454? Are your listed E.T's with exhaust hooked up?

Rod

Get some canfields in the 110 chamber , i think competition products list them at like 1250.00 bare .

What do you want for an ET?

I have to agree, somethings very wrong here, with what you have to work with that car should be alot quicker than that.
The MPH is down, what rpms are you going over at?

What valves are in those heads ?
I wouldn`t be afraid to work them up some.

Again, post your expectations ET wise, that will help.

I'll try to answer everyones questions and I appreciate all the help.

"Even if the pistons are at zero deck height, your heads would have to be down to around 96 cc chambers to get 11:1 CR. Are you sure of the CR?"

The factory manuals list these heads at 97cc chambers. I don't know if that is accurate and since this was my first engine, I didn't know to check them.

Yes the heads have 2.19/1.88 valves. I can get a good deal(like $20, through a friend) on getting a cylinder flowed would that be interesting to see if I'm wasting my time.

The only reason I'm hesitant on switching heads is that the pistons have a very small dome(5cc's). All the aftermarket heads I've seen have such a big chamber I'd lose all the compression that I currently have. I honestly am not in a position to rebuild this motor this year. I've got some money to spend but am on a very tight budget. Buying AFR's or Brodix heads I can't do, I'd like to but with a new baby it just isn't possible.

I'd really like to see the car go into the low 11's right now. It has absolutely no suspension work done to it at all. It hooks really good however on 28x10.5's with the stiff sidewall.

Is my goal to high with this motor/head combo? In a couple of years as more money comes along, I want to get it into the tens(new heads, etc.) but can't do it right now.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,

Matt

i did run 11.20's at 121 mph with that set up , but i had fully ported 215's and 2.25 /1.88 valves. the 206 bathtub heads arent as good as the 215's, a friend of mine runs those (206)heads with the same basic set up as this guy same cam , intake, carb and he only runs 11.60 at 115 mph. get some better breathing heads dude! i'm now running 10.77 at 123 mph with a 460 the same solid flat tappet as you and rr ovals.

I'm almost afraid to get in here, and I'll be glad to work out a solid roller, but first tell me about your fuel pump and line........

UDHarold

Harold,

Fuel System is a stock tank, that is sumped, -10 line from tank to Carter 172 mechanical fuel pump. Thanks for chiming in, it sounds like my main problem may be in my heads?

Matt

Most of the aftermarket heads can be milled to 112cc or so.
If your CR is true, that would drop you to mid 9's for CR (approx)
I have had just fine success with 9.4:1 and pump gas in my 498. Although it never ran a low 11, it went right to the low 10's.
Cam is a Comp XR solid roller.
Heads are AFR 305's with the CNC option.

However, adding heads and a roller will run you upwards of 4 grand, and I gather this isn't in the budget.

I know of a pair of ported Edel rovals for a decent price.....110 cc chambers.

Ron

Ron, I didn't realize they could be milled that much. That sounds like a good way to go. I'm wanting to race one time in November, then I'm pulling out the motor to see exactly what I've got. The first thing I'll do is CC the heads and figure out the exact compression ratio. The block has never been decked so that will have to be checked out as well. Mid 9's compression would be great considering I would be able to run pump gas. The pistons at zero deck height with stock chambers on my heads were suppose to be 11:1. However the valves were unshrouded so I'm sure they are bigger than 97 cc's. However the motor still will not run on just pump gas without detonating, so it must have pretty decent compression. Thanks for the help.

Matt

my brodix race rites were angle milled by brodix to 108 cc
with the cnc chambers. ray

my brodix race rites were angle milled by brodix to 108 cc
with the cnc chambers. ray
Did they re-face the surfaces under the bolt heads also after that and correct the intake manifold face? Did you have any issue with fitment/alignment after that angle mill??

jim, they did re face all the bolt holes and true the intake surface 90 to the new surface. works perfectly. lost a little bit of compression from 10.4 to 10.0 but the car is stronger and 52 lbs lighter.

See ya at KCIR Nov 5 Matt, if I make it thru Tulsa Saturday and Sunday!!!

Some of the users of Harolds Ultradyne 272/282 have gone 115 mph. That's a smaller cam than yours and they were 454's which obviously is a smaller motor than yours. All of this, again, indicates to me that your 496 should be going faster. Piggybacking off of what Harold posted earlier, have you had a fuel pressure gauge on it at the track to verify things are adequate there?

father in laws 66 elky goes 11.14 at 120 mph with that cam, ported 049's and only 468 cubes and 10.0 compression. great cam! the best solid lifter flat tappet cam ever designed! (lol).

Bob, sounds good! I can't wait to get to the track again. My slicks are shot, I'm trying to find a set around here for sale, I'm suppose to buy a set off of a 10.5 outlaw car with a few passes on them but I don't know if he'll have them ready. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

Mr68, thanks for all of the info, maybe my cam isn't so bad for right now, but my motor needs more heads.

I'm going to check the fuel system. I'll try putting a pressure guage on it, is it possible this is a problem w/ the above fuel system. I know mc71454 had the same pump running a lot faster than me? What would you guys run for a fuel system, I was thinking about an Aeromotive A1000?

Matt

Bob, good luck in Tulsa!!

Matt,

If your engine feels flat and lazy at the top of 2nd, or in high, it is running out of fuel. If it does feel flat and lazy, one way to prove the fuel problem is to LOOSEN up the intake valve lash about .006", then make a couple of passes. If your car gains 1 mph with the looser lash, your engine is running out of fuel. I have used this system for about 25 years, and it gives you a quick answer. Then you have to find out why. You need #8 from your pump to the carb. If you have a Holley regulator from the 110 gph Blue pump in there, you need TWO, one for each float bowl.
Check it out and let us know.

UDHarold

By my estimation, you're missing at least 5 mph somewhere. mr68's statement about his father-in-law's car, with ported heads on a 454, puts you 7 mph down from your combos potential with ported "stock" heads.

I went looking for your full timeslip and saw you already had some suspicions about your low mph in this thread: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108729

Here's a comparison with Jeff65SS's 454 (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100573) with Harold's 272/282

70SS496-----------Jeff65SS
60' 1.598-------------1.832
330 4.698------------5.047
1/8 7.349------------7.716
mph 92.01-----------91.69
1000 9.66-----------10.032
1/4 11.641----------11.987
mph 113.50---------115.48

Not sure how much of a weight difference there is between the two cars. Maybe Jeff will chime in.

Matt, I have almost brand new Hoosier Radial slicks 30X9's with only 5 runs on them. Same tires power Ron454 Nova to 9.91 1/4m. and he states flat hooks like it never has before! Also agree that your weak point is head. Again my choice would be same head as Ron454 in the AFR 305 with CNC chamber and with this change alone with good suspension, tire should get you into the 10's easily! Is that fast enough for ya?!

RMChevelle, it looks like we are running the same mph at the 1/8, however, I pick up 21.49 in the back half, where he picks up 23.79. He has me by 3mph, on the back half. But I'm running 3 tenths slower, why is this?

So is everyone in agreement, my best bang for my buck would be heads? And to check the fuel system?

Any more suggestions?

Would it be beneficial to flow my heads to see what I got, or would that be a waste of money?

Thanks for the help.

Matt

Running that quick at only 113mph makes me think you lifted too soon. I think with my old 454 my best 60ft was 1.64 and it ran 11.78 @ 117mph with the same induction system (intake and carb) that I'm using now on the 505, the 454 did have 1.75" headers and a 10" converter.

Hi Matt-
I talked to you at the Vamp race in July, I had the purple '69. For comparison here is my best pass to date, ran this on October 7th at the last Vamp race:

60'.....1.609
330....4.688
1/8.....7.309 93.26 mph
1000...9.599
1/4.....11.542 114.57 mph

I would guess you have alot more it your car, we have similar heads but you have more compression and a better cam. My engine is 489 cu in with flat top pistons, about 8.5:1 compression. I also have a Comp hydraulic cam. Good luck at the track.