So if I have 1968 doors and am trying to put on 1969 1/4's - I am confused. Is that 6-7 inches going to prevent it? (This comes from a previoous thread where I was told there was 6-7 inch difference in doors) From what I can see it fits great around wheel well, the back glass, and trunk. The two places where I seem to have very small problems are first in front of the rear wheel well the bottom part fits or lines up perfectly with the bottom piece of car. When I mover closer to the door there is probably a quarter inch gap between new 1/4 and the bottom piece. The new 1/4 is higher so it does not line up with the bottom of door. The second place is in the door jamb. I think I can cut and make modifications there to make it fit. Has anyone else had this problem and am I trying to do something that is simply not possible?

Also does anyone know where to get the sponge things that Dean said are probably for anti rattle? I know my car will not be perfect but I would like it to be pretty and not a rattle trap! Thanks.

You can use pipe insluation in those appplications.

Pipe insulation? I really am clueless. I am a 46 year old marketing professor who is learning everything for the first time. I have always loved cars but never was allowed to work on them because it was considered a boy thing... Sorry I am not sure if pipe insulation will fill in the area where my 1/4's don't fit or if it should be used as a sponge. Also I am wondering if the spongy stuff will collect and hold moisture leading to rust?

There is no difference in 68-69 doors other than the windows and the location of the lock pull knob.

Dean, Any idea on how I should try to get this 1/4 inch. Should I just bend the new 1/4 to make it fit?

Do you have any pics of your 1/4 problem ? Pics of the good areas and the bad ? It might be easier for some of us to help if we could see just what is going on.

Okay I got a photo to attach. The bottom part at back of this close to wheel well in this picture is good. I can get it to line up fine. The problem is that the part closer to door is about 1/4 inch higher and then the line for gap between 1/4 and bottom panel is not straight.

Also I am wondering if the spongy stuff will collect and hold moisture leading to rust?


Do you plan to use it alot in the rain and collect leaves and things. There is a big misnomer. If this is going to be a daily driver and be left outside. Pipe insulation is closed cell which means it doesn't sponge water or attract moisture. If you paint the corresponding surfaces you wont have any problem. From factory the sponge between the inner and outter wheel well which was for dampening of vibration. It too was closed cell and the only way moisture was to enundate it is if you put the car in the "drink." With regards to moisture if it is going to be garaged and driven on sunny days then nothing to worry about at all. If it is a daily driver, sealing with paint will do the trick.

Rod

wow gail you sure are speedy! Weren't you working on the trunk just a few weeks ago??

....So it is as if the quarter was tilted upwards in relation to your door opening ?.....Have you tried clamping things into place from this area first, then working towards the rear ? You might have to play with the outer wheelhousing or other areas to get the correct angle.

Just another thought...as I look at your last pic again, it now looks to me that the 1/4 inch you are talking about is "in and out" at the front, not "up and down"....if the quarter fits everywhere else, bend the front of the quarter in, inside the jamb area and trim as nessesary to make things flush on the outside. Be sure to have the doors you will be using on the car for this final fit as well......Hey, I`m trying !

All good info, when you get it close put a few screws in it to hold it in place and hang your doors, decklid and tailight housings, then do your final adjustments, checking fit while welding. Looking good so far:thumbsup:

Gail not to worry on the lowqer 1/4 sticking out. Both of my 69's did it.
You got to have the door and the trunk lid on to line the 1/4 up. Pushing that lower area in and then welding will not be a problem so long as the lines look right with the door. These things aren't just going to drop right in. Mine went in the same as yours but understanding how to get the most out of it as you go is key. Start at the door with some help from a friend. Get the door gap looking good give a couple easy tack welds. Then check the lower area fwd You can tweak this a bit but will require some inner brace grinding to fit in. The inner brace on my car held that lower peice out like your is doing. I just ground back to fit. Once you get that peice in like it should just give it one tack and then move twd the rocker area. Once it's fitted go to the sail panel and trunk lid area. With the trunk lid closed see if you can get the gap tight on the trunk lid and sail panel looking good. If everything starts looking like it should you can finish the welding up. If not you only have a few tack welds to grind to reposition.

Good luck
RandyB

paint and resto 21yrs now, my B-day was this month. OUCH

YIPEE! This all actually makes sense. I was putting it on from the wrong direction. I have become obsessed with working on my car. I spend every moment not at school working on car. Trunk is ready except for the small pieces next to 1/4s. I also replaced both front inner wheel wells and front fenders. Still making some adjustments on front fenders. Thank you so much for your help!

Oh yeah, She's addicted!

Anytime. Heres a high five to ya. Keep it up.