Time for a replacement TH700, questions, advice (long) [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Time for a replacement TH700, questions, advice (long)


zeke67
Oct 18th, 06, 10:07 PM
My junkyard swap TH700 is on it's last legs after three years in the '67. No hard feelings, this tranny came from a junk vehicle I got for $50, 1988 model sitting for several years. I installed a shift kit and new converter and put it in the car. A real low-buck deal, so I don't really feel like this trans owes my anything.

I've got the TV cable right, other than I maybe have what BTO calls a "short spring" because of the throttle-closed geometry. This is just an old tranny on it's last legs.

From research I've done on TC, it seems that my clutches/steels are coming apart. The bits get sucked up into the filter, plug it up, and cause me to loose line pressure. I can go 5-10 miles, no problems. Further than that, I start to loose the gears, they come in at higher and higher RPM until I can't get them at all, 4th, then 3rd, etc. Eventually I've got no forward gears or reverse and things get really noisy, which I assume the is the pump. Once everything cools down, it's normal again, but then the symptoms repeat. Do I have this diagnosed right? Or am I missing something obvious, easy and cheap to fix?

I think it's time for a performance build. My 327 has Eddy RPM heads, cam, intake and carb. Not a bad package so I want something more than a "stock rebuild", but I don't need a super high dollar tranny capable of high HP (or at least that's the impression I have). This is a street car, I won't race. Comments?

I assume my new, or at least three year old low mileage, B&M torque converter is not re-useable as is. Is there some way to flush it? Thoughts?

What's the best way to flush my cooler and lines?

The donor truck was a 90* V-6, basically the 350 V-8 short two cylinders. So I have a V-8 style case, but are the internals comparable to a V-8 tranny, or are they like the 60* V-6?

My local tranny shop listened to my needs and is anxious to rebuild it, but won't give me a quote other than "probably more than $1000" for a stock rebuild. I figure that's a fair thing to say since old muscle cars are not his bread and butter. But I can mail order a TH700 with upgrades for less than that. Since there are several mail order places that specialize in performance and retrofit applications, that's what I'm tempted to do. I haven't shopped around Miami for a performance trans shop, know of any?

What upgrades are must haves, and for my application what can I live without? In other words, I'm willing to spend a good sum of money, but don't want to pay for features that won't add value.

I want to re-use my finned aluminum pan, lock-up wiring (built my own harness), and T/C if possible. Do you think mail order shops will accommodate me and quote "less offs" for these items?

Other thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

4t60e
Oct 18th, 06, 11:10 PM
trans is junk and needs rebuilt you definetly got your moneys worth out of that trans. The filter is clogging and that is what causes the lost of gears.
If you buy a trans make sure it comes with a rebuilt torque converter. You can use your wiring harness most likely because most late TH700 (87-93)
use a type 18 wiring harness.

4t60e
Oct 18th, 06, 11:17 PM
The converter if very low miles can be drilled and flushed by your local trans shop. Best way to flush cooler lines is to pull radiator and have local trans shop flush on there machine, however you can flush with a can of cooler flush and compressed air. Make sure you have good flow both directions through cooler. Paul

zeke67
Oct 18th, 06, 11:25 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. Do you think I could flush the lines/cooler by rigging my parts washer to it and run a bunch of solvent through it to ensure the trash is out. Then compressed air, then cooler flush, then air and be good to go? Who sells the cooler flush?

zeke67
Oct 19th, 06, 4:45 PM
ttt, anyone else?

christoforos kokkonis
Oct 19th, 06, 6:59 PM
solvent will destroy the converter clutch

zeke67
Oct 19th, 06, 8:30 PM
solvent will destroy the converter clutch

So does that mean don't flush my lines that way at all, or just ensure I get the solvent flushed out?

jay
Oct 19th, 06, 10:31 PM
Use the flush in a can and then blow it out with air.If the pan has too much metal just replace the cooler and the lines.

4t60e
Oct 20th, 06, 6:56 PM
Flushing the cooler lines with solvent from the parts washer is perfectly fine as long as you blow the solvent out of the lines completely. Solvent
will not destroy the converter clutch. Water however will destroy all the clutches in the trans including the converter clutch. It is very important
to make sure you have good flow of solvent both directions through the cooler lines. If you still want the cooler flush can it can be bought at your local parts store or trans shop. However if you use the solvent you do not
need the flush in the can. Paul

zeke67
Oct 22nd, 06, 8:36 PM
Thanks for the advice so far, it's helped a lot.

Can anyone comment on the case that I have: V-8 housing from a V-6 truck. Is it V-6 "level" of internals or is it rebuildable for what I want to do?

What "HP level" should I be discussing with vendors, since there is such an range across the price/quality spectrum. (My original post details motor and usage)?